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joanne_lax

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Posts posted by joanne_lax

  1. I have a Super Ikonta A with the same lens configuration. The outer knurled ring is threaded and accepts S 35.5 filters as suggested earlier. I have a few of these but the proper hood is hard to find. I've been using a push on adapter with Kodak series VI hood and haven't damaged the knurl yet. I just bought a Voigtlander 32mm push on hood which with a bit of finessing fits the groove in the front of the lens snugly and works very well. Course, I can't use my filters now but that's the way it goes. You might look for a Z-I-Voigtlander push on hood if all else fails. 31mm or 32mm will fit that front groove.

     

    Hope this helps,

     

    Health, Peace out

     

    Joanne

  2. You might consider a Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex. The model 2A is fitted with a coated Zeiss Tessar 3.5 lens and a Compur shutter which is cocked as the film is advanced which is a nice feature. The focus screen is bright due to a built in fresnel system. This model dates around the mid to late '50's and can be had quite reasonably if you wait for a nice one.

     

    Health, Peace out

     

    Joanne<div>00OjOD-42181884.jpg.bb15c4bc27e07ec31891cb9c47531ba3.jpg</div>

  3. I have several rangefinders including some you mention. Favorite is the Watameter Super which reads feet inside the viewfinder and inches for close ups on the outer dial. The Prazisa is a plasticky junker with a very short rangefinder base which I loathe getting stuck with. The Hugo Meyer (one in feet, one in metric) are very well made and usually have an accessory shoe included which you can secure to your camera if desired. The Voigtlander is supposed to be one of the best but I've never found one at a bargain price like the others. Wait for a good Watameter if you have the time. I read the same accolades on the Rollei 35 group re Watameter, scoffed until I got one and became a convert.

     

    Health, Peace out

     

    Joanne

  4. Russell:

    My Superb was very rough overall when I acquired it and is a very early one and some details may have changed as production went along.

     

    The viewfinder was extremely dim so I had no choice but to figure out how to remove the gg. Couldn't find anything on the subject on the internet so grabbed a small flashlight and poked around inside and noticed the slot under the latch. The gg is inserted into the frame you see inside the viewfinder and somehow must be pulled straight back and out of the body. I finessed the front edge back a bit with the tip of a small screwdriver until it could be firmly grasped and pulled. Never realized the tab on the right put tension on it...

     

    My gg had seen a bit of water damage between the glass and the frame visable as rust which probably made removal more difficult but it came out unscathed. Perhaps a small suction cup or bit of rubber for friction on top of the gg might be all you need do to slide it back and out for cleaning as that metal tab is pressed outward. I wouldn't be particularly concerned about breaking the gg but your experience may be different than mine so beware.

     

    My mirror was shot anyway, having much of the front surface gone and the back surface only somewhat better which projected a double ghost image onto the newly cleaned gg. Replacing the mirror was relatively easy once the body was disassembled in the fashion described earlier by Mark Hansen. Wish I had his consult when I first delved into mine but the gg can be removed without this added disassembly.

    Let us know how your gg removal goes.

     

    Health, Peace out

    Joanne

  5. Russell:

    Here you go on the Voigtlander Superb: Find the latch mechanism on the back of the body for the folding focusing hood. Remove the two screws which hold this in place and set these three pieces aside. Revealed will be a wide slot the gg can be pulled through. When looking down into the viewfinder, adjacent to the the bubble level on the right, there is a thin spring steel tab you press toward the side of the finder. When pressed, its small bit of tension will be lessened on the gg allowing you to finesse the gg straight back and out the slot in the camera body.

    Assuming your gg is original it is made of frosted glass which can be cleaned but as suggested earlier you have to be gentle.

     

    Removing and replacing the mirror is quite different than the Rollei due to the modular design of the parallax correction through a pivoting mirror box. Once you remove the gg you will see what I'm talking about. Should you find the mirror is bad let me know and I'll try to explain the process saving you from needless ruination of the leather covering on the body.

     

    A shame so little service information is available on these very interesting cameras but once you've done one you can appreciate the relative simplicity of the individual component assemblies secured to what amounts to a cast alloy box.

     

    Need to bone up on my technical writing skills...

