isaul_vargas

I am not 100% certain about this, but under Windows XP Service Pack 2, if you install the Color control panel applet from Microsoft's Pro Photography website, it does enable ICC awareness for both Windows Explorer and Windows Image and Fax Viewer. The uncertainty is whether or not the Color applet adds this support or XP has had this level of support for a while.

I have tested this extensively, and I have found that the JPEG preview of Windows Explorer uses embedded profiles.

Windows Image Fax and Viewer only uses embedded profiles that are listed in the system color directory. So if you have an image with an unusual ICC profile that's not in your system32/.../color directory, it will look wrong in Image and Fax Viewer but correctly in Windows Explorer.

However, Internet Explorer is not ICC aware, and neither is any alternative web browser available for Windows. ( I am thinking of writing a plugin for IE, Firefox, and Opera, if I feel up to learning the Windows API) So you have to convert sRGB for the web.

I noticed from the snapshot, you have a dual monitor setup.

If you have an AGP video card, only one monitor profile will be active (unless you have drivers that specifically support two separate display profiles for each display and not many consumer cards do).

Any PCI-Express card should work fine as far as monitor profiles with dual connections, since Windows sees two video cards.

Also get a Colorimeter ASAP. You will be pleased with the improvement in the picture.

I would only consider a high end card if you plan to do these things:

1) Plan to use Windows Vista or Mac OS X Leopard

2) Buy a high end LCD that has 10 bit or higher support.

3) Will get Photoshop CS3 immediately, since it is planned to use video card acceleration for some functions.

The only real concern today is dual displays. PCIe cards allow you to have two different monitor profiles active in Windows (this is not an issue on Mac OS X). AGP cards depend on good drivers for proper dual monitor support of ICC profiles.

A high end card is only good for gaming or 3d rendering.

On the Adobe forums, many users report success running Photoshop CS2 in Windows XP 64 bit.

Dell recommends against Windows XP 64 bit because many hardware devices don't have the drivers for Windows XP 64 for usage.

Fortuantely, Photoshop CS2 works in XP64 and if you have an EyeOne Display II, the software also works natively in XP64.

You should go into your bios and verify that you have 4GB of Physical RAM. The reason why you see a lot less RAM is because of your SLI set up. Each device connected takes up address space, so that's why you are seeing 2GB of RAM in Windows (though typically a fully decked out system should have about 3GB of RAM available to the OS).

Since the Core Duo 2 is 64 bit, you should consider running Windows XP 64 bit for better memory management.

As of now, Sony is pulling out the PC LCD market to concentrate on consumer LCD TV technology.

So, look at other companies like NEC, et al.

There should be no difference between both OS's since they both use ICM 2.1.

However video output does differ from OSes and drivers, so it's a good idea to recalibrate your monitor.

It's hard to save money when you build your own. If you really want a workhorse, get a MacPro and use bootcamp to dualboot to Windows XP.

Otherwise look at a Dell Precision workstation. You'll save money by going with a big manufacturer than building your own, unless you already have parts to use from previous purchases.

I own his Photoshop Lab book, so perhaps I will look in there and write to him.

Thanks.

Although, I've read a few books on color management, one thing that's not

explained in a lot of depth is the relationship between luminance (a

qualitative measurement that measures the actual photons hitting your eye) and

lightness (a relative measurement of brightness between two subjects)

For example, if you set a CRT to a luminance of 85 nits, what you're seeing is

a light level that isn't as bright as a halogen lamp; or a sunlit day in an

area that is full of bright objects (like white sand). The perceived colors

you see is not the same as when there's a difference in luminance intensity.

So what's the relationship between luminance and lightness?

Until Windows XP was released, the Macintosh was the preferred platform since it already had a huge market share in the creative segment.

However, the reality is that Windows makes up about 90% of the market, and it would be foolish if companies don't tap into that huge market.

My opinion, a Mac Pro would be a good choice. It runs both Mac OS X and Windows, and it has the best hardware (Intel Xeons with up to 32GB of headroom).

Your system is fine for now and the near future.

If all you have is a JPEG, you can try an artistic fix.

If you have Photoshop, go into the Lab Mode, and use the color picker and sample a color that is near the blown out white.

Then create a new layer, and paint in that color over the white part.

Then switch back to sRGB mode.

This will let you fix a part of the highlights. The rest will take very careful work to fix.

I recommend that whatever book you get, you practice, practice, practice!

I have read a lot of Photoshop books, and although I've learned a lot, it's by following the tutorials and examples do I understand and get a feel for whats really going on.

The Spyder is good enough for the casual user, the Eye One Display 2 has better software is THE colorimeter for now. Some people feel that the Spyder is a bit weak in the reds or overall saturation. Nevertheless, it's better than an uncalibrated monitor. You can't go wrong either way.

I would recommend the Optix as another alternative, but it's being discontinued which is bad news for Optix owners (which includes me).

>>>I tried Adobe Gamma last night to see the different when using Color Applet. Basically, i created two profiles. When i viewed picture, i dragged the picture from LCD 1 to LCD2 and vice versa, and i could see the color changing.

