Peter_in_PA

The Mark 1 version.

 

plenty of battery, plenty of space on the card, which is a Verbatim SDHC Class 10 card.

 

it just stopped after 11 minutes, when it should have gone to 30 I believe.

 

Anybody know what's up? If I get a faster card will that even matter?

 

Thanks.

<p>From the National Museum of the USAF this week.</p><div></div>

<p>The Nikon P900 might be just the thing for you.</p>

<p>A digital S2 would be SWEET...</p>

<p>Return the lens. I use µ43 and if I lost that lens I'd cry. It's my favorite.</p>

<p>Plus 1 on the charming little 40-150. Easy to find cheap.<br /><br />That said, when I want to go a little bit longer than standard, I'm in love with the 45mm f1.8 olympus. That and the 20mm f1.7 panasonic get me the vast majority of my shots I love.</p>

<p>I've bought refurbished from Nikon 3 times and from Olympus 3 times. All were great experiences at a great price.</p>

 

<p>D50 is 6MP. I had one, it was great in its day, but that was 10 years ago. Do you get paid for this work? You ought to have more recent tools than that.<br /><br />Also, that old, the camera is just WAITING to fail on you for good, imho.</p>

<p>The one that fits in your hand best and the one that you can figure out the menu system the fastest on will be the one that makes you happiest imho.</p>

<p>Dieter,<br /><br />in the µ43 arena, though, the EM-5 mk II might be a better option than either the EM-1 or the EM-1 mk II (which is too expensive imho). And lets not forget the excellent panasonic options.</p>

<p>I did what Marc did and am delighted with my EM-5.<br /><br />That said, if I were the OP, used to Nikon, and retired, I'd treat myself to the D750/24-120 and add a 50 f1.8 or something later on. Life is short, enjoy it.</p>

<p>Smartphone doesn't actually allow you to shoot manual focus or exposure. You might learn about composition, but I contend you need to learn all about light, too.<br /><br />Imho, you learn very little about photography and the way light and sensors work with one. You don't force yourself to learn the difference between shooting at 1/60 @f5.6 and 1/250 @ f2.8 for instance.<br /><br />If I were teaching the course, I'd want the student to be able to go full manual, focus, shutter and aperture. If I were the student and it wasn't defined, I'd want to force myself to be able to do that.<br /><br />When I bought my first camera, I wanted to really learn about all this stuff, so I actually bought one that had no automation at all, but that was actually before anybody but Minolta had AutoFocus even.<br /><br />Today, I STILL, when shooting non-action things, will often just go to full manual to shoot because I got comfortable with it.</p>

<p>It is crucial that she get something that can be operated in manual only mode imho.<br /><br />that requires an SLR, and i'd get something cheap and used.<br /><br />D90 with an 18-55mm kit zoom is probably perfect and probably super cheap used.<br /><br />If buying current, I'd buy the very bottom of the line currently available Nikon DSLR.</p>

<p>You are way way better off shooting in color and using the color mixer in PS to post process your images as you might have done with conventional darkroom photography.</p>

<p>Results can be wonderful.</p>

<p>Back in the day, all these "off-brand" lenses were looked down upon, but for a few years now, there has been some EXCELLENT stuff from them. I had a Vivitar 70 - 150 in the 80s and 90s that was just a DREAM to use and took amazing photos. And I had the Tokina 11-16 for a few years and it was one of my best lenses.</p>

<p>Good time to be alive.</p>

<p>Really? Love to see that.</p>

<p>No darkening in the corners, but what about blur, distortion, coma...?</p>

<p>With the super zooms, if you are printing small or sharing on the internet, you will be okay.<br /><br />If you are using the long end, anything above 5 x 7 will show the problems with those lenses.<br>

Here's what I'd do and what I did, in fact, do when I shot a D90. Keep the 11-16 (GREAT lens).<br /><br />Get a used 18-70. It's as good as the 18-200 in the range they share. EXACTLY as good as I tested it.<br /><br />Get a used 70-300VR. It's a FANTASTIC lens on that camera.</p>

<p>You need more money.<br /><br />If you don't mind a prime. The 35mm DX f1.8 is a no brainer on that camera, but it is seriously old now. You can't really shoot much above ISO 400 for great results, 800 if you aren't printing big, above that you're lost.<br /><br />But you can't afford a new camera at that level.<br /><br />You seriously need more cash.</p>

<p>Even so, even at low resolution, the first image you put up proves that the corners, maybe even as much as a third of the image or more, is totally useless in regular photography.</p>

<p>That looks like evidence of the uselessness of using this lens in this fashion... jus' sayin'...</p>

<p>Image circle doesn't answer the whole question.<br /><br />Because sometimes the edges of the image circle are not usable because of light falloff, distortion, or other aberrations. If a lens is made for µ43 sensors, they most certainly didn't design it with a wide USABLE image circle as a goal in mind.<br /><br />An expensive adaptor would be money NOT well spent on a lens like this imho.</p>

<p>Here's a thought. Get a used old 55mm Nikkor f3.5 or f2.8 manual focus lens and a couple of cheap adaptors. That lens works AMAZING and is real cheap.</p>

<p>For real macro use, manual focus is a must anyway.</p>

<p>The panasonic 20mm (I also have the first one that came out) is just a wonderful little lens. GREAT for street photography.</p>

<p>not a zoom, but a GREAT addition to any µ43 kit.</p>

<p>Kim, with "full-frame" FX, I don't think any of your issues are going to go away.<br /><br />That said, they can be mitigated by the fact that you get an extra stop or so of low light sensitivity, and it's VITALLY important not to under-expose when you are shooting in low light, because when you do post processing it just magnifies the noise.<br /><br />also, some de-noising software might work well, but go easy on that.<br /><br />f2.2 on anything but a wide lens is going to be a problem when more than one person is in the frame, f4 is way way better.<br /><br />All that said... not a terrible shot there! How are these images being used? Printed? How big? That matters a lot, too.</p>