øyvinddahle
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Posts posted by øyvinddahle
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"will fit a Copal 1" is what I toght too. It was an old lens, so the price of $130 was right for a lens who would fit a COMPOUND #2! The seller thougt I was going to use it on Sinar with big after-lens shutter.
So there are more than one version! The new could fit Copal #1. Be sure what you buy, and in what condition. Nice lens.
Øyvind:D
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Forget the A1 unless you get it cheap. If you don't need a motor: F1New, if you need a motor or automatic: T90. The auto on F1 is not wearth much, as it has no meter lock - the only advantege of the A1.
To the right in the viewfinders of both F1, T90 and EOS1, you will see the changing of the light and contast That you will miss, if you start using it, and change to a camera that has no such thing.
I did find the manual use of A1 cumbersome, and the program mode was not an option, the meterlock had a place where it would not be used.
Øyvind:D
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1. Know for sure what it is!
2. If it's fungus, kill it with UV rays (energysaving UV bulb, I'm treating a lens right now)
3. Keep it dry! Use plastic bags with fresh silica gel.
Consider to send it off to a pro, like S. Grimes.
If you live in a humid area, consider purchase an automatic dryer cabinet to protect your lenses.
http://www.chem.helsinki.fi/~toomas/photo/fungus/
Øyvind:D<div>
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I use a Kodak Anastigmat 135/4.5. It is sharp and has good contrast as long as I keep the strong light from hitting the lens. The shutter is not correct, so I use it for long shuttertimes. The lens has started separating, but it is still plenty useful on apertures smaller than 8. The price at $20 was OK. I need now to take a day to pick apart the 40-50 pieces of the mechanism, clean them, and put them together again in the right order. And I need to get new lens-glue, so I can warm the lens up, take it apart, clean and put on new glue and put it together again.
The lens came wihtout a filterring, so that has been glued on: Make sure you get what you pay for, and do not get a bad lens. The early Ektars are prone to wear on the coating, so get a Anastigmat or a late single coated lens. Avoid fungus.
Øyvind:D
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Mine emits red light, so I'm going to pur a sheet of Velvia, developed, not exposed, in front of the light. I also have to use +1, +2 or +3 to see close up.
The main problem for me is to hold it close to my eyes, so the green light from the screen do not get anywhere near the film, so this would only be for troubleshooting, using it duck-taped to my head.
It's a monocular, Famous Trails FD300 wiht Piezo energizer, battery for the light, only.
Øyvind:D
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A friend of mine buys this on ebay, and he also got the grounding machine to help me with my two 8x10". Get a friend like that :-)
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Sell it on Ebay, with all the information you have, and a picture showing the lenses also.
You might get lucky, and someone with a big saw and machining tool and lots of time might also be lucky.
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Find a 1950s Crown Graphic with a lens (127-135mm) and some kind of warrant. You will find them for around $200 (used). Then you need a goood 4-6x loupe ($50-$100), an extra black t-shirt $10, a tripod $100, a 545 Polaroid holder $100 and two packs of '52' or '57' film $50. $460 is gone.
Use it to see if you need more: longer or shorter lenses, more bellows draw, bigger camera (5x7 or 8x10), more movements, more flashy camera, negative film? try 55! someone to go shooting with, a lens shade, filters, screwdrivers, a bigger car, a new enlarger, a new wi.. d:D
A good choice for a lens is 210, the longest '5.6' lens you can put in to a Copal 1 - you will find plenty of them used and it's useful for portraits and landscape. Then it would be OK to have the original 127 or 135 which follows the camera. Then you find out if you need a third lens, and if it is going to be shorter or longer than the 135 and 210. Just remember to crop, so a longer lens should be at least 300 (360). The longest lens is usually determid by your bellows draw, mine is a 480 Apo-Ronar, single coated.
The difference between single and multicoating is from 95 to 99%, while the difference from no-coating (NC) to single coating (SC) is from 70 to 95% light transmitting. So if you buy a largeformat zoom (e.g. Fuji 155-195/8 fixed aperture, no shutter), be shure it's MC ;-) You can even take good pictures with good contrast with NC-lenses.
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<b>For shooting in/from the car in the wind</b><p>
Use a car with pneumatic lowering of the vehicle on a set of wooden jacks, or use three or four jacks. So a Citroen or a Range Rover? could do the job, or a car jack and two small jacks, so if you have a garage jack and a jack in the car, all you need is another one.
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Take your groundglass off, and use a 35mm camera that can measure without a lens stopped down. Canon FD, old Nikon or a pro D1. This will not work with a D100. The Canon F1N with a spot-GG can even use spot. This will take in the effect of bellows and filters.
I have to refocus to get in focus, and angle the camera a bit up and down to get the highest reading. If you can not fit a lensless camera in between, use a lens and push the camera with a lens against the groundglass. I had to adjust 1.5 apertures to get that kind of reading right.
If you do not have the room for a camera
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Mine S Apo-symmar 210 is said to cover 8x10" @ 32 with some movement. It has a coverage of 305 @ 22, and if yours have the same amount of additional coverage, we are talking about 295+20=315. You can change to a Apo-symmar or an old Fuji W. Or go up to a 240/9: Fujinon 240/9: 336@22!
If it was me, I would start using the lens, even wide open and see it you like working with the 8x10" format.
Good luck, Øyvind:D
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With shuttertimes over 1 second, why do you need a shutter? You will be using "old type film", not the newest T-max, so you can error a bit with exposure.
Mount the apo-nikkor on a lensboard, use some kind of lens shade and a black hat. Try the camera with the lens (the lens will probably balance better mounted like this) and get a ND-filter for those sunny snow-days.
Test the shutter on roll-film camera with slidefilm, so you know it. Test the same shutter several times, and different shuttertimes.
If you wan't more than one lens, a good packard shutter will pay off, as process lenses are dirt cheap these days.
The Apo-nikkor is a ca 48° lens, but with a 70° lens, you can use as wide as 355 G-Claron, something, still with no need for a shutter, but a three lens combinations, the shutter will pay off!
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A lens with coverage of 155mm will cover a 4x5" at infinity, and your Hