littlemike
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Posts posted by littlemike
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<p>Thanks, Joseph. These are halogen lamps? Like 500W? Those would be too bright and hot. I'm looking more in the 100W - 200W range and with regular incandescent bulbs. I'm thinking more along the lines of this: <a href="http://www.adorama.com/LLL210.html">http://www.adorama.com/LLL210.html</a> but less-expensive, if that's possible. </p>
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<p>I need an incandescent (tungsten) lamp to light still lifes for painting. Ideally it would use standard medium-base bulbs up to 200W, have about a 6'' reflector, and have barn doors. I have a lighting stand. Recommendations? </p>
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<p>Ah. Operator error.</p>
<p>I'll need to tinker with how the camera operates with MLU enabled. I was using the self-timer the other night. It probably "presses the shutter" twice, as you suggest: once to lift the mirror, then again 2 seconds later to fire the shutter. </p>
<p>Thanks, everyone. </p>
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<p>Thanks, that was it. But I am puzzled as to why, with mirror lockup enabled, the camera only does 30 second exposures this morning despite my shutter speed setting (M mode). </p>
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<p>I was doing some long exposures downtown last night. 30 second kind of stuff. Self-timer, mirror lockup selected. <br>
Today I want to take some snapshots of the grandkids. But the darn camera seems to be stuck in some weird mode. No matter how I set the programming mode (Green Box, P, Av, Tv, M) or however I set the shutter speed or aperture, it wants to take a 30-second exposure after which it does not display an image and none has been saved to the card. </p>
<p>For example: M mode, 1/30th sec, f2.8, single-shot drive mode. Press shutter button, shutter opens and stays open for 30 seconds, closes, no image shown on screen or recorded to card. </p>
<p>I've removed and reinstalled the battery and am running out of ideas how to get this thing to act normally.</p>
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<p>Hi Patrick, <br>
Are you using a gradient fill, like a cyan fill? I'm hoping to composit in natural skies with clouds and stuff.</p>
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<p>Apologies for the double-post. I have no idea what happened. Time for another cup of coffee . . . </p>
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<p>I'm doing some photography for local real estate agents, often using HDR or exposure blending. For the exterior shots, I can't always count on the kind of pretty blue skies that I'd like and I'm struggling with replacing the sky, as shot, with some other sky shots (blue skies, puffy clouds -- you know, postcard skies) that I've taken. </p>
<p>Trees and foliage are giving me trouble. I can't seem to find a way to select sky (or non-sky) stuff cleanly enough to avoid outlines or odd artifacts around branches and leaves when I try to composit the fake sky into where the original sky was. </p>
<p>Anyone here an old hand at this can offer a tip or two? I'm familiar with working with layers.</p>
<p>RAW, Lightroom, Photomatix, CS3. </p>
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<p>I'm doing some photography for local real estate agents, often using HDR or exposure blending. For the exterior shots, I can't always count on the kind of pretty blue skies that I'd like and I'm struggling with replacing the sky, as shot, with some other sky shots (blue skies, puffy clouds -- you know, postcard skies) that I've taken. </p>
<p>Trees and foliage are giving me trouble. I can't seem to find a way to select sky (or non-sky) stuff cleanly enough to avoid outlines or odd artifacts around branches and leaves when I try to composit the fake sky into where the original sky was. </p>
<p>Anyone here an old hand at this can offer a tip or two? I'm familiar with working with layers.</p>
<p>RAW, Lightroom, Photomatix, CS3. </p>
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It is about three years old, I guess. Thanks, time to replace then.
Who's the good vendor with the good prices on these batteries?
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I have a Canon branded BP-511A which both chargers declare to be almost always
fully-charged when I put it in them, yet my 20D always claims is nearly fully
discharged whenever I try to shoot with it. I'll get about two shots before the
camera shuts down with an "empty battery" indication. How can the camera hate
this battery while the chargers like it?
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Mike RJS
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Thanks, everyone -- the Lowepro looks entirely too paramilitary for me. The fisherman's vest idea seems perfect for my needs; I've often wondered whether there was a substantive difference between shooter vests and fishing vests. Probably not, for my needs.
