tww

I think the seller either doesn't know the difference between the old 18-55 and the new 18-55 IS, or he's trying to con you into selling the 18-55 IS for the same price as the non-IS. The going price for the 18-55 IS is about 5500 Baht or USD 150 or so.

Hmm, three weeks ago I went to buy some stuff at a local shop and they let me handle a 1Ds mkIII. The guys at the shop told me that I was one of the first people to touch it since they had just gotten it. I had no idea it's not yet released.

 

Their review is here: http://www.fotofile.net/news.php?n_id=235

The jpeg and RAW settings are independent of each other. e.g., you don't set the same amount of sharpness from the jpeg or RAW using the same sharpness (or any other) setting. So the jpeg+RAW option is really pointless since you end up with two different images.

 

Other RAW converters ignore in-camera settings, so there's even less comparison possible.

There is a Canon A530/A540 recall regarding battery issues. Could that have been the problem?

The XT uses different firmware from the Kiss Digital N (and the 350D), but the firmware are always released on the same day, since the cameras are identical in every way except the name. (The name is stored in the EXIF data.)

 

Why get an XT? Local warranty maybe?

 

(I have a 30D and a Kiss Digital X.)

More pixels doesn't always mean more noise though. I believe the FX07's LCD screen is better than FX01's.

Shouldn't you ask her and/or shop together? How much interest in photography does she have? Is a DSLR with a big heavy lens what she really wants?

Actually, those websites that document counterfeit cards, even eBay's own, are often not that accurate. eBay says one of the easiest ways is to tell by the packaging and the stickers, but that might only tell you if the card is a gray market or parallel import card. The packaging that eBay says definitely shows that if a Sandisk card is fake is the EXACT type of packaging that Sandisk uses in my country.

 

And as a result of people in my country translating those English websites into our language, and then the "real fake" cards sold here are the type with American packaging. It proves you can't tell a thing from the packaging.

I have one for digital: always check ISO/WB before shooting.

I just want to add that my D70 was out of the box that way. I have the gridlines turned on so I've learned to rotate the camera a bit when I need to have something perfectly aligned.

Hmm, on the IExif page it says supports Firefox 0.7-3.0. Works fine with 2.0.0.1 for me.

What's the problem with Opanda IExif? Or is there more than one version of Opanda's EXIF viewer? I use Firefox 2.0.0.1 and I don't seem to have any problems?

The A530 is one of the few compact cameras that has an M mode. No Av or Tv modes, just P, M, and full auto.

Most widescreen monitors are 16:10 ratio and widescreen TV's are 16:9. Of course, an LCD monitor would have fixed number of pixels, e.g. 1600x1024, so you need to set your computer to display exactly that to get an undistorted image.

 

Sidenote: some larger monitors are no longer exactly 4:3 ratio, but still have square pixels. e.g. 1280x1024 is not 4:3

Also, some filters might claim to be multicoated, but are only coated on one side. Some of the newer "for digital" filters are often coated on both sides.

I don't know about the EOS 5/A2, but when I had a Nikon D70, I had a LOT of trouble metering with a polarizer. No such problems with my 30D now, but I have a different polarizer too. Both are Hoya circular, but the one I use on the 30D is a Hoya PRO1 77mm, while the previous one was a regular uncoated Hoya 72mm. I don't know if it's because of the coating, or the different lenses (kit lens vs. L lenses), or if it's the camera itself that's making the difference...

Wherever you keep your stuff, be sure you can actually get to them when you need them. Recently I shot a wedding in a home, so I borrowed an empty guest room to keep my gear. But when I actually needed something, I found out the room was locked by accident and there was no key! Luckily the guest room was on the first floor.

Both the SD800 IS and SD700 IS are good cameras. The difference is the SD800 IS has 28 mm wide angle and face detect, and more megapixels. They also have optical (lens shifting) image stabilization.

The S2 IS only has a slip-on lens cap since the lens has no threads. You need to get either Canon's own adapter (58 mm) or the Lensmate adapter (52 or 58 mm), then you can use regular UV filters or clip-on caps.

However, on some cameras, the playback view needs to finish loading the entire image before you can scroll to the next one, so a faster card makes a huge difference if you're often reviewing images on the camera. (I only use Kingston and Sandisk too, after all my Lexars stopped working.)

ProShow's DVD burning / ISO creation depends a lot on your computer speed. So you need to make sure your images and music are all accessible on a fast/local drive, disable all screensavers and background tasks, and don't use the computer while it's creating your show.

The exact same thing happened to me a few days ago. I have a Lexar Professional 80X that I've been using with Nikons for almost 2 years. It's on the Lexar recall list but Lexar only said to exchange it for certain older Canon cameras. Since I was using Nikon I never bothered to exchange it eventhough occasionally the card doens't get detected when I put it in a camera, I would just take the card out and re-insert. And I wrongly thought that future Canons would not have a problem with it.

 

Anyway, I got a 30D recently and I not just lost a whole card of images by the "busy" message then camera locking up, the card also would not work any more even when I put it in a card reader. Now Windows just shows an error if I try to access the card.

 

I'm also never buying Lexar again. Now I have some Kingston Elite Pro cards that work perfectly.