samcisa

<blockquote>

<p><strong>spanking the arse of a bronze statue with a spoon.</strong></p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>:D :D :D</p>

<p>Thank you all.</p>

<p>Thanks Bob. I thought about that and actually compensated angle of view with a zoom. No change. I even messed with evalutive vs. average setting. No change. Except that, it does that with prety "normal" looking objects. No reflections or very dark or very bright objects. And it does that all the same, with any object in any situation. To always have +1 stop of compensation on flash I think is not normal.</p>

<p>I cleaned the contacts, reset all settings on both cameras, set exposure to manual, 1/200 F/2.8, ISO 400, used the same lens and flash. 580ex set to eTTL. On 40D flash output is perfect, on 5D weak by 1 - 1 1/3 stops. If I dial +1 or so on flash, output is good on 5D. Any ideas?</p>

<p>Click on "Start" - run: msconfig - click on startup tab - uncheck: ColorVisionStartup line.</p>

<p>There are PCs that you buy in stores and there are PCs that you build yourself. Very different...</p>

I think, your work is great. I ALMOST want to say you should not worry too much about technical part, but that

would be very wrong.

iView may be solution for this. I don't have new Microsoft version (probably as good). Extremely fast software. Great for sorting, naming or even changing times if you have two shots taken at exact same time. When you sort everything, you can put files in more folders and work on them.

Just trash "them". It is free... (for you anyway).

Amir, The way I see it is that you emotionally connect to the photo or not. Photo can have

main subject, perfect composition, exposure and other goodies but still leave me

unimpressed. There are photos that don't have any of those, but leave strong impression.

This photo IMHO is not really underexposed and if, it has more to do with dynamic range

limitations where you sometimes choose to go a little left to keep (more) detail in highlights.

Textures are very appealing. Composition is good as it can be and overall image has it's

atmosphere which, as Pete said, may be something that is "not your cup of tea".

These both look the same as Raw files. The first one could be overexposed by stop or two,

but second should be pretty good exposed. There is nothing done with these in CS3 raw

conversion. Everything is as shot. They are only converted to jpegs and downsized. I really

processed many photos and never seen something like this. Can't believe that optic has

anything to do with this, but this happens only with this lens.

Another example:<div></div>

Just got ef-s 10-22mm and noticed on many photos banding in the sky. I am mentioning the lens because

it started to happen with this lens. Never with for example 17-55 or any other lens.<div></div>

Thanks Christopher,

I think I found it. The hole on the shiny base on the top by bulb. Hmm, umbrella is touching the bulb when mounted. No tightening system, but it holds umbrella in place. I don't know yet. They both seem to be good lights. Thanks again.

3 Force 10s or 3 Profoto Compacts 300. With the other words, how often you need more than 300 w/s for

wedding work? I didn't need more than 300 by now, but I had only 4 location jobs where I used strobes.

Which ones are better, more reliable, etc? The only downside of Profotos I found is lack of umbrella

mount, but I usually use softboxes and have adapters for it. I don't do much studio work, but for that I

have Speedotrons 206v with power supplies.

Jakob, that was tutorial for CS2 because photo girl has CS2. CS3 doesn't require any cloning. Is it better than special pano programs, I don't know, but CS3 is totally different (better) than CS2.

Daniel. I agree that CS2 sometimes works good, sometimes not so good, but CS3 worked

perfect for me even with 10mm lens.

Very short and simple tutorial:

 

<a href="http://www.photoshoplab.com/photomerge-snapshots-to-poster-

prints.html">HERE</a>

Don't know for earlier versions, but CS2 would do decent job and CS3 much better if you

take

the photo from the same position panning and overlapping from the tripod. Move calls

Photomerge and can be found in File - Automate menu. There may be plugins or third

party

programs, but CS3 does really excellent job.

This was made from 12 images (four in three rows) with 17mm lens) without any manual

corrections:

 

<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/

1353/631088299_4d81a86ed7_o.jpg">photomerge</a>

Same here.

Do you process film by yourself? If not, I would compare it with taking jpegs and submitting

memory card to shop to do the prints. Time consuming - same. Cost - digital cheaper. If you

process film by yourself, depends on skill, either way if you want certain look, quality, etc.

Cost - digital cheaper, time consuming - depends on skill either way. Not to mention if you

want digital images (in 90% of professional applications required). Scanner able to resolve

decent dynamic range costs a lot of money. Doing it in shop (high quality) is very expensive

too. "Scanning" with digital is free. There is also convenience and control. Now, if you have

that special feeling - excitement waiting for film to be developed to see how you did, that

may be priceless.

Vlad, 15mm lens gives me fisheye distortion on 20D. Problem is that it isn't wide enough

for that kind of lens on 1.6 crop, so I use it occasionally on 35mm.

<a href="http://www.photozone.de/8Reviews/lenses/canon_15_28_fish/">Photozone.de

review</a>

Thank you. Didn't look very hard, shame on me.

Thank you, Ellis.

Can someone tell me what are these arrows for (slow/fast recycle ?), or where can I download manual.

Thanks.<div></div>

Look <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00IbX7">HERE</

a>