    (^:

    Health, Peace out

    Joanne

  6. Bidding on ebay is a combination of science and luck. You have to be in the right place at the right time especially if a BIN is priced where you're willing to go. My used P645NII body cost half the figure mentioned above as a deal and had I not done the BIN, certainly couldn't have afforded the camera had the bidding gone on. Managed to nail a new in the box 75mm FA lens around the same time for about $100 because the seller didn't show it out of box. One potential bidder may have scared off other buyers by making comments about paying for an empty box. Seller had good feedbacks and claimed to be an Authorized Pentax retailer so I went for it and stole it. Picked up a new in box 120 back from the same lens seller, same story, nary another bidder and it was all mine for the price of a used one.

    Luck and knowing the science of what these things usually sell for on ebay play a part in this as does faith that eventually all that one requires will come if prepared to act decisively.

    Health, Peace, Out<div>00OHWa-41488384.jpg.b304b90d19fc1fbcac3185273f6b50bf.jpg</div>

  7. Vincent, you may be losing your hearing in that range. Speaking of ranges, my brother couldn't hear the electronic timer or done signal in the stovetop or microwave ovens in our home at a fairly early age. I've got a P645Nll and unlike the original P645 it has no battery cover for the small memory cell.

    Health, Peace, Out

    Joanne<div>00OHVf-41488184.jpg.c7f038672289af4e2052c3eacf79352c.jpg</div>

  8. Is there any difference between the three different Zeiss lenses I see offered?

    Later ones appear marked as Carl Zeiss Tessar and others have nomenclature of

    Zeiss-Opton Tessar or Zeiss Jena Tessar.

    Other than coatings after the war is there any difference in quality over the

    years and are some better than others?

    A recent ebay auction referred to the Opton Tessar as poor quality.

    Perhaps I need a lesson on Zeiss history before and after WW2...?

    Thanks in advance.

    Joanne

  9. Mark, were you reloading with 35mm film? I have an Instamatic 500 which is a beautiful camera. Would like to take it out at least once just for fun and reloading an old Kodacolor cartridge with b&w or Kodak Gold would be a hoot.

    Know of any how-to links anywhere?

    Take care,

    joanne

  10. I just saw an auction on Ebay for a P645 with a bent lens mount. Dealer says Pentax was unable to repair. Either Pentax no longer has the mounts or this is a trickier job that it seems. Perhaps the electrical contacts are the tricky part? Remove a couple screws, how hard can it be?

    Joanne

  11. Graham:

    Perhaps I'm missing something critical here but why can't you use the standard Pentax coiled extension cord with male-female 4-contact hotshoe fittings on either end? I've used one on my P645 with AF280T in TTL mode without issue. Cord is about half a meter in length and each end is fitted with a 5-pin plug with a knurled collar which threads onto a sort of hotshoe riser. Knurled plug is similar to what I see pictured on a few P67II flash/grip set-ups as seen on ebay.

    Perhaps I can post a picture of my Pentax cord which might better convey what I'm at a loss to describe. Wish there was an extensive catalog showing every Pentax accessory available...

    Health, Peace

    Joanne

  12. I'd say it depends on how fast or animatedly they are playing. I bet if the late Rahsaan Roland Kirk were doing his circular breathing thing on tenor for a couple minutes you could stretch out as well. If he's blowing the living daylights out of Cherokee or Giant Steps I seriously doubt 1/000th sec could stop the action. There's a very famous jazz phogographer from the '50's whose last name is Leonard and I believe he used strobes mounted up in the club rafters and his work is undoubtedly the timeless standard. You could google him or find reference to his work. I heard somewhere he suffered quite a loss in Hurricane Katrina. UTube has lots of classic jazz videos up and would also be a good source for lighting and camera positioning ideas. Good luck with your project. we don't get much in the way of real hard core jazz 'round these parts. Joanne.
  13. Hello,

    This is the first I've heard of a 35mm film adaptor for the P67 body. I've used a Rolleikin in my 2.8C a few times with some success but the thought of the 45mm Pentax lens/body on 35mm film is very intriguing.

    Anyone have a link or more info on the adaptor if there is one?

    This is my post on this forum so please excuse if I've erred in protocol.

    Joanne

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