curtis_nelson

I picked up an old Rolleicord V the other day, and since I didn't

pay very much for it, I don't want to pay $150 to have it serviced.

The only real problems are a large speck of dust inside the taking

lens (behind the last element), some light fungus on the lens, and a

sticky shutter at slow speeds. So, my question is, how do I take

apart the lens? I think I can loosen the retaining ring on the

inside of the camera to get to the dust speck, but how do I attack

the lens from the front to get to the fungus? I'd also like to

clean the shutter, but don't know how to get to it. I'm aware that

I run the risk of screwing things up, but, since the camera didn't

cost that much, it's a risk I'm willing to take.

 

Can anyone point me to a reference?

 

Thanks

It simply doesn't get any better than this...

 

http://www.radekaphotography.com/

Thanks for the replies. I guess I should clarify my original question somewhat. What I'm looking for are ways to reduce the power output of my strobes. I'm shooting through an umbrella already, and it's still too much power. If I buy ND filters for the strobe, how are they attached? My lights are pretty old, in fact I can't even find a name on them, so I wouldn't know what holder to buy. Is there something else I can try putting over the light to reduce it's power?

 

Thanks again,

 

Curtis

My lights only have a full- and half-power setting, and I'm finding

that's way too much for the shots I'm trying to do. What are some

alternatives to ND filters for reducing power output? My room is

pretty small, so moving the lights back isn't really an option. Is

there some kind of film or something that I can use? I tried a

sheet, but it got pretty hot and I didn't want to set it on fire.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks

Hi,

 

I'm currently shooting 4x5 and find that the older I get, the

heavier the equipment gets, so I'm thinking about getting a 6x7

rangefinder camera (Mamiya or Fuji). Does anyone know if it's

possible to change film in mid-roll (and, of course, reload a

partially exposed roll) with either of these cameras? This is pretty

important to me. If not, can someone reccommend a rangefinder

camera that will?

 

Thanks

Thanks!

I'm thinking of buying an Omega D2 w/135mm enlarging lens. Will

that lens allow me to print 11x14?

Thanks for the input.

 

Let me clarify my original post. I do have a darkroom and have been printing B&W negatives for 20 years, but my equipment only handles up to 6x7cm. So, buying the enlarger wouldn't require a huge investment in all the other goodies needed to make a traditional print.

 

If I opt to buy the scanner, does the Epson 3200 deliver the most bang for the buck?

 

Thanks

What are the pros and cons of traditional printing vs.

scanning/printing at a photo lab?

 

I ask because after working at LF for about a year and a half, I

finally have a couple of negatives I would like to print larger than

a 4x5 contact print. As I see it, I have 2 choices - buy an

enlarger and print them myself, or buy a scanner and take the files

to a lab (most likely Walmart or CostCo) for printing. I don't

really want to send the negatives to a lab and have them printed - I

guess I want ultimate say on how they look. Anyway, I've come

across a good deal on a used Omega D2 for $150, but for a little

more, I could buy a nice Epson 3200.

 

Thanks

Just curious - what do you people do with your printed images?

Store them, display them, give them away, what? Anybody here got a

house full of 4x5 contact prints nicely matted and framed?

I have an opportunity to purchase an old Omega D2 enlarger w/135mm

Omega lens. Is this lens pretty good, or is it down the ladder in

terms of quality? By the way, the enlarger + lens is $200. Is that

a good deal?

 

Thanks

The chance that a tripod leg or camera bag will be in the picture is inversely proportional to the length of time spent setting up your camera.

I'm thinking of buying a scanner for my 4x5 work so I can get files

to send to a lab for printing, and I was wondering if a 4x5 b&w

negative would produce a better scan than a 4x5 contact print? If

so, is the difference noticeable? What are the benifits of scanning

one over the other?

 

Thanks

Gene, Gary

 

Why does strong blue light (in shadows) meter differently than other light (ie: cause things to be overexposed)?

Thanks everyone for your answers. You probably saved me several hours of mindless driving around.

