garry_teeple1

Thanks Darrell and Richard, just what I needed.

Garry

Does anyone have a link to an online manual for this back? I searched

the Nikon website with no success.

 

Thanks,

Garry

As I understand it there is no beeper in the N90s. The N90 had one but it was removed when the N90s came out as for a professional to have his camera beeping would make him look foolish. I have never heard a peep our of my N90s in over eight years.

In testing the Mamiya against the Nikon I mounted both cameras on a Bogan 3236 tripod with a 3047 head. I even went as far as isolating the mirror and shutter by turning out the lights, opening the shutters, waiting a while for the viberations to settle and using an off camera flash for lighting. The film was TMX exposed at E.I. 64 and processed by me. I had a very hard time believing the results, hence many test over a year period. The Mamiya lenses I owned were a 55, 80, 150, and 210. None of them beat the Nikkor zooms and I still have the prints to prove it. I have wondered for a long time if it was film flatness and not the lenses but it is a system that counts.

Seven years ago I sold my Mamiya 645 system and bought a Nikon N90s system because I found that 35mm would give me a much sharper image. With the advent of TMX film I found no need for the 645 format. Even the cheaper Nikon zooms (28-70 f3.5-4.5 and 70-210 f4-5.6) are sharper than the Mamiya prime lenses. I tested these cameras and lenses for over a year because I found it hard to believe. My opinion is that the next jump from 35mm is 4x5.

For ten years I was Coordinator of Engineering Records for the University of Missouri. There were a lot of verious materials that had been marked with Sharpies and after a few years they all showed bleeding around the edge. These materials were drafting veluum, rag papers, mylars, photographs, and negatives. There are several make of india ink pins available and Light Impressions sells archival markers.

Sorry Robert but the 135 Nikkor was also made with the 50mm threads. These are the older Nikkor El, the new ones have 39mm threads. B&H sells flanges for the 50mm thread.

Columbia, MO--Hot, dry, and windy this year. David Munson, drop me a line when you get back to MU.

I use a round kitchen timer but I have it inside a piece of black pvc pipe with a cap on it. The timer is illuminated by a small green LED that I placed a resistor in the circuit to decrease the light. I can read the timer by looking into the pipe and can also reach into the pipe to start the timer. Poor boys have poor ways!

Isaac, I have a Pelican hard case that I have added a second layer and the foam is cut out to hold a Horseman LE on the top with the other equipment below that I'm willing to sell. Email me if your interested, gteeple@coin.org

Picked up a new shoulder bag from Lowe's. Two nice heavy nylon bags,

looks and feels like Cordura, and are water resistant. The 16" one

has 10 external pockets, 12 inner pockets, a padded shoulder strap,

and top zipper. The pockets on the outside are slip pockets so they

don't hold much. The pockets on the inside are larger and hold

filters in their cases easily. This bag fits my field camera and

accessories very well. It's great to have the outside slip pockets

for a notepad, pencil, cable release, and lens brush. The smaller,

12" is built the same way but I haven't a use for it right now but

will find one. The great thing is these two bags come in a set, made

for carrying tools, and only cost $14.98, how could I go wrong.

Mike,

 

I have the same problem with the Forte. It seems that as the paper ages it gets much worse. The last package I purchased over two years ago is getting so bad that it is almost usless, makes me wonder about the long term use. When this package was new I never noticed any flaking.

I have an Omega D3 with a D2V head and am looking into converting it

to a cold light head. Where does the cold light head go? If it is in

the same place as the standard head it's going to be a long way from

the negative. Thanks in advance.

I want to thank everyone that comment. I had read all the previous post about field cameras and after reading these post, searching the internet, and looking at past photos I've taken I decided that the Wista VX is probably the best camera for my needs.

 

On a side note, it looks like there are several people from the Missouri area. If there is any interest in a get together I would be willing to find a suitable location. I'm in the middle of the state so it could be about equal distances from any direction and neighboring states.

As wood expands, contracts, dries out, and swells it sometimes splits and the glued joints come apart. This is the same thing that happens to chairs when the legs become lose. I have seen bamboo fly rods worth thousands of dollars split from being left in the wrong environment. I also think that a lot of the wood used on the older cameras was much better as it was air dried and quarter sawn. To much of the wood now days is cut to early and forced dried in kilns that are too hot and also dry out the natural oils.

I think for my use and the durability I perfer metal. My main concern with wood is the effects of extreme temperature and humidity changes. Missouri weather hits the extremes for humidity, especially high and hot. I am also thinking about looking at a Technikardan 45s.

I am looking to purchase a field camera and have narrowed the choice

to these possibilities but am open to other sugestions. I am

considering either a Horseman FA, Wista VX, or an older Linhof, III or

IV. I welcome any sugestions, comments, or other good advice. Weight

is not a big concern but I would like to keep it to six pounds or less

and it must be metal. Thanks

I have numbered all my sheet holders and carry a small 3x5 spiral notebook that has each number with the type of film. When I make the exposure I write it on the page with exposure data and any other necessary information. In the darkroom, I make a note on a scrap of paper which negative goes in which compartment. For drying, the clips are also numbered and I just make a note on the scrap of paper I used for processing location. I try to keep it as simple as possible with an open format.

I've never liked carrying a tripod on the backpack as it puts the weight too far back in general. I made a holder so I can carry them on a belt. I carry a Bogen 3221 for 35mm and a Bogen 3236 for the view camera. The quick release buckle makes it quick on and off. I spent a many days carrying a sidearm so it feels natural to me.<div></div>

Ken, if you look forward down the page you will find a post that has a photo of the holder attached. The one shown holds only one sheet of 4x5 film but I have one for two sheets and one for four sheets that I am going to either modify or throw out. I came up with the design on my own but others had beat me to it though as there is a link in the other posts.

Thanks to Dave Schneider for tipping me off to a problem I had with

the film holder I posted about last week. I have went back and

modified the film holding tabs to the point that they only extend

1/32" above the film and quickly tapper away. I tested the new design

and can find no trace from any of the tabs now. I do see some

shadowing caused from the thick handle but it very difficult to see

though. I will be making new holders which I will be using small

stainless steel studs that will not stick up as high. Again, Thanks

Dave, I owe you one.

Dave, I did some very close inspection of negatives last night and found a dark halo around where the tabs are on most of the negatives. The subjects I shoot make it hard to see sometimes but it is definitly there. I am going to cut down the tabs to where they are only 1/32" above the negative and also cut them in half. I'll let you know how it works out.

 

As for glue, I made the holders out of PVC and use pipe joint solvent. The one in the picture is made from a piece of a 4" pipe. I cut a section out and placed it in the oven to soften and flattened it between some cutting boards. Poor boys have poor ways!

I have not noticed any problems but I am new to large format and have not done any criticle test. I only adegitate for five seconds every thirty seconds and I vary the way I move the holder. The only difference I noticed when using the holder is there are no scratches on the negative which I get if I don't use it.

 

The tabs are 1/8" thick on this holder but only 1/16" thick on the others but I haven't seen any difference even in the sky.

Eric, the holder allows a sheet of film to be snapped into the four post on the sides which have a slit 1/16" above the base to hold the film. The two post on the side keep the film from sliding out the end. I place the film face up and develop it in trays. The handle allows me to adgitate the film and still keep my hands dry.

 

I use the Ilford method of washing and therefore I can wash the film in the holder quickly. I also have holders for two and four sheets.

This is the first film holder I made to hold 4x5 film for processing.

It's kind of crude but it works great.<div></div>