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My lovely wife just surprised me with a Domke Photogs vest for my birthday. She
hates buying clothes for me 'cause I'm a tough fit -- and we found that it's too
long for me, but it is the right diameter (picture short, stocky guy), so I'll
need to take it back, alas, as it seems quite to be well-made.
If I got the next size smaller Domke vest, it's going to be too tight, so I need
to look at other brands. My local shop only carries the Domke.
I wondered if anyone online was familiar enough with shooter vests to know what
brands are better-suited to my body type?
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Mike "Rocket J Squirrel"
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wait -- let me try that "after" again -- no, wait, it's only 500 px wide and less than 100kb, like "before," so I don't know why it isn't displaying.
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...and my after...
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So what I'm finding is that while the ringlight lighting certainly contributes to the overall "look" of the image I initially pointed to, these layer techniques can bring an image well within the ballpark of what I had in mind. I'll see if I can manage to post my before/after here (need to read the posting rules).<div></div>
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Hi Pam, looks darn close to my target image! Is that pretty much Ellis' ringlight image PP'd per Tim's suggestions w/ more contrast, or did you take a different route?
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$400 ain't bad, but the job I'm doing is for a charity which my wife volunteers for and I'm donating my work and, frankly, I just can't justify $400 for an occasional lighting accessory. It would be swell to have a ringlight, though.
Tim, I'll try your suggestions this evening -- sounds like fun.
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Aw heck -- a ringlight? The lighting looked to be a teeny bit off-center so I was hoping it wasn't a ringlight. It's a popular look right now, and I can't afford one!
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Oh yeah -- good idea. I have CS2 and Lightroom.
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At radio station KUSC's home page (http://www.kusc.org/new/index.php) they run a
little four-five image slide show in the center panel. One of the images is of a
man wearing headphones, conducting an imaginary orchestra (sorry, have to wait
for the image to rotate up). I'd like to emulate that look. The lighting looks
like nothing more than a point and shoot on-camera flash. But there seems to
have been quite a bit of post processing. Anyone know how to get that look?
Maybe an article with step-by-step?
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Thanks, all. Colin wrote, "If there's nothing about fine art papers that screams out to you, then you're not missing anything." A fair statement. The place to start, then, is for me to get a sample of a good middle-of-the-road FA paper and see how loudly it screams at me. Without delving into the myriad papers available and the fine differences between them (which I'd get into if I like what I see), what's an easy to get in small quantities not super expensive FA paper that would take me to a representative next level?
I'm using an R2400, do color mainly. Portraits and landscapes. Don't care for matte.
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I've been pretty happy printing color and B&W on Epson Luster, Kirkland's glossy
(w/ a custom profile) and Ilford Premium Pearl papers with my R2400. What do the
higher-end papers such as Moab, Hahnemuhle offer that my low-end papers don't?
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Maybe. I can't comment on your conversion to the Costco profile, there are a number of ways to go about that; but I can say that what you get from Costco may or may not resemble what you sent them due to factors out of your control. I have two Costcos near me. A couple years ago I found that one of them consistently cranked out prints with a green tint in the shadows, the other didn't. For the one that didn't I found that I was able to get the best match to my calibrated monitor if I sent them images converted to their profile but with their AutoCorrect robot turned on. Go figure.
Earlier this week I did a trial set with both Costcos and sent them the same images in their respective profiles and had them run them w/ AutoCorrect on and with it off. With AutoCorrect turned on, they both boosted magenta. With it off, the two Costcos matched each other, so whatever was causing one to print green had gone away. However, both did tend to have a bit more magenta and a bit less yellow than my monitor displayed (by contrast, my R2400's output matches the monitor much more closely except in blues*). Out of curiosity, I've just sent over the same image to one of the Costcos twice: once in their profile, and once in sRGB and requested AutoCorrect off. I'll pick them up tomorrow and see what diff it makes.
The lesson I take from this is that one can do everything right but one should not assume that one will get what one expects. IOW, you get what you pay for: do some testing before sending over an important batch.
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* Onscreen blues are more turquoise than what the R2400 outputs, which tends toward indigo. Using a calibrated monitor and Epson paper and the canned Epson profiles.
Inexpensive light w/ barn doors?
in Lighting Equipment
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