Once again, Adobe Gamma is not that good with LCDs. But if it does make a difference, create a grayscale gradient in Photoshop in sRGB and soft proof it to Monitor RGB. The gradient should be all gray without any weird color casts.

Some LCDs are pretty color accurate without calibration, but some show dark colors brightly. LCDs tend to be poor with gray scale images though and images with very light gray. For example, if I had to scan a white document on my cheap scanner, I may not be able to see the light gray that my scanner introduces. I can use Levels to bring the white document to a pure white, but if I am doing it by eye, I may stop at a light gray.

>>>I guess if i don't modify the loader in startup menu, i will have to run color applet once the XP boots up.

If you're using Adobe Gamma, leave it as it is. Once you get an EyeOne, to delete Adobe Gamma from start up ( I would move the file somewhere) is to right click the start tab and go to Explore or Properties. This would let you navigate the Programs menu.

>>I'll get calibration tool when i have enough fun. For now, i will use Adobe Gamma (try my best) to do calibration.

To reiterate, Adobe Gamma works best on monitors. It doesn't work too well for LCDs, since LCDs don't have the same level of adjustments as CRTs. You usually calibrate to the native white point of LCD (which is in effect not using Adobe Gamma).

2> For room lightning, I would like to get correct light (ambient light) in the room and it must be constant before i do calibration. Do you have any suggestion for desk lamp to get ? or any desk lamp will be fine?

Most of the literature recommends, a Solux light bulb which has a Correlated Color Temperature of 4700 Kelvin, which is pretty close to the 5000 kelvin recommended for viewing photos and art to match the screen.

I would recommend buying a copy of Andrew Rodney's book, or Real World Color Management.

I like Andrew's book because it has a tutorial section explaining a lot of the concepts. RWC is also a good book to since it goes into a lot of depth into the color theory. I really like how they explain the concept of metamerism correctly. It also has a lot of guides on verifying your profile.

To get an Eye One Display 2, check out www.ebay.com or www.colorhq.com or www.colormall.com

You can probably pick one up for about 220 dollars, less on Ebay if you bid well. X-Rite has a nationwide, 20 city color seminar, for 350 dollars you will get both an Eye One and a lesson in Color management. Go to http://www.graphintel.com/cwl/ and see the details.

Windows XP only loads a profile for color management, however it doesn't change the Look Up Tables of the video card. That's where the Eye One software comes one, it uses a LUT loader to change the video card colors to match the calibration. The Color applet can also load profiles to adjust the LUT, but don't bother, EyeOne already does it. Also make sure you remove Adobe Gamma from the StartUp menu. You only need one LUT loader.

The Color Control Panel applet lets you set the profiles for both monitors, so this shouldn't be an issue.

However, if you think it's not loading, try editing a monitor profile and make it look really bad. This way you can mess around with the color management settings and see if you can make it stick properly.

With LCDs, you really can't do visual calibration. Especially an LCD that is not really sold as a color accurate model.

The best thing to do is see if you can set the color temperature to 6500 Kelvin or sRGB. This will give you a white point that is not too blue or green.

Adobe Gamma is not suitable for LCDs and it's worth is questionable for CRTs.

I would save up for a X-Rite/Gretagmacbeth Eye-One Display 2 since the Monaco OptixXR will be discontinued. Also the Display 2 has an ambient light sensor, as well as better software that is constantly updated. It even works in Windows XP64.

When you do get a colorimeter, to match both LCDs, you should use the same settings for both, like the same white point, luminance, and black point.

EyeMatch supports dual displays, and to set the profiles for both displays may depend on your video card. Both ATi and nVidia card support different profiles, but ATi does a better job of it. Nevertheless you can use the Color Applet of XP to assign the different profiles.

I do not own that printer but based on what I read, you just need to tell the software you're going to switch inks and it will prep the inks so that you can remove the black ink cartridge. Then swap out the cartridge and then you should be set.

You will lose 1/3 of the total ink volume though (meaning that all your colors will lose a bit of ink)

So don't change inks often...

While what you see on screen may not match the print exactly, you can at least get a 4x6 image zoomed to be an actual 4 x 6 inches on your screen.

You will need either a tailor's tape measure, or a small ruler that you can comfortably place on your screen.

Using Photoshop, create a 100 pixel by 100 pixel canvas and fill it with white, at 100 pixels per inch.

Then using the Navigator palette or the zoom tool, zoom the image so that when you place the ruler on the screen, it measures 1 physical inch.

Suppose that the zoom level at which you get a physical inch is 87%. Enter Photoshop's preferences and go to Units and Rulers, and set the screen DPI to 87 dpi.

Now when you click on the Zoom tool, and click on Print Size on the tool bar (or alternatively click on the menu bar View -> Print Size) it will now accurately display a 4" x 6" image as being physically 4" x 6" on screen.

For those who have CRTs, your square should be a square at the center, and not a rectangle, or a trapezoidal shape. If not, mess with the geometry controls so it's a nice square in the center area.