gable_ray

<p>Mike, sorry, but i jumped in late and didn't throughly read the problem. However, on the Nikons that I own, when using flash and the red-eye reduction setting, a shutter delay of at least one second results while a rapid pre-flash occurs to reduce or eliminate red-eye. Think the OP is experincing a longer delay.</p>

<p>Check the flash mode. I would seem that you have red-eye reduction set.<br>

I've done that.</p>

<p>This should be a link for DeoxIT: <a href="http://store.caig.com/">http://store.caig.com/</a> Think Amazon sells the product also. Guess its CAIG and not Craig.</p>

<p>Check out Deoxit from Craig Labs. A small bottle is about $15 . I have used the product for many years with success to solve lens/camera contact problems. Has always worked for me.</p>

<p>From the nikon.com site: <a href="http://chsvimg.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/d600/img/sample01/img_04_l.jpg">http://chsvimg.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/d600/img/sample01/img_04_l.jpg</a><br>

This with a D600 and 200-400 lens and TC-20.<br>

A TC-1.7 should provide considerably better results if you can move closer to the subject.</p>

 

<p>OK, my error. Just called Nikon service and they reported that they do<br>

infact still repair scanners. Sorry.</p>

<p>It was my understanding that Nikon had stopped repairing scanners sometime ago<br>

and that it is necessary to seek and independent repair service. It will be informative<br>

to follow up on this question. I have the question into Nikon Repair now.</p>

<p>Bravo Mr. Garrard! You should, without a doubt, be on a comedy circuit with a well deserved stop in Yosemite.</p>

<p>You probably inadvertently set the flash mode (button front of camera just below and left of the on board flash<br>

hatch) to red-eye reduction. Results in shutter delay. Easy to do; been there. See page 176 of the manual. </p>

<p>These devices seem to be gaining in popularity<br>

for longer range applications:<br>

<a href="http://www.radiopopper.com/">http://www.radiopopper.com/</a><br>

Gabe</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Just returned from and east coast to PDX trip and shipped two well padded soft bags<br>

by FedEx; tripod, camera and lens included with other equipment. Bags were locked.<br>

Total cost one way about $100. Bags were held at the FedEx office on Cornfoot Road<br>

that is about five minutes from the terminal. No damage, no problems.<br>

Gabe</p>

 

<p>Jessica,<br>

The not so easy answer is often provided in the capability of the D300: focus calibration<br>

of each lens that you use. This requires a tripod, flash to provide exposure speed, and<br>

a <strong>properly</strong> designed test target and correct alignment of target and camera. Then you<br>

would gain control and know if the problem is solved or lies with shake, lens or camera.<br>

It takes time and work.<br>

Gabe</p>

<p>Marc,<br />You have probably found this info by now, but check out the following link to<br />Alaska Game and Fish: <a href="http://www.wc.adfg.state.ak.us/index.cfm?adfg=refuge.rnd_is_tips">http://www.wc.adfg.state.ak.us/index.cfm?adfg=refuge.rnd_is_tips</a><br />I was there a few years ago. From Dillingham a scheduled single engine commuter provided<br />transport to I think Togiak (?) on the bay. The manager at the fish cannery provided transport to<br />Round Is. As you will see by the link, they advise that you be prepared for a loose schedule<br />because of weather. Great place to visit, birds were not that accessible on my visit. Plenty of<br />walrus though.<br />Gabe</p>

<p> </p>

 

<p>This subject has been covered before, but a repeat might be appropriate.<br>

The pre flash may be eliminated by programing either of the function buttons<br>

on the D300 to FV Lock. Good for a given situation; critters do flinch at the<br>

pre flash. See page 180 of the D300 manual.</p>

 

<p>Emmanuel,<br>

<a href="http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2008/06/snow-leopards/winter-photography">http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2008/06/snow-leopards/winter-photography</a><br>

<a href="http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2008/06/snow-leopards/snow-leopard-video-interactive">http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2008/06/snow-leopards/snow-leopard-video-interactive</a><br>

These should get you in the right location.<br>

Gabe</p>

For inspiration I suggest you go to the National Geographic online site and look

for Steve Winter's photos and video made for a NG article on the snow leopard.

His images of this effort won several Photographer of the Year awards. The video

provides good insight into the custom equipment used. Fairly certain the

TM 1550 provided the beam.

Gabe

<p><a name="d"></a><strong>"D<br />Distance information<br /></strong>D-type and G-type NIKKOR lenses relay subject-to-camera distance information to AF Nikon camera bodies. This then makes possible advances like 3D Matrix Metering and 3D Multi-Sensor Balanced Fill-Flash.<br />Note: D-type and G-type NIKKOR lenses provide distance information to the following cameras: Auto exposure; F6, F5, F100, F90X, F80, F75, F70, F65, F60, F55, F50, PRONEA S, PRONEA 600i, D2 series, D1 series, D100 and D70s/D70.<br />Flash control; F6, F5, F100, F90X, F80, F75, F70, D2 series, D1 series, D100 and D70s/D70."<br>

The above was copied from: <a href="http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/lineup/lens/glossary.htm#d">http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/lineup/lens/glossary.htm#d</a><br>

Difficult to go wrong with the lens, unless it is out of calibration. Had one that was never<br>

dropped, but failed to go to focus limits after five years. Successful Nikon repair; great lens the<br>

last few years.<br>

Gabe</p>

<p> </p>