j.k._york

i too shoot RAW with an E510 in manual mode. i use Lightroom to develop the RAW files. i also have used an OM-3 for

almost 20 years as well. i would have to agree that images are soft out of the E510, but i find it depends on the lens.

when i use some of my better zuiko legacy glass i get superb images with the 510 so i don't think your issue William is the

body, but the glass. i also use a Nikon Coolscan VED for my fujichromes at 14bit and get fantastic results with my older

gear.

yes we are still reading. and with IS now available for legacy glass, all of us with bags full of

zuikos are sitting pretty. i strongly recommend picking up a zuiko 300mm f4.5 if you don't

have one. an equivalent 600mm f4.5 with IS for under $300 folks!!!

I can confirm that IS works with legacy glass. I used a Zuiko 300mm f4.5 on my E-510

handheld at 1/250 and the image was sharp as a tack and I know I wasn't rock steady when I

took the shot.

for $150 you should be able to get an OM-4, but you'll be lucky to find a 4T or Ti at that price. better to spend less and get an OM-2n ($50-100 depending on condition and luck) and spend more on the glass. i carry a 24mm f2.8 (about $125) a silvernose 50mm 1.4 ($40-60) an 85mm f/2 ($225) and an 135mm f2.8 ($100) as my prime primes.

I own OM-1n,2n,3,and 4. for the money i'd get a OM-2n. the TTL (through the lens)flash and OTF (off the film) metering are very desireable features. batteries are standard 1.5v and easy to find anywhere. it just feels good in the hands.

I don't think the Fuji owed you or Andrew anything from all the great shots you two got with it over the years. using the Canon in low light isn't difficult. it will require you TO READ THE MANUAL to learn how to set the ISO (the higher the number the less light you need, but also increase noise too.)

 

I think if photography makes you happy and you enjoy the whole experience, then good equipment is worth the money and Olympus won't let you down. and you'll get my 510 when you pry it out my cold dead hands. lol. ciao.

 

ps. i'll look into the IS3 manual and see how to help you get along in the meantime.

i've always used diluted alcohol on the mirror and screen with a Q-tip with excellent results. it evaporate almost immediately and leaves no haze.

micki, i'm getting a E-510 while i wait for the long awaited E-1 successor to come out. having been an Olympus user since 1982, I can assure you of its quality, especially the optics. i think the image stabilization is just what you need. and the price is pretty reasonable given other comparable DSLR's. i also have read that the low light/noise quality is much improved in the E-510 over the older models meaning night shots will have better quality. take care girlfriend. J.K.

i like to fold about 1/2" of the leader backward against the non-emulsion side before i load it into the take up spindle. after you fold it, it will snap back about 90 degrees and give you a better anchor in the take up- sort of like a fish hook, it won't slip out as easy. also when you are rewinding the finished roll, you will hear that fold at the end click against the pressure plate ensuring you have properly rewound the film.

pick up an OM-4 and get into the wonderful world of multi-spot metering. It is true that bad fungal growth with etch the glass.

first, I would say your meter is not correct if on a bright day with 100 film you can't get

reasonable speed. sunny 16 rule is with 100 speed film you should get a 1/125 f16

exposure. with that math you should be able to shoot at 1/500 f8 with 100 film on a sunny

day. the OM-1 is a great camera, I have one, but the meter needs to be checked.

 

perhaps I am misunderstanding what you are trying to achieve and Enzo is correct in that you

may want some ND filters to stop the light and get a larger aperture. A polarizer will cost

more and is more dynamic in that it absorbs light depending on your angle to the sun.

one way would be to use an optical slave trigger that would mount between the bracket and the flash. Wein makes one that is pretty good for under $50. a small piece of heavy stock paper taped to angle the camera's built-in flash upwards will trigger the slave. the only drawback is that if you are in a room with other people using flashes, yours will go off with theirs.

