dean

<p>I used a 24-70 on a D300 for a while, and the range wasn't bad, although, the 12-24 got used fairly regularly. Just switched to the D700, and love the range. :) I really don't see buying a D300 right now - the D90 is such a good perfomer at a great price. I would pick up a D90, then when you can afford it, get your fast lens. Also, when you end up with a D700 or similar - your D90 is still nice when you want to use a long lens and have the 1.5x magnification. . .</p>

<p>Thanks for all the input, guys! I'm pretty excited to see the results from the MF. Thanks for convincing me to take both. :) And, I picked up a few more rolls of film today. I'll let you know how I like it once I get the film processed!</p>

<p>If I had a Canon, I would leave it at home! But, I can't live without my Nikon. ;)</p>

<p>I think I will take both - I'll pack the 503 in my checked bag, and then when I am out shooting, I'll have room in the camera bag since I'll have one camera in hand all the time. . . My bag already weighs 26 pounds! We have at least one two mile hike, and I have to have my tripod too! I'm thinking I will regret all these cameras.</p>

<p>I am only taking 5 rolls of Velvia 120, but I haven't shot film in about 7 years! The ND filter would be great - have to check and see if a camera shop around here has an adapter so I could use my 77mm Hoya.</p>

<p>I'm going to a photo workshop at the Arhces National Park in Moab, Utah. I'll be shooting mostly digital with my D300, but I have a couple Hasselblads sitting around, and want to take one just to play with it. So, should I take the 503CX with a 60mm, or the SWC/M with the 38mm? I only have room in my bag for one camera/lens. I'm worried that the 38 may be too wide, but maybe you all have some input?</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>The concept that you "can't" turn the pop up flash off is ridiculous, and easily illustrates the lack of knowledge of the poster. If you can't divine how to do it, take a look in the manual before misinforming others. If you like to shoot in "Auto" try the mode setting "Auto - flash off." That should solve your greatest gripe.</p>

<p>As for lacking the ease of use of an F3 - hilarious! Let's see, you want a manual camera? Set it for manual, and fire away! There is a simple dial (remember the F3?) you rotate it to adjust shutter speed. How much more simple can it get?</p>

<p>There are two parts to it. The first one deals with studio and set up, and the other one is on-location.</p>

<p>Rotate mode wheel to "M." Then the front command dial controls aperture, and the rear command dial controls shutter speed.</p>

<p>If you want to do long exposures in daylight, you will need a neutral density filter. They are, sometimes, labeled: ND-2, ND-4, ND-8. Basically, the ND-2 will half the light transmission, the 4 will make it 1/4, and the 8 is 1/8th. I only have an ND-4 which gives me two stops less light. It works well for blurring water in daylight. If I need a little extra, I will put a polarizer in line - which gives me a little less light.<br>

As for a step-by-step guide: Night shots like that will require some trial and error. Light "pollution" is one of the major considerations. I don't really see that much difference between film and digital - except sensor noise, and with most modern digitals - that is solved pretty well in camera. This one: http://www.photo.net/photo/7951819 was shot at ISO 200, 12mm, f4, 30 min. Camera was a D300.</p>

<p>The 800 and 900 come with a diffuser, and an assortment of gels. Both of which are very useful. If you are going to have just one flash - buy one of them, and get a 600 if you need additonal. As for which one: The 900 seems to be the logical choice - unless you have a really tight budget. In which case, I am sure whatever you get will work fine. :)</p>

<p>RAW is not a difficult issue at all. Just try it, and it will open up a ton of doors. :) You might try setting up a couple different shooting programs. (sorry, I don't remember the proper term for them.) I have one set up for vivid, low iso, and no D-lighting. Then I have my "standard" one for portrait/ documentary type work. The problem is: I end up shooting portraits in vivid, and have to change it in NX - huge waste of time!<br>

Awesome camea, though. I love it!</p>

<p>Thanks, guys, for your suggestions. I appreciate your time! I guess it is kind of a broad question. I work pretty hard at getting things "right" at the camera. I've spent the money on solid tripod, and good glass. Currently, I do minor adjustment for white balance, and exposure compensation in Capture NX. I've always thought sharpening was kind of like cheating, but I love really sharp images, and sometimes it seems like they just aren't sharp.<br>

My family owns a printing company, so when I do shoots for customers, it is our prepress people doing the work, and they have a better grasp of what needs done to the images. Otherwise, I just do it for personal enjoyment. I'll check into some books - I learn pretty well that way.<br>

Thanks again!</p>

<p>Or, you could do something like cooling down the white balance to get a blue sky, then put CTO gel on the flash to get proper color in the face.</p>

<p>Maybe check out camerarepairservice.com I have always had great success with them. Turnaround has always been within 24 hours.</p>

 

<p>I have never gotten into doing much photo adjustment because I don't do much output. Anything that gets printed is for work, and I just send RAW files to prepress. After reading a recent thread about digital work "requiring" PSing, I think I would like to see what can be done to my current stuff. Where should I start? I am basically familiar with sharpening, and a super basic knowledge of curves. Maybe I could get some tips on starting points? Maybe if someone had a few minutes to take a look at my portfolio - and give me a recommendation on a photo you think would be good enough to put some time into? I would be supremely grateful. :) Please don't expect too much from my work!<br>

I see so many amazing photos on here, and thought it was just because everyone was using MF, or had some big secret. How much goes into a lot of the popular landscape work?</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>The SU is very nice for when you need to change remote output. A lot easier than going into the menu. Also, when used with a cord, you can aim it at your units for firing at odd angles. Also, it allows control of three groups.</p>

<p>The 900 just gives you a few more options. One of the big things I like about it is that you can change gels much easier than the 800. If you are doing weddings - you might like the variable scene coverage too.</p>

<p>I don't use my long lens(80-200 2.8) much. Especially on trips. I used to use the 24-120 all the time, and worried about switching to the 24-70, but the 70 seems long enough for my vacations. You can almost always move a little closer. :) Unless you are on a boat!!!</p>

<p>As for being "overpriced:" In relation to what? Another camera of the same MP? Well, if it's just about megapixels - I guess all DSLR's are overpriced. I can just go buy a 12mp P&S, and it will do the same thing as my D300, right? It's the same resolution - what else matters?? How many of us spent the extra on Velvia rather than just buying the cheap film? How many are out here proclaiming the injustice of companies like Mamiya and Hasselblad. And, who makes their sensors?</p>

 

<p>The 24-70 is such a wonderful lens. Just get it - you will love it too! And, at $250 off, that is a pretty nice deal. . .</p>

<p>It's that evil Itunes! :)</p>

<p>If you can correct it by exposure compensation - it seems like it should have enough power. I almost never use my 600, especially as a primary unit, but maybe the output isn't quite as reliableas the higher end units? If you want to read a good rundown on the SB900 check out www.daveblackphotography.com/workshop The November article might give you some insight.</p>

<p>Are you using different shooting profiles? If so, make sure you set your file type for each one individually.</p>

<p>Not sure if it would make a noticeable difference, but are you running Vista 64?</p>

<p>It was worth it to me just for wathcing two pros do portraiture. If you aren't fully convinced of the value of the CLS system - it is good for that too. I don't think you will regret the expenditure.</p>

<p>Well, since you asked for input from D300 owners - it is an awesome camera! I have never learned Canon's user interface, so I am heavily biased toward the Nikon. But, I don't think you would regret your decision with the D300. Of course, I am sure you would be happy with the Canon offerings too. If budget is an issue - you might look seriously at the D90.</p>