john_scott1

Shoot all my color on dslr, but for B/W I still shoot film. Just can't get the right look with PS. I also have taken advantage of the buyers market on film bodies. Just picked up an EOS 1 for $175. This is my car camera and is always loaded with Tri-X.

Kevin, I don't think the color of the body should affect your decision to buy. Puppy Face made a point in an earlier thread that digital sensors produce more noise when they are subjected to heat. A silver body will absorb less heat than a black body. Plus, it is whats inside that makes the image. Besides,the color kind of grows on you, I owned an Elan IIe before along with a 1n. The color of the body never made a decision on which camera I used,the shooting enviroment OTOH did. BTW, I drive a baby blue ex-police car and the color kind of grew on me, too.

With the "accuracy" of the Kiev Prism meters I think a better solution is a handheld meter. I have taken the batteries (3LR44s) out of both of mine and just use a little Vivitar meter I picked up at a camera show for about $5. With the time you waste getting the 2 lights on in the meter and, then transfering the information to the shutter speed and aperture combination, a handheld meter is much quicker.

Works great.I use one with a 620/420ez combo and a flip frame. No problems whatsoever.

Puppy Face, Could you please post the link where you found these manuals on Canon's website? I have been stumbling around there blindly looking for manuals in .pdf format. TIA, John

If you could find a trashed (swimmer, battery leakage,shorted, etc) EOS flash as long as it was made by Canon, with a good foot it is not that hard to swap. Just make sure you pay attention to where all the wires are connected . I did this on a 420ez myself and it works as good as new. Just scrounge the parts boxes at your favorite camera store andtry at local camera shows. good luck

I have a 24/2.8 and it is a great lens. It is almost permanently attached to my 1n for all types of shooting. That being said, hasn't this question been asked over and over and over an................. Please search the archives for answers to questions like this. Thanks

I don't know this combination in particular,but, I know that my mini soft box blocks the preflash on my 420ez and it will cause an over exposure. You might wanty to check and make sure your preflash is not blocked. Hope this isn't too far off base.

I have a 100-200A and shoot with it ocassionally (mounted on a 1n or one of the versions of the Elan).It is a push pull zoom with no ability to manually focus which can be a problem. Optically, my copy is very good and yes it is 4.5 through its entire range. I use mine mostly for portaits and static subjects so I can take time to find were it will focus.It might be made of plastic,but, it is heavy freakin' plastic and a metal lens mount to boot.I wouldn't use it for snapshots of the kids because sometimes it just does't lock focus. If the price was right <$50 i would consider it if you take into account its limitations. I have heard that in the bargain basement Canon zooms the 70-210/4 is a pretty good performer in a lens that is nearing 20 years old. Best of luck with your putting together a bargain system.

15 (1978). My high school photography class had 2 k1000s and 1 Yashica 124g to lend out. Everybody wanted to use the SLRs but I chose the 124g. I got to use the camera the whole semester while everyone else was using the k1000s a day at a time. Wish I could find another at a reasonable price.

Thank you all for your quick replies.

When I am looking at the (*) on the booster it is to the right of the

button when it is held vertically. Canon says you can use Lithium AAs

in this booster if the button is marked with a (*). My old PB E1 was

pretty worn cosmetically when I bought it so I don't know if it ever

had this marking. My new (used) one has this marking, but, it is to

the side and not on the button. Can I use Lithium AAs in this booster

without doing any harm to the camera. FWIW, I am trying to lighten an

EOS 1n without sacrificing advance and tracking speed. TIA, John

I would look for an old Vivitar 70-210 3.5 Series1 lens. Great bang for the buck and the prices are dropping for them on a major auction site. With this lens you don't lose your split image focusing.(It doesn't black out.)

I was wondering if the standard 50mm lens came without a metering

prong. Mine reads Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8. Just curious. Is it a different

optical design than the series E lens. As a side note, I got this

lens attached to a FM2n with a MD12 and an extra 28/2.8 at a state

surplus auction for $100.

Just got a new to me EOS 1n. I have been an EOS user since I bought

my first 620 new,but,the metering icon on this one is different than

any I have seen before. What are the metering patterns represented by,

(1) the little circle, (2) the big circle, (3) the little circle in

the big circle? I have a manual on the way but I was hoping that

someone could help me out until it got here. Thanks, John

OK Dan,this will only work if the release is still there. It looks like a little tab where the rewind knob is supposed to be. Get a paperclip and straighten it out. Next bend the end into an L shape that will fit down the hole where the rewind knob is supposed to be.( I have a crochet hook that I use for this procedure)Pull the tab towards the back of the camera and put the paperclip down in the hole. Fish around and you will find the catch that releases the back. Viola, The back will open. My advice is to take it to your local camera store though. They have a lot of experience doing this. Thats where I learned.

Just a quick note about a previous recommendation to buy a Non AI Series 1 70-210 zoom for your FM2n. DON'T DO IT. It will damage your metering linkage. Look for an AI version.