jun_w

Having both the ST-E2 and several speedlites, I also agree with Glen in that 580Ex is the best solution for you. With it sitting atop the camera acting as a master, you can benefit from some much-needed catch-light in the subject's eye(read the manual for how), which would otherwise be difficult to obtain from side-lighting.

I feel heartened by all the latest responses to my post, including the beautifully drawn diagram shown above. As far as the three speedlites are concerned, they did fire at the same time(the two slaves were swivelled to leave their ETTL emitters facing the EX 580). The reading I took was incidental, in non-corded mode. I didn't expect the Minolta VI to perform so poorly. I did, however, get it more or less right by relying on the histogramme. Well, it may come to a matter of purely bad luck that I've bought a faulty product. Thanks again for the help.

Thanks, Ellis, for your interests in my question. Well, in the case of indoor studio shots, I used three Speedlites in a makeshift studio setup, with an EX580 mounted on the 5D hotshoe in master mode and the two 550EX mounted on light stands on slave mode. All three were set to manual. The sensor dome was swivelled to face the camera in non-corded mode and the incidental reading was taken. I placed the meter a few centimeters away from the subject's face. As for the outdoor shots, I did the reverse by metering off the subject's face at the same distance(perhaps too close?) at the ambient mode. Over-exposure was the rule when the meter reading was followed.

Thanks, Mark. Yes, I have the manual. But could you share some personal experience with me in using the unit?

I am new to hand-held meter. I bought a Minolta VI recently to be used chiefly

as a flash meter. But the reading seems to be grossly over-exposured. I took

the reading by facing the camera flash close to the object's face and the

result is always wrong. I tried the ambient lighting mode by taking a reading

off the object's face at about 10 cm outdoor, again, the value is too low,

resulting in over-exposure. Whare did I get it wrong? Thanks in advacne.

 

Jun

Thanks, Bob. The EX flashes would respond to the ST-E2 IR signals, which would in turn trigger off the optical slave. Am I right?

To give a second life to my old favouite flash after buying a 5D, I am

thinking of buying an optical slave trigger in order to use 540EZ as a slave.

I will control it as well as an 550EX and 420EX with a ST-E2. I understand

that 540EZ should be set in manual mode for it to work properly and for that

matter the other two flashes should perhaps also be set in manual mode. But I

am not sure if it will obey ST-E2, since the latter seems to work only on ETTL

mode.

 

Any input from fellow forum contributors would be greatly appreciated.

Wega2

www.photo-freeware.net/wega2.php

I wonder what it means exactly the description of auto zoom coverage being

between 24-105. What about using a zoom above 105mm? Does the absence of the

indication of zoom range on the back LCD panel mean that photos risk

incorrectly exposed with 580?

 

Thanks in advance for your answers.

Brand wars again.

Yes, did you? It happened to me once.

Get 14EX and use it as master unit to control another external Speedlite as source of filling light.

The dust is a real problem. I've used the camera for 7 months and have to use a blower everytime a lens is changed.

Thanks for your quick answers. I just want to do a head and shoulder portrait, nothing more. I'll try both solutions.

I use a ST-E2 to control a Speedlite 580EX and 550EX mounted on light stands

under light umbrellas. It seemsthat the lighting is not strong enough and the

resulting images are not entirely satisfactory. I once read Susan McCartney

writing about the advantage of binding two flashes to a light stand to have

more power. I find the idea appealing and easy to implement. But the trouble

is I haven't found any light stand which provides space for two hot shoes. The

one she mentioned was concocted by herself. Does anyone know if such a stand

exists in the market? Thanks in advance.

If money is no object, go for the 24EX. But I'm quite content with my 14EX. The extra lighting source(sometimes more than one)can come readily from a 580EX used as slave.

Well, while the presence of a built-in flash can be handy in some situations, it comes at the expense of a bigger prism. Look at 5D or better still the 1Ds, where a big prism gives you 100% view in the viewfinder. Besides, the low guide no. of the built-in flash plus its low position do not make it a very useful flash for serious purpose. I've got used to doing without it. After all, packing a 580EX along with a pro-body and a couple of lenses does not add much extra weight, does it?

 

As for the 5D, ...other than the full frame, well, full frame is all that matters. IQ will show what this means.

Did the upgrading a few months ago when I bought 5D. Well, 580EX has a more sexy and slim look and works impeccably well. Just a feeling, though, nothing concrete in terms of output to prove its superiority to 550EX. Well, there is one thing. It has a built-in white panel for creating catchlight, which is a highly welcome addition for portrait photography. If money is no object, just add the 580EX to your flash collection. You can't have too many flashes if you want to set up a mini-studio lighting system.

No man-made mechanism is 100 % foolproof. 5D is no exception. You are perhaps just unlucky. Where did you buy it? I still have total confidence on mine after shooting thousands of pics in 6 months.

Nothing beats a quality zoom like 24-105mm when on the move.

On testing a 70-300mm IS DO lens the other day, I was surprised to hear a slight

buzzing sound when the mechanism was activated. On my 24-105mm IS, there is no

such an audible noise. Is this normal or was I testing a defective DO lens?

Why not make use of your trip to HK and upgrade? Camera prices are quite attractive there. Try a 5D and you will soon happily forget about your 300D

Right, having used both myself, I also agree that the former has superior performance, but the photo comparison you posted is not exactly fair, as the testing conditions are visibly different.

Exactly how do you do it, Alistair?

A big thanks to Peter for the lens test chart. How to use it?