Gert, does that effect your meter reading? Not OTF exposure of course.

i have the tokina ATX 80-200 f2.8 and it is a solid performer, but hard to find in good

condition and as stated above a heavy piece of glass. the zuiko 300 f4.5 is a little soft

wide open, but a great value at $200 KEH. all vivitar series 1 lenses are stamped so on the

collar around the front element. with the serial number you can find who made the lens.

most of the popular series 1 lenses were manufactured by either Komine, Tokina, or Kiron,

Cosina, Zuiko, etc. here is the link to find out more --<A HREF="http://

www.cameraquest.com/VivLensManuf.htm">vivitar lens manufacture</A>

richard,

 

32 years with an OM-1 and you're just now looking for additonal lenses? seriously though

i think you'll want something a little wider for landscapes such as a 24mm or 28mm. if

you can, stay with prime lenses as they more often than not have superior performance.

as for the zooms, the 75-150mm is a very light compact lens that covers portrait to

medium tele. unless you are shooting sports or nature, you won't use the longer

telephotos much. i personally have OM 1,2,3,4 and keep them all loaded with different

emulsions. with your OM-2n, I would keep color in it because of its superior OTF

metering and leave the OM-1 for b/w.

The 4Ti is very nice, but still commands a heafty price. the plain jane OM-4, while it is a

battery hog would also be a great compliment to your OM-1. personally, I prefer using

the 1-10 (basically a 1-4 with viewcamera type lines) screen to keep my lines straight and

you can pick on up for about $25. An OM-2sp also might be a cheaper, but worthy

alternative. spot meter with program mode. keep an eye out and be patient as really

good deals are all around.

Patrick,

 

Tell it like it is my friend. WYSIWYG is the carrot/stick senario. I've bought printer profiles

with custom LUTs and hardware calibrators, software calibrators, custom office lights,

anxiety medication, etc only to one day come to the realization that my two beautiful

bloodshot eyeballs talk my brain into seeing variations even when there were none, and

vise versa.

 

I don't follow some of the logic about dynamic range in film/chrome vs. digital. Put it in

terms an old b/w photographer can understand, the zone system with 0 being pure black

and 10 being paper white.

 

I'm not a luddite, but the old ways need not die either. can't there be room for both. or

should we take all paints and brushes away and issue artists wacom graphic tablets?

 

In the end, its what makes you happy right?

I had an XA (stolen) and a magic 8 ball. Loved the XA, but had mixed results with the

magic prognosticator.

I've gone through many teleconveters looking for the "one" that will perform. I haven't had a

3x because most of the 2x's have disappointed me. first, you are going to lose 3 stops off

any lens you use. That sweet zuiko 100mm f2.8 will become a less than sharp and hard to

focus with the standard OM split screen 300mm f8. A quality zuiko 300mm f4.5 can be had

for around $175 in excellent condition.

I've got a OM-2,3, and 4. need the '1' to complete the line. what a deal, i mean steal!

generally speaking basic repairs for OM cameras start around $125. check out PN member

John Hermanson at www.zuiko.com.

John, thanks you for your input. Let me ask you, being an Olympus tech, where is the best

place for service on OM gear? I've used Camera Repair Japan out of Atlanta with pretty

good results in the past, but would like your opinion.

Mark- Mirror problem was my thought too, but there is no sticking or drag that I can tell

 

Richard- there is nothing hanging from the mirror. I don't think the OM-3 has the baffle

you are speaking of. However, I think you are on track with the curtain not being straight.

Until you mentioned it, the seam looked straight, but upon closer inspection there IS about

a half millimeter difference between the top and bottom of the seam. I assume thats all it

would take to cause trouble.

 

MM- (I tried your CRT test and the diagonal band seems to "walk" across the frame,

sometimes in the middle, sometimes left or right of center and it does get thinner with

speed)

 

Looks like my baby's going in for repair, thanks for your help my friends, regards, J.K.

MM, thanks for taking an interest in my problem. I walked the apature down with each

increase in shutter speed. I turned off all exposure controls and ICE on my Coolscan V ED. In

PS I adjusted brightness equally on all frames to highlight the problem.<div></div>

KEH is out of the 300mm f4.5, but as of today Adorama has several with case for about

$200 in E condition.