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jo_o_m_rio_carreira

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Posts posted by jo_o_m_rio_carreira

  1. Hi. Last answer is correct IMHO.

    I also suggest to visit the blog strobist (make a Google search).

    You'll see lots of suggestions to use your flash off camera.

    For example one option is to use the called "eBay triggers".

    Is a small and cheap wireless trigger (to put on the hotshoe or pc connection) and receiver (you must have the right connection to your 283). Cheaper than the safesync, it's wireless (so you can put your flash anywhere - 100 feet) and you'll improve your pictures a lot - see the blog.

    Best regards

  2. Hi guys.

    I bought a few weeks a Promaster 7000M Minolta (Film) dedicated.

    I tested the unit and after a few shots the unit stop working. The unit charges

    and the ready light stays on. The test button makes no difference.

    I don't know if the problem is the wireless mode because after this mode is

    activated the unit only fires if the camera says so.

    I really think the problem is there. For a reason that I don't know the flash

    unit is blocked by the wireless mode but waiting to be fired by the normal

    (shoe) way.

    If someone has a solution for this please contribute with an answer or mail me.

    This unit is similar to Centon fg105d ans as far as I know the problem can also

    occur.

    Thanks

  3. Hi guys.

    I've bought a few weeks a Promaster 7000M Minolta (Film) dedicated.

    I tested the unit and after a few shots the unit stop working.

    The unit charges and the ready light stays on.

    The test button makes no difference.

    I don't know if the problem is the wireless mode because after this mode is

    activated the unit only fires if the camera says so.

    I really think the problem is there.

    For a reason that I don't know the flash unit is blocked by the wireless mode

    but waiting to be fired by the normal (shoe) way.

  4. Thanks for all answers. <br>

    I forgot to tell that I want a system that can work with digital, or in other words, a system that could handle with the preflash from the digital cameras. <br>

    A few months ago I didn't knew how flash works with digital.

    <br>I used with digital the same optical slaves I used with film but the digital pictures came worst than without the optical slaves.

    <br> The radio triggers only fires the flash when the transmitter says "do it"

  5. Hi.<br />

    I own a set of 5 radio triggers (gadgetinfinity & virtualvillage). <br />

    I managed to put them working with my digital camera with 2 small flash units

    from Promaster with low voltage. But now I want to try with Vivitar 283/285.

    <br />

    Some of the units have slow voltage (10 to 20v) but one of them has more than

    300v and other, sometimes, shows a multimeter reading of 700v. <br />

    My questions: <br />

    1 - It's safe to connect the radio slaves directly to the high voltage Vivitars

    I own? <br />

    2 - Does the radio slaves suffer the same problem of the hotshoe of digital

    cameras? (making them to "break" with the high voltage when the flash

    fires?) <br />

    3 - What is the procedure to know if I can connect the radio slaves directly to

    the hotshoe of any flash (value of safe voltage of the flash?)? <br />

    Thanks

  6. Hi. I'm also interested in learning more about this question.

    Can anyone explain in more detail how can we check the batteries?

    I had a 18 EUR set of 4 energizer and they are death.

    When I saw that something should be wrong I continued to charge and discharge the all set.

    As far I can understand (after reading above) I destroyed the good batteries in that set.

    I have a multimeter.

    Thanks

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