danieljohansson

<p>Good point about the 1,3x crop Ilkka!<br>

About the 60 fps, well even though the panning will look nice don't you think that it's better to stick with 30 fps because you will get shorter shutter speed and therefore lower ISO and less noise? </p>

<p>Thanks guys for all the answers and opinions =)<br>

Since in my example with the Nikon D750 and Nikon D7200 are from about the same generation of sensors and I believe both cameras use the whole sensor for recording video my assumptions seems to be correct. I don't need to get into tiny quality differences for this case, just the overall theory =). And of course there are other features that matters for video like the ability to adjust aperture without turning off live view, power aperture, auto focus, flip screen, bit rate etc etc. The important summery for me is that there is no major advantage in using a full frame sensor for video if you don't need a short depth of field. <br>

If you are curios what's this is all about it is for shooting real estate videos. No high end productions but we are using 3-axis gimbals and some other gadgets. We also shoot stills off course and I am using a Nikon D600 for myself and it works fine for these productions. Just a bit annoying that I have to turn off live view to change aperture in video mode, but that's not a deal breaker since I am not filming every day. </p>

<p>Hi!<br>

The difference between FX and DX is a topic that can puzzle any photographer, even me ;)<br>

In this case I want to figure out the exact difference in depth of field, noise etc and how it will effect the image for video in a low light situation? As an example I want to compare the Nikon D750 with the Nikon D7200 with a crop factor of 1,5.<br>

Of course you would think that the Nikon D7200 will give more noise in a low light circumstance but will it still be the case if you can adjust the aperture to get the same depth of field and lower the ISO? <br>

<br />Here is an example of two different gears and settings:<br>

Nikon D750<br />Focal length 24 mm<br />Shutter speed 1/50 s<br />Aperture f/8<br />ISO 3200<br>

<br />Nikon D7200<br />Focal length 16 mm <br />Shutter speed 1/50 s<br />Aperture f/5,6<br />ISO 1600</p>

<p>In my mind this would give the same result but is this correct or am I missing something...?<br>

Here are my simple calculations:<br>

24 mm = 16 mm for a DX sensor (24 / 1,5 = 16)<br />f/8 ≈ f/5,6 in depth of field for a DX sensor (more exactly it should be 8/1,5 = f/5,33<br />ISO 3200 ≈ ISO 1600 for a DX sensor (more exactly it should be 3200/1,5<em>^{<em>2 </em>}</em>= ISO 1422)</p>

<p>Will the footage look the same or will there be any difference in noise, brightness, depth of field, dynamic range etc? <br>

(sorry for any grammatical errors, I am not a native English speaker)<br>

Cheers!<br />//Daniel</p>

<p>Mr Bond, to explain my previous posting a bit more. You said you want a camera to grow with and don't want to change system in a short time. Then I believe the D300 or a D200 is a good choice because it allows you to do that. Because money is a concern and you need to save and you are a beginner I think a second hand D200 or D300 and the Sigma 17-70 would give you a very good start. You could take landscapes, interior, architectur, portrait, macros and lots of other shoots with this equipment only for a fairly small budget. Other equipments you feel that you need you can just add later when you can afford.<br>

Good luck!</p>

<p>I have a D200, bought it in 2006 before the D80 was released. I later said that I would have bought the D80 if it was on the market because of it is possible to take as good pictures with it but for less money. But now I am glad that I choose the D200 because I haven't felt that I have needed to change body yet (but I will probably do that next year for a D400). I have changed my set of lenses several times to fit my interest of shooting though. <br /> <br /> This in concern I would recommend you to buy a used D300 (or a D200), if camera equipments are taken care of well, they will last for many, many years so there is not really any good reason to buy new equipment if you aren’t a pro or money is not a concern. Someone said to aim for less than 1000 shutter activations. I don’t really agree because the D300 will last for around 150.000 shoots so it will probably not be something you need to worry about. <br /> Here is the list I would recommend:<br /> <br /> D300 (1400$) or a D200 (800$)<br /> Nikkor 28-85/3.5-4-5D or 28-105 3,5-4,5D (150$) Or a Sigma 17-70/2,8-4 (300$)<br /> Tokina AT-X 12-24/4 (500$)<br /> Sigma EX 50-150/2,8 (500$)<br /> Tripod (4-section) (100-300$)<br /> Remote control (20$)<br /> Backpack (150$)<br /> Flash (Nikon, Sigma, Dorr, Soligor, Metz… an external rotatable one with a bouncer) (200-400$)<br /> Memory card 8 or 16 gig (100-200$)<br /> <br /> And if you are into seascapes a Cokin P-system and a ND4 or ND8 filter and ND4 gradient filter. This will make you able to darken the sky and make longer exposure times. <br /> <br /> The standard zoomws are sharp and have 1:2 macro. The Tokina wide angle zoom is better then the similar Sigma and cheaper then Nikon original. The tele zoom is perfect for portraits and very nice to handle. The 4-section tripod is small and will be able to attach on your backpack without it being to much in the way. <br /> <br /> The only thing you might miss is more tele for taking bird photos but you could then get a 2x tele extender for the Sigma 50-150. And maybe a 1:1 macro, if that is so the Tamron AF SP 90/2,8 has got the best reviews.</p>

<p>This set will offer good value and you will be ready for almost any situation and the total price will be around 2500-4500$.</p>

<p>The prices are for used equipment in Sweden and may vary a bit in different countries.</p>

<p>Best of luck!<br /> /Daniel<br /> <br /> p.s sorry for my bad English</p>