todd palmer

<p>OK, well some good ideas here. I certainly consider the 'leave it alone' approach valid. From a photographers point of view, it might even be preferrable. I tried the layer mask approach and here's what I got - not bad really. I did a little cloning so that I wouldn't have to crop too severely. Which do you prefer?</p><div></div>

<p>OK, well some good ideas here. I certainly consider the 'leave it alone' approach valid. From a photographers point of view, it might even be preferrable. I tried the layer mask approach and here's what I got - not bad really. I did a little cloning so that I wouldn't have to crop too severely. Which do you prefer?</p>

<p>Sorry, here's the picture.</p><div></div>

<p>I've got this shot of a lighthouse that I like. It's taken at 18mm, and so there is a noticeable perspective problem. I've got Photoshop Elements 6 and I've played around with the Transform, but they all wind up looking equally unnatural. Suggestions, please.</p>

<p>Wow. The B+W filters are $99 each while the variND is either $340 or $390 for the thin mount. Looks like I'm in for $400 either way.<br>

The cokin P solution is not cheap either however. The Lee grads are $80 each, so with 3 of those, I'm in for another $400. Isn't this a great hobby for the rich?</p>

<p>Good point about the grad ND's - rectangular would seem the way to go, with a circular it would be impossible to shift the transition point.<br>

Polarizer is all I am using for now. Is vignetting a problem when stacking one of the ND's with the polarizer? Is a polarizer possible in the Cokin holder?<br>

So in the end, my dilemma many not be an either/or situation - which as usual means more $ to do it right.<br>

Thanks Lilly. </p>

<p>I'm looking into ND filters as I explore waterfalls in the area. I gather I have 2 main choices. From what I gather from the earlier posts on the subject, here are the + and -'s of each; which leaves me still confused.<br>

Cokin or Lee type square filters & holder: seems simple, the holders are cheap enough and with a couple apaptors you can put them on any of your lenses. I've seen the comment that the Cokin filters are not truly neutral, Lee and B&W are better and Singh-Ray the most expensive. I've seen the comment that you don't really need the holder, but that is not a great amount of money, so I don't see the point.<br>

Singh-Ray VariND: Seems like a decent alternative. Buy the VariND in the largest size you need, buy some step up rings for your smaller lenses (any vignetting problems?) and you've got 1-8 stops of ND on any lens. The filter itself is quite expensive, but in terms of gear, this is less to lug around.<br>

I'd like to get this right as I realize either one leads me down a path - square or screw-in filters. My lenses to date are 52mm and 67mm, but I'm considering one at 77mm.<br>

Your thoughts, please.</p>

<p>Exactly the problem, unfortunately. I was thinking on location at 5PM. That would be 5.5 hours early. Now for the concert, that is of course way too late... Anyone have any suggestions?</p>

<p>I've been shooting fireworks for a couple of years in some of the surrounding towns like Worcester and Clinton. These have been great to figure out technique without having to deal with the big crowds. My plan this year is to do it at the big show in Boston. To avoid the huge crowds on the esplanade, my plan is to shoot from the Cambridge side of the river. This should also allow some nice skyline as a backdrop to the fireworks. I have 2 questions:<br>

1 - most importantly, does anyone have any advice on how early I'd have to be there to get a primo spot? Memorial Dr is certainly the place to be, but there's a sidewalk and railing at the edge. Assuming that I can't set up a tripod on the sidewalk itself, that potentially means people will file in at the last minute and get right in my way! If you've done this before, please describe your experience.<br>

2 - if one is to include some skyline background along with fireworks, it seems logical to focus and meter based on the background and then just open the shuttter and let the fireworks fall in wherever they do - will they be too bright with this method?<br>

Thanks all.</p>