I'll be spending a week in South Lake Tahoe, CA starting next week,

and I was hoping some of you could direct me to some of the nicer

places to photograph while there. I should be able to sneak away

for a few hours each morning while the family sleeps, but I don't

want to spend that time just driving around. I'm mainly interested

in landscape photography, but I could be persuaded to consider other

subjects as well.

 

Thanks

What happens to unexposed film when it gets hot? I'm asking because

I left several film holders loaded with HP5+ in my car all day and

the temperature inside got pretty high. Is the film ruined, or

should it still be usable? If the film IS bad, how would I know? I

don't think my untrained eye would be able to spot any difference

unless it was major.

 

Thanks

20 miles north of Provo, Utah. Desert on one side, mountains on the other.

I'd second the suggestion to visit Driggs, or even the Island Park area. You could spend a lifetime taking pictures up there.

 

Also, there is a scenic byway that runs from Freedom, WY, through Soda Springs and Lava Hot Springs, ID. I don't know what your photographic interests are, but there is certainly some pretty scenery alog the way.

 

Curtis

I need a good way to protect a Geronar 150mm lens that doesn't have

either lens cap. Does anyone know if replacements are available? If

not, what's a good alternative?

 

Thanks

This is a great forum. Really. I love knowing that whenever I have a

question, I can post it here and have my inbox overflowing with

answers before the end of the day. It's really great for getting

technical, 'hard' answers to a specific question. However, I find

myself continually struggling to make good photographs, ones that I

can be proud of and hang on a wall. Much like Robert Cardon's

earlier post, I struggle with exposure, composition, focus, basically

all the common demons of LF. I, personally, would love to tap into

the collective experience and knowledge of everyone on this forum as

a way to improve my photography.

 

I would like to propose that we have a series of threads (much like

the 'no words' threads started earlier) where members can post

pictures that we as a community can learn from. Ideally, these

pictures won't be perfect. The point of the threads will be to

gather input from others on the forum on what could have been done

differently to improve the picture (ie: meter off this area, lower

development time etc). I feel I could learn a great deal by just

looking at a picture, and reading other people's feedback on how to

improve the image.

 

Here are some things to consider:

1. Every picture uploaded should describe as much of the technical

details as possible, including exposure, film, chemicals, dev time,

filters, focusing technique, etc.

2. We should have a way to limit the amount of these threads so we

don't get innundated. I would hope it doesn't turn into something

like photo.net's critique section, where there are so many photos

that it's hard to look at them all. I would like to see thoughtful,

meaningful feedback on each picture.

3. It should be understood that the reason for posting these pictures

is to receive constructive criticism, not to boost one's ego. If you

post an image for critique, you should expect some harsh feedback.

 

I think this could be a very powerful learning experience. I know

most of my photos could stand some improvement, and I think this is a

great way to learn from and correct our mistakes.

 

How does everyone feel about this? I'd like to open this up for

comments and suggestions and hopefully hammer out some of the nuts

and bolts of a critique/review policy.

 

Thanks,

 

Curtis

Thanks for the answers. For those of you with GRA-LAB 300's, are you saying the light from the face doesn't fog the film? My darkroom is only 4' x 4', so I'd be in pretty close quarters with the timer. Any problem?

I develop my b&w film in trays, and therefore require pitch black in

my darkroom. I have been using my wife's little digital kitchen

timer to know when to stop development, and listening to the ticking

of my wristwatch to know when to agitate. Everything worked ok until

last night, when instead of pressing the start button on the timer, I

accidently pressed the 'minute' button. The timer never went off,

and my negatives were developed several minutes longer than

intended. What do others use for timers in similar situations? I've

thought about a GRA-LAB 300 or similar, but worry that the light from

the face of the timer will fog my film. Any recommendations?

 

Thanks,

 

Curtis

Thanks to everyone who contributed an answer. I went nack at it again today with a renewed committment to doing things right. I just finished developing a couple of negatives and things are looking better.

 

To answer a previous question, not every one of the 75 was a complete flop, but the 'good' shots are definately in the minority.

 

Thanks again for everyone's help.

By the way, I've read AA 'The Negative' and Fred Picker's 'Zone VI Workshop'.