daniel_banham

Hi,

my Mamiya c330 is only winding 10 exposures per role and some of

those overlap!!

is it easy to repair yourself or does it definately require an

expensive repair?

Whilst on the subject of ropey tlr's my older C3 will only wind on if

you fire the shutter twice each time!!! ( once with the lens cap on

before anyone thinks i always shoot double exposures...)...Anyone

come across this before?

thanks.

I'm a bit of a bargain hunter.

I found a Metz 45ct1 in a local second hand shop for £10 and have no

instruction and no bracket.

In 2 weeks time i'm taking photos ( or rather supervising! ) at my

own wedding and need to use this for fill in flash with my Mamiya

c330.

First question is how critical is it that the flash is not in line

with the lens to avoid any red eye ( is this a risk with fill in any

way?). I was thinking of strapping the flash upside down to the

centre column of my manfrotto tripod in the absence of a bracket but

that would put it directly in line with the lens although quite a way

below it.

Second question is how do i balance / control output with the metz to

achieve natural fill in flash? I've seen threads saying set it a

stop or two below the ambient reading.fine. how do i set it to do

this on this model?

Thanks in advance for your help, i know you'll appreciate i'm getting

a bit jumpy so close to the big day!!!

ps I know it suicidal doing our own photography but we've got the

equipment and no cash to pay someone else!!!

Hello everyone,

Iknow that this subject has been covered from various angles over the

years from the threads i looked at. I know from what i've read that

every type of meter seems to have a life of its own but if any of you

have the inclination to responmd I'd like to know if you think i've

bought a turkey...or not.

Recently I purchased a gossen lunasix f second hand. Its was

inconsistantly out from my pentax z1p camera meter by 4 to 5 stops so

i sent it back. I've now bought a oldstyle lunasix 3 and pointing at

the same bit of grey wall got the following compared to my camera...

camera f5.6 1/15 sec ( all metering modes gave same reading)

meter F5.6 1/60 sec ( reflective reading without cone)

meter F5.6 1/30 sec ( incident reading with cone )

meter F5.6 1/15 sec ( reflective reading with cone !! I was just

curious)

it seems to be fairly consistantly 2 stops out on reflected readings..

My question is... should i be surprised by this ,or should i just go

out and shoot some film and see what it looks like. Given that

there's not much wrong with the z1p exposures logic tells me 2 stops

is too much variance.

Also can you adjust the light meter caliberation? does any one have

an instruction book for this meter or know of website where it might

be found?

thanks in advance..

Hello everyone,

my c3 has developed a quirk........

it won't let me wind it on unless i take two photos.

Every time i take a shot i have to do another one with the lens cap

on before i can wind on. Now... i'm becoming used to this little

foible which is a bad thing cause i'll never get off my arse and fix

it.

my challenge to you is ...is there a homegrown remedy for this?

no names of American repair shops please...i'm a limey!

Thanks.

If it's anything like the chrome 80mm then there is no need to remove the lens elements as it doesn't give you any access to the iris except to the leaves themseleves....these shouldn't need lubricating.

It might be someone else's old lubrication clogging it up in the first place....or you might just have grit or metal shavings ( this was what happened to mine) from a mechanical problem....

you may have to lubricate if all else fails....i did in the end ( wd40 on a cotton bud)i found it helped flush out some of the grit on mine.

it seems a shame to mess with a black series lens but if its cheaper to buy a second lens than get a shop to repair it then what have you got to lose?

ps.removing the lens elements isn't a problem as long as you put them back the right way round and clean!

Another question while i'm about it....

i also have an 8omm chrome lens which is in trouble at present..

a) the aperture seletion lever has sheared away from the diaphram...i

know how this works and am confident it can be fixed fiarly easily.

b) the diaphram is completelty stuck...hence the reason the lever

sheared off! it started sticking half way if left unused then just

got worse until it teased me into exerting too much pressure.

c) in the course of my first foray into the lens i detached the flash

wire through general heavy handed oafishness, and...funnily enough

i'm not entirely sure where to solder it back to.

so....if any one can spare a moment to share their views on how to

free up diaphram, permanently re-attach the lever , and last but not

least, where to attach my flash wire, i'd be eternally gratful.

I'm sure after reading that your all going to say throw it away or

take it to a repair shop...but seeing as the cost of the repair would

outweigh the cost of another 2nd hand lens I'm quite happy to roll up

my shirt sleeves and have a go. Point me in the right direction and

wish me luck!!

HI,

I recently bought a cheap Mamiya chrome 135mm tlr lens.

I've noticed a touch of fogging on the taking lens and also a dent in

the filter ring i can't remove. The later is stopping me attaching

filters, the former i suspect won't critically affect the image

quality.

My question is "can i swop the taking lens and the viewing lens to

cure both problems? They can both be unscrewed easily enough and look

identical although i suspect one's coated and the other isn't(wishful

thinking perhaps)..what are the views of all you sage tlr fans?

I look forward to your responses, thanks for your time.

I , perhaps foolishly bought ac3 blind via mail order and it arrived in mint condition with the focussing screen

neatly split in two.

Inside it was ovious someone had already tried to replace/adjust it as it was being held in under the clips

with extra strips of roughgly cut glass to increase the tension on the screen.

What would the legions of tlr experts out there suggest I replace it with? Can you use any old piece of ground

glass? Could I cannibilise the screen from an available intergral screen for a later model?

Also...how whats the best way to caliberate it to ensure accurate focussing?

The first trannies I had printed up 8x8 from a recent trip to cuba showed what I thought was terrible

resolution but I suspect its actually the focussing that is out of whack. One of the pictures, of a car taken

head on with the camera on the ground, showed all the bumper area as fuzzy but one of the rear tyres

appeared to be pin sharp. Another landscape showed showed awful resolution shot on infinity but I guess it

could have been camera shake.

Given the age of this camera what sort of image quality can I expect from the old chrome 80mm lens?

Last question I promise....the flash wire became detached when I (succesfully) repaired the appeture leaves

which would stick solid and bow outwards when trying to change the setting. Does anyone have a technical

drawing showing were to solder it back on!