sm-anderson

 

<p>Some great shots again this week, it's always fun to see what you all come up with!<br />Here's mine, a few eagles spend the winter around us.</p>

 

<p>So here it is I hope!</p><div></div>

<p>Some great shots again this week, it's always fun to see what you all come up with!<br />Here's mine, a few eagles spend the winter around us.</p>

<p>Adorama has a refurbished 50D with 28-135 for $900.00 <a href="http://www.adorama.com/ICA50DKR.html">http://www.adorama.com/ICA50DKR.html</a> or the refurbished 40D with 28-135 for $800.00 <a href="http://www.adorama.com/ICA40DKR.html">http://www.adorama.com/ICA40DKR.html</a>. The 50D with 28-135 refurbished is $1,050.00 direct from Canon. That will give you room for an extra battery or filter. I’ve been holding out for the 7D but that 50D has me tempted. At these prices you could most of your money back if you sold them.</p>

<p>My photography interests sound very similar to yours. If I had the resources I’d have a 5DII for the bigger cleaner pixels of a full frame for landscapes and portraits and the 7D for it’s great focus system and extra reach on the crop frame for wildlife and sports. Either is adequate to back up the other in a pinch. All at a similar cost to the 1D.</p>

<p>Old Juniper, south of Rock Springs, WY.</p><div></div>

<p>Canon XSi with EFS 18-55 @18, ISO 200, f7.1 1/200</p><div></div>

<p>Rock Mountain National Park</p>

<p>Elk at Rocky Mountain National Park taken with Canon XSi, Sigma 50-500</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks, I'll give it a try when I get back to the office.</p>

<p>Adobe RGB is supposed to have more color depth, so that's why I use it. Both softwares are set to the Adobe so the prints should still be the same but they aren't. But I think it probably does have to do with the color space but as near as I can tell both programs are set the same. </p>

<p>I’ve used Corel Paint Shop Pro for years and was very satisfied with it results. I recently decided to make the big jump and installed Photo Shop CS5 and love all of its tools, but my prints from Photo Shop look flat and a little cool. I can save the file as a .TIF and print it in Paint Shop Pro and it’s a perfect match to what I see on my monitor. <br>

So here’s all the details, I shot a Canon XSi using Raw & Adobe RGB, work in Adobe RGB in Photo Shop and print on a Epson 3800 using Epson inks & have tried Epson Ultra Premium (luster & gloss) paper, Ilford Galerie Smooth Pearl & Smooth Gloss paper all with similar results. I’ve tried letting both the printer & Photo Shop manage color, that doesn’t seem to change anything. My monitor is not calibrated, but I have always been satisfied with the results.</p>

<p>I saw this guy on LaBarge Creek in the Bridger-Teton National Forest.</p><div></div>

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<p >I got to fondle both the 7D & 5DII this weekend – WOW I’m going for the 7D, 17-55mm f/2.8 & 50mm f/1.4. I forgot how nice a prime is to work with until I played with it this week end. I’ll add the 70-200 f/4 IS and a ultra wide when photo budget allows or I find the right deal. The 5D and a better long lens will come when I start making a little money! Thanks everybody for all your comments, your insight helped me see options I hadn't thought of!</p>

<p>Great information everybody, Thanks!<br>

I have considered several combo options, it's nice to hear your ideas.<br>

Harry, at present work keeps me pretty close to home so I tend to take long weekends instead of real vacations, but that's OK because I'm in Wyoming and that still puts alot of amazing photography in easy reach. So the plan is to get the right equipment, work flow, etc and learn it inside out so when I can actually retire (+/- 3 years) I'm ready.</p>

<p>I need your help, I jumped back into photography about 18 months ago buying a Canon XSi (450d) and a couple of len ses and a good printer. Now I’m getting ready to make the jump to a more serious system. I shoot mostly landscapes and wildlife with the occasional wedding or portrait for family & friends to cheap or poor to get a pro.<br>

My background, prior to wife, kids and trying to survive in the real world, (35 years ago) I worked as a photographer for a small news paper and did the occasional wedding or portrait on the side. I shot the same old Pentax from those days until I bought the XSi. Now the kids are gone and retirement is getting pretty close and I’m looking to get back to my old love of photography and hoping to maybe make a little money to supplement my retirement. I’m planning to put some art out on the web (probably SmugMug) and participate in some art festivals & fairs.</p>

