jt-photos

<p>Here's my sample picture to show my concern. It is a crop from the original. The girl on the left is in the middle of the complete frame and then on the right side is the edge of the picture. You see how blurry it gets? It doesn't look like out of focus, just simply blurry and distorted. I shot the picture with 24mm lens (on my digital camera 36mm) at f:2,8, from a distance of about 12-15 meters. Before considering buying a Nokton 35mm, I'd like to see similar picture, taken with that Nokton wide open.</p>

<p>I have read a lot about this lens in photo.net and other rangefinder forums, but didn't quite get what I wanted to know.<br>

How does it perform wide open? The most important question is: is it sharp also on the edges/corners?<br>

Sample pictures and experiences shooting at f:1,4 with this lens are welcome.<br>

Thank you.</p>

M6 850-1000 euros, 50mm Summicron 450-600 euros.

Take the shot right on the spot -> spend less time in front of the computer.

Well Garrison, I still stay with my point of view about portraits, especially close-up portraits, in which Christophe is interested in. I guess you know what the close-up portraits with 50mm or shorter focal-length look like? Isn't the nose a bit out of proportion...? But anyway, I hope Christophe that you got the answers you were looking for. Good luck and I am looking forward seeing results of your portrait shootings.

That is my point, be happy in what you do, be satisfied yourself, with the results, concentrate in photography. I rather sell my prints, which I like, for 500 euros, rather than bad/mediocre well marketed pictures for 5000.

Do you really want to become a full-time wedding photographer?! Well, go ahead, I won't step into your playground. Your pricing seems really reasonable, for someone starting up and trying to gain customers. All that talk about business and business and business plan and money, well - sounds so american... You know what you want to do, you have an ok equipment to start with. I'd concentrate in photography, let your work speak for you. I have a university degree in marketing and I've worked as an assistant to other photographers, plus worked on my own and the best marketing is to offer a good product, polite service and the word will go around. Though, I'd suggest you to take some extra courses of photography and post-processing. Your pictures are good, but there is still the extra step to take to make them look really proffessional. Good luck.

I have been shooting with Hasselblad and it is a great camera. But to choose a 80mm lens for close-up portraits (because it corresponds to about 50mm lens in 35mm cameras), as some people here propose, is wrong. The right ones would be either 150mm or 250mm. For colour portraits, as Nolan mentioned, the best ones are the Kodak and Fuji professional films and accroding to my experience in b&w, the best skin tones you get with Ilford and more contrasty with Kodak Tri-x. I hope this helps.<div></div>

Does anyone have information about Magnum photographer Ilkka Uimonen? Is he still in Magnum? If not, why? Which

are his latest works? All information appreciated. Thanks.

Things of my own interest I shoot with film. For commercial work digital. B&W photography I still do with film, doesn't matter what.

I have been shooting for some years now with 70's and 80's manual cameras (with film quite obviously), but lately

I got curious about possibilities of digital cameras and so, two days ago I borrowed a Nikon D80 with 50mm F:1,4

and for the first time tried something more serious (some holiday pictures with friend's Nikon coolpix doesn't

count, right?). I had great difficulties with all that amount of buttons, options and automatics (especially

auto-focus) that there are, as I am used to be able to adjust just three things: aperture, shutter speed and

focus. I would be interested to hear your experiences as you were starting with digital cameras and, as you all

are probably more experienced with digital photography, get some feedback of my first attempt with technology of

our times.

I was wondering how is the market of portrait photography at the moment. I photograph mainly b&w portraits

(analog) of actors and other artists and I'd be interested in which range are the prices at the moment. Any input

would be useful. Thanks.

And - don't touch the camera, it's none of your business.

I have worked as an assistant with photographers and my photography skills were not asked or needed. It is more a question how much the photographer earns with his work. If he get's less than 1000 euros for one day's wedding shooting for example, it is quite improbable that he wants to have an assistant and have to pay, let's say 80-100 euros for assistance. But, of course you have to be familiar with all the equipment, understand what the photographer does, why and what kind results he wants to achieve, in order to be able to assist, without disturbing the work flow. The most important things in my opinion are: learn fast, do exactly what the photographer says and do not disturb, assist and be invisible.

The Sky over Berlin<div></div>

The choice was not easy, but this is the photo that remained the

longest time as my desktop picture so far. So I guess it must be

atleast in top 5.<div></div>

Well, if you're lucky and someone of you knows personally people from the town council or how you can call it, it might be possible that they pay the printing and frames and write the name of the photographer under the photo.

To see the picture would help to comment on this issue.

I photograph mostly with Canon and Leica cameras from the 70's and 80's (because of which kind of photography I have chosen), but what I've seen lately from Wild Life/Nature and sports photographers, most of them use Canon.

I believe I still belong to the youngest group of photographers here in photo.net. I'm not going to write a novel

here, but Ryder, if you have any specific questions, don't hesitate to write me an e-mail. I will answer with my

best ability.

I would be interested to see the best picture you have ever taken, something that you will always remember and

you think other people get a feeling of the picture too.

Father & Son<div></div>

Thanks Stuart and Fred for your input, I'll have a look at the link. Though introduction to rangefinder photography I don't need, I've been shooting with Leica M6 since two years. Just would like to use Zorki for more experimental photography.

I've been shooting dance and theater using Leica M6, 50m Summicron and Agfa APX 400 pushed to 800. It's possible with these, but Summilux would've given one extra.<div></div>

I would like to know your experiences with Zorki cameras. Which models have

light meter? How does the focusing work? Which lens would you recommend? Or any

other information that might be useful?