doug_nelson3

<p>Canon went to some R&D expense to bring out a truly compact Rebel body. The 40mm would be perfect to carry on an SL1, but that focal length is only of limited usefulness on crop sensor. C'mom, Canon, how about an 18mm, which would crop to a useful semi-wide on APS-C? For now, my Pentax K-r with its 21mm is my crop sensor carry-along. It is a fine little coat-pocketable SLR.</p>

<p>Michael,<br>

I was able to save the video with edits using the slrlounge procedures. I don't know whether doing the Preset part had anything to do with it. I would rather save as Original, but the edits won't export. Original wouldn't be an option if it wasn't supposed to work. Original will pay back on my TV using the camera as a playback device. The other formats don't work for this.<br>

Thank you</p>

 

<p>Mr Chang<br>

Not blowin' off your kind help, I just have to find the time to work slowly through this. I find LR4 so frustrating in so many ways that I have to walk away from it and come back when I feel strong enough for more punishment . . .</p>

<p>I was delighted to find that I can trim the ends and even adjust brightness with HD video shot with my Canon S95. I do my edits in LR4, then export them to the same file, only to find that all my editing work was for nothing. It is as if they were never touched. I AM choosing the export them as video and as MOV files. I am trying to play them back after export with Quicktime (a very recent download).<br>

I very much miss a "Save" function in LR. When I export, I am never sure whether I am exporting the edits I made.</p>

<p>Thanks to all for your help. The K-r is being sent to Pentax service.</p>

<p>Anirban,<br>

Do you have to disassemble the camera, or do you spray or drip the stuff inside? This doesn't bode well for Pentax. The same problem is unaddressed since the DS's. Seems like poor design. What might I expect from the K5?<br>

I registered it on line when I bought it, but can't find the printout. Will arrange to have it repaired.</p>

<p>After less than a year the control wheel (not the correct term) on my K-r is going wildly erratic. Using it to zoom in and out in the Playback mode gets sudden maximum magnification and will not back out of the image. I have to give up and turn Playback off and go back into Playback .For setting aperture, it is erratic in the same way, not allowing wide apertures without endless fiddling and trying it again and again.<br>

It seems Pentax service does not answer emails. If Pentax cannot/won't resolve this, I'll look at the K5. I find no fault with the DA 21 and the DA 70, and will do what I can to keep them. Pentax service been OK for you folks?</p>

<p>Alan,<br>

Thank you. This is about the best and most complete answer I could have hoped for.<br>

Doug</p>

<p>Having seen the difference between HD and smaller video formats, I want to shoot only HD. Until I upgrade my XP computer to 64-bit Win 7, a lot of RAM and a faster video card, I am willing to keep my videos on the card, playing them back via HDMI cable on HD TV using as a playback device the Canon S95 or Canon 5DII they were shot with. Aside from the impracticality of tying up an expensive fast card that I dedicate to video, do you see any problem with this temporary approach? If playback of HD video is problematic with a computer that's not up to the job, is simple editing possible, such as cutting from the beginning and end?</p>

<p>I like the distortion correction feature on my K-r 's jpg's. It's great for instant correction of distortion on my DA 21 shots. The jpg can serve as a guide for distortion correction of my RAW's. Can I count on it for correction of the mild barrel distortion of the FA 35mm f2? Has the correction been programmed in for a lens that old? I've yet to see any barrel from that 35 that's worth the worry, but just wondering.</p>

<p>In case one of you gets a case of dumb as I did; I had forgotten that the shots in question were RAW's, w/ no accompanying jpgs. I had forgotten that my card reader doesn't pick these up. I have to treat the card reader as just another drive and drag and drop them over. Sheesh. It's not the K-r, the card or even the reader, it's ME.</p>

<p>I shot a nice landscape sequence over the weekend, only to have them not show up on the card when I got it home. I shot a birthday party on the same card; they are fine. The landscapes I shot earlier on the same card are gone. I remember the day being very damp with intermittent rain. I also remember reviewing some of the pics. I don't think the fault is with my K-r. Beware these cheap off-brand cards. This one is an 8 GB Patriot, frequently on sale at electronics store like Fry's.</p>

<p>An inexpensive Pentax screw-to-K adapter will open up the 100mm f4 SMC to you. You will have the same manual focus and metering issues as your M, but you may be able to find it cheaper. Mine was about $75. I don't think you can go wrong with any macro in that 90-100mm range.</p>

<p>ALthough I love the 35mm focal length, and use a Leica 35 f2, with all its inconveniences on a 5D2, I bought the EF 35 f2. If I need really great edges and corners, I use the Leica. I got the EF 35 because I had too many family shots and fun stuff that, although not critically important, needed autofocus. I found manual focus for quick shots, even w Live View, too cumbersome. For light carry, it's unbeatable.</p>