<p>My current budget is around $3000.00 and I’m trying to decide on a new camera or possibly just new glass. After a little use I’ve concluded that both of the EF-S lenses are inadequat e. My only real concern so far with the body is high noise at ISO above 200 and that Sigma 500 and wildlife requires me to crank up the ISO quite often. For now the XSi would become my backup and at some point in the future I’ll get which ever body I don’t have to give me a high quality crop & full frame pair. I’m looking at but not set on:</p>

<ul>

<li>Canon EOS-5D Mark II Digital SLR Camera Body Kit with EF 24-105L Image Stabilized Lens - $3200.00 </li>

<li>Canon EOS-7D Digital SLR Camera Body, 18.0 Megapixels - with Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM AutoFoc us Wide Angle Telephoto Zoom Lens, bo th refurbished - $2500.00 </li>

</ul>

<p>(These are Adorama’s prices)<br>

The question is cropped frame which really takes advantage of the 500 Sigma for wild life or full frame and the resulting higher quality pixels and ISO range. The other option is not to get a new body and spend it all on glass and that starts a whole new discussion.<br>

Current equipment:</p>

<ul>

<li>Canon EOS Digital Rebel XSi (450d) SLR Camera </li>

<li>Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens (Kit Lens) </li>

<li>Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS Telephoto Zoom Lens </li>

<li>Sigma 50-500 F4/6.3 EX Hsm Telephoto Zoom Lens </li>

<li>Canon Speedlite 430EX </li>

<li>Tripod </li>

<li>Epson 3800 </li>

</ul>

<p>Your input would be appreciated!</p>

 

<p >Thanks,</p>

<p>Scott</p>

<p>I'm in the southwest corner of Wyoming, where there is a lot of elbow room. 30 minutes to the Uinta mountains (I can see them from my house), 1 hour to Flaming Gorge, 2 1/2 hour to Jackson Hole and Yellowstone, and there is so much more.</p><div></div>

<p>The store I bought my 3800 from told me that they had done some informal test but they believed most Epson professional printers cost about $1.00 a square foot for ink. Add your cost of paper and that should at least give you a starting point.</p>

<p>The information you need to look at is the image width & height up higher in the list. In this case 455 x 482 that is the actual image size Matt is talking about. So if this is a clean file it should print pretty good at 2.27" x 2.4". Thats about 200 ppi considered pretty much the minimum for printing.<br>

The X Y resolution (100 ppi) is just how the software is set to display it. 100 ppi is the old generic setting for most monitors.</p>

<p>It really sounds like you are working with too small of files, the files you have were probably resized for viewing on a computer at some point. A picture that looks great on the computer sometimes are only large enough to print wallet size. To make a good print you need at least 200 pixels per printed inch (you'll find people who will say less but that's the minimum I go), so an 8" X 10" print needs a 1600 X 2000 pixel file. I normally try to print at 300 ppi (pixel per inch).<br>

Most photo editing software has picture dimension somewhere on the screen, or there is a properties button or menu some where. <br>

The other possibility is over compression. When you compress a file (especially jpg) the computer tries to figure out which pixels it can link and give a common definition to, the higher the compression rate the more pixels it links & the more file information it throws away. <br>

If you resize or compress a file and save it you can't get it back. So make sure you have a backup plan for your files, if you mess something up you can go to your back up file.</p>

<p>I've wondered about this too. The thing that has stopped me is my concern for a quality finished product. Once you give them the file they can go out and have a cheap, lousy print made and tell their friends this is an example of your work.</p>

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<p>I'm another happy Paint Shop Pro user, the other comments are correct, there is a lot more support for PhotoShop or Elements. Something to consider, if you are a student or have a student in your household you can get great academic discounts from either Adobe of Corel, that might help the budget issues.</p>

<p>Here's a more serious approach to what you ask for, it's a saturation layer with eracing around the subect, then cropping to put the subjest in the lower left 1/3 position. I also cloned out the power line and moble home which may not fit your clients needs.</p><div></div>