john_fleshin

George, I have had both cameras, and in fact just sold my 645J with a prism for about the same price. You do not say which prism you are talking about, there are three, with the most expensive generally being the AE prism, and the lowest the plain prism.

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The 1000s series has a top speed of 1/1000 second, but with big shutters, IMHO, the top speeds of 1000 rarely are accurate, also, IMO, I would have the shutter checked out. The 1000s also has two shutter releases, and slower shutter speeds up to multi seconds, I think , perhaps even up to 8 seconds. I also heard, but did not remember for sure, that the shutter speed selection on the 1000s has a lock to keep it where you left it, if you bump the thing off the auto ex setting with an AE prism, you will have trouble if you do not notice it.

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I really like these cameras, but again, IMHO, the WLF is almost useless as when you turn it on its side, the mirror will make the image upside down.

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Also, I have learned that some shutters need some repair, but the good news, it seems that repairs are reasonable (like under $100 for a complete rebuild), and evidentally parts are available. Bob Shell says they are tricky to work on, being electronically controlled, so you will want to have a real Mamiya guy work on it if necessary.

You might want to have the shutter tested before you buy.

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If the shutter speed selections are not important to you, as the body release, there is nothing really wrong with the 645j, it was brought out, if memory serves, as a lower cost option to the 1000s??

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I have the 110-220 zoom, and it is a pleasure to have a MF with a zoom. I also adapt the Pentacon 6 lenses to it with an adapter I found so I can use the 30mm Russian Fisheye, so the system is very flexable for me.

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Good luck with hopefully a new addiction??

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John

When I first shot the Konica IR, I used a Hassy with 50mm, medium red filter, and corrected the focus to the IR mark on the lens. My shots of Mt. St. Michel taken at a distance of say 1/2 - 3/4 mile were a little off focus. I was using a tripod.

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Since, I have heard that there is little correction needed for this film and the Hassy lenses and since then, I have experimented with it with filters from a dark red B&W up to the visibly opaque, with a Mamiya 645 zoom and close up, and also with a Pentacon Six with 30mm fisheye and orange filter. My best results (focus wise) so far have been with no adjustment what so ever, and I would like to hear from anyone else.

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BTW, I used a rather mild russian orange filter with the P 6 lens because the filters are rear mount, and I could not get a filter cut to fit the rear of the lens, so I was stuck with it, the results were definately IR, with white leaves, dark sky, and black water shot in the summer in Paris along the Seine.

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I do get more extreme IR effects with the darker filters however.

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I do have the Mamiya C330 as well, but normally do not shoot it with IR.

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Hope this helps you, if anyone has more experience either supporting these results , or countering them, I would be pleased to hear about it.

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John