<p>If compact carry is as important to you as it is to me, consider the semi-wide crop sensor coverage of the EF 24 f 2.8. See<br /><a href="http://www.16-9.net/lens_tests/24mmcup/pentax/24mm_groupc1.html">http://www.16-9.net/lens_tests/24mmcup/pentax/24mm_groupc1.html</a> to see how it stacks up against some other 24's. It's not a bad lens; it's just that some others are better. This test measures full-frame corner performance. Crop-sensor should be considerably better at the edges and corners. Or, consider, eventually a prime kit of an EF 24, an EF 35 f2, and a 50 macro. Shopping carefully, you might get all three for $700.</p>

<p>My non-pro version Fotodiox adapter works fine. Any decent adapter puts the lens at exactly the proper registration distance. That's all they do, actually, because you set your camera to read the light through your shooting aperture in the AV or manual mode. I use a 28mm f 2.8 AI, and like it, but the AIS version is more highly regarded and reported to have no or nearly no barrel distortion. The 24mm f 2.8 AIS is a classic favorite. The f2 versions offer no advantage, as the 5D2 screen brightness is no more than f 2.8. For full frame use, I don't worry about focusing (particularly with a 24) and don't care about wide open performance. I set my 28 at f8 and my 24 at f 5.6, hyperfocal distances, and decide whether or not I need infinity to be in focus. Since many of us use manual focus for macro, old MF macro lenses work fine, and are far cheaper than AF versions.</p>

<p>Sorry, I misread your post. You said "only these two lenses". That's why you don't have many replies; it's too narrow a concern.</p>

<p>I like using a 35 prime as one of my two light carry primes. The EF 35 f2 is no slouch for family stuff, light carry and quick work, but in situations in which I want the best image quality, your 35 L is tops (in the centers) and my Leica R 35 f2 delivers great corners at mid apertures, if not the centers of your L. None of these 35's is bad wide open. My second choice is the 85 f 1.8. Again, your 135 L has better bokeh, but my 85 is lighter, smaller and cheaper. The 5D2 and both lenses carry well in a Mountainsmith fanny pack (using the shoulder strap). You have the best in IQ, and, if you don't mind the weight and the cost, go with what ya got.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.camerarepairjapan.com">www.camerarepairjapan.com</a> in Atlanta, GA did a great job on my F-1N but it was in 2002. Get it fixed if you can and enjoy it for the rest of your life.</p>

<p>OK, guys, I get it. I pick up an EF 35 f2 from the C-list at lunch today. </p>

<p>If sharp corners and edges are important to you, consider enduring the pain and inconvenience of old manual focus wides via adapters. I like the Olympus OM 24mm f 2.8 and the Nikkor 28mm f 2.8 AIS. Both are cheap, very compact and light. See <a href="http://www.16-9.net/lens_tests/24mmcup/pentax/24mm_groupc1.html">http://www.16-9.net/lens_tests/24mmcup/pentax/24mm_groupc1.html</a> Check around in this site for other MF wides. Be careful on the Contax 28 f2.8. There are known mirror clearance issues. Consider also the old Frankenstein lug Leica R 28. Th newer megabucks 28R with the built-in hood is sharper at wider apertures and is said to be distortion-free.<br>

Informed opinion here at pnet is leading me to get my hands on an EF 35 f2. It is reviewed on the Canon full frame page at www. photozone.de and it seems to hold its own vs. the 35 settings of the L zooms.</p>

<p>Is the Leica M mug a shot glass?</p>

<p>Amazon' comments have some entries about this, also. For incandescent light, I am usually in family gathering wide-angle situations in which I just trust the depth-of-field to take care of business. However, if I did weddings or other events professionally, I would be much more concerned. I don't think the K20d I passed on to my son had this problem.<br>

Sorry to sound harsh here, but Pentax will continue to be a backwater until they get their QC act together and take care of likely uses of the product in design. Tamron and Tokina still do not see fit to offer some very desirable lenses in the Pentax configuration. I love my K-r and DA21/DA70 for easy-carry outdoor fun, but see no reason to invest more in Pentax gear. My Canon gear I use for more serious work was made possible only because of a lump sum disability windfall. But I would much rather have my health.</p>

<p>If price is a consideration, the Canon S95 can be had for $300 or less as it's being closed out. I went this route because I couldn't see $129 more for the S100.</p>

<p>The little Fotodiox release catch for removing the adapter from the lens is clunky, but the other-than-Pro Fotodiox adapter is so cheap, you can put one on each Nikkor you want to adapt. I see no need for a chip, as I use hyperfocal settings with wide-angles. So why would anyone want to use Nikkors on EOS? How about the 24 f 2.8 AIS, or the 28 f 2.8 AIS (as distortion-free as wides get)? Some inconvenience with focusing is, for me, a trade-off for having to shell out $1,500 for an L 24, or finding your wide-angle sweet spot in one of the huge L zooms. I am not a pro, so I can take the time to play with focus. Actually Steve didn't say what Nikkors he's planning on using.</p>