daniel_turner1

I use Zeiss solution and Kodak paper. The Zeiss is particularly nice because it doesn't streak or leave drying spots. The Kimwipes, assuming they are the delicate task ones are designed for sensitive and probably optical surfaces.

 

I would not use pure acetone or ethanol on a lens...just my three cents

The only IS lens that I have experienced any odd noises from was a 300mm f4L IS, and it was a wirring (gyro spinning type) sound, not a glass hitting metal sound.

 

The nice people at Canon Service in NJ will fix you right up.

Dan

My 70- 200 F4L had a broken front lens assembly on arrival after buying it new. I focused OK until I had CPS send me a loaner setup to compare f4 to f2.8 when I noticed what I thought was a seal fit problem on my f4L.

 

It was rebuilt at Canon NJ and promptly returned in top condition.

Who knows why it was broke... I sure don't.

 

Dan

Check w/ some paper photogs...

 

For example, my local paper uses 85 line screens and has Nikon D1s w/ little by way of lenses, so pretty much anything goes.

From what I can tell, the Pocketwizards are just to sync the off camera strobe w/ a camera, and will not adjust the flash outputs.

 

Can anyone else confirm this?

 

I use a Nikon D70s, a Canon 20D, and SB- 800(x2) and usually sync through CLS if I need to adjust the off camera strobes.

Be warned that Windows Vista has been known to totally destroy photo exif data on the system, hopefully you are prepared to part with it.

electricmarket.com registered through a proxy service two days ago= untracable= SCAMMERS!

 

Use B&H, Adorama, KEH, or even better, patronize your local independent camera store.

I love my white Canon L lenses, and may have chosen Nikon had their lenses been of similar quality (and white). To be honest, white looks more professional, and I would actually pay extra to get it.

 

Just my two cents...

If they are all octagon shaped, it sound like a bunch of octaboxes (octagon shaped soft boxes). I can also promise that a ton of photoshop contributed to the final presentation of the image you see in the magazine.

Other than being really noisy at 3200 the 1D MIIN that I used was fine, no stripes. This observation was based on, RAW ISO 3200 1/400 @ f2.8 using a 70- 200 f2.8L IS in Servo AF.

 

I shoot RAW even at football games w/ the MIIN, I love the write speeds!

The Nikon SB- 800 has an optical slave. I use an array of them w/ my Canon flash units triggering up to 1/250th. Use the SU-4 setting in custom, press on the center of the little zoom wheel. See kenrockwell.com for more info....

I get my stock mats at Precutmats.com, they are very reasonable and deliver promptly. All special mats, projects or commercial stuff, is from a local frame shop that I often visit. A tad more expensive, but they are done in a half hour, and match the prints better.

It usually is the result of careful light placement (trial/ error mostly). Getting the subject in focus while bringing the background OOF a tad helps. My shots look the most 3D in late afternoon at f8- 11. FYI- I shoot Canon DSLR and various lenses.

I use a manual flash, no preflash, to trigger those types of strobes. Have you tried some deep custom setting that will not fire any preflash, no redeye, no preexposure?

 

Cheers

Dan

My setup is very funny, but I will post how I do it. My high school paper has all Nikons and I am a Canon shooter, so I stick an old manual flash (Speedlite 199A) on my 20D and use it to trigger two or three Nikon SB800 s (set to SU-4 in the custom menu). This syncs all the way to 1/160th for me.

Though I do not do weddings yet, this seems like the Pro/Event Thread so here

goes...

 

I am photographer just starting out in the northern panhandle of West Virginia

with experience in sports, events, etc.

 

Web: web.mac.com/turbowv/iweb (work in progress, :) )

Email: dturnerphoto@yahoo.com

 

Need a hand on a weekend or evening (at least until school is out), look me up!

 

Thanks,

Dan

I shoot in RAW and tweek later, usually ending up at around 3500-4000K if it is just fireworks. Auto WB usually works very well. Whatever you do avoid JPEG.

The 'Blad and Canon would make a very useful combo. You could use the 'Blad for formals and the Canon for just about everything else, getting the very best of both worlds (35mm & Medium Format). Using a Nikon, Pentax, Minolta, etc., and a Canon makes almost no sense, you would have different menus, setups, flashes, lenses, and have tons of duplicate stuff that are not interchangable between cameras.

 

But by all means, take two bodies. I always have a Canon 20D (w/grip) and sometimes a 1D MIIN as well. You need a backup, so something is better than nothing, but if you are just starting out, try to have the same brand.

I have personally used a Canon 70- 200 f2.8L IS and a 70- 200 f4L on the 20D and 1D MIIN. I really like the f4L, very light, relatively inexpensive, but not an f2.8 by any means. The f2.8L IS is very fast both in aperture and AF, especially for my 1D MIIN, but heavy as well. As for the IS, I did two very cold (18 deg F), night football games w/ the f2.8L IS (IS the whole time) and the MIIN did 300 shots per battery (just for comparison sake).

 

I say swing for the 70- 200 f2.8L IS, you will not regret it!

Dan

I don't have a hood, but if you can't use you 200mm f1.8 w/o a hood I would be glad to take in off you hands.

 

Have you looked for a large rubber compression fitting from a plumbing supply store? I have seen many use/ retrofit those with success.

Have you thought about getting a Manfrotto Carbon Fibre tripod and a "Grip Action" Ballhead (from Manfrotto), have used on w/ success on lenses up to 300 f2.8?

 

I have seen a Wimberley Head for really long glass , they look nice and work well, but are really expensive ($600 US).

I see you use Adobe Lightroom for your flash site, do you know how to change the setting so you do not have to scroll to see the slides? I have the same problem w/ mine.

My 20D's finder has gone dark in cold weather w/ eye(&face) on camera, it will just fog up, but the shooting is not effected in any way. In really, really dark conditions (>1 sec @ f4 w/ ISO 3200) the focus tends to "hunt" and the camera will not shoot until it thinks you're in focus, but it is usually too dark to shoot (or I switch to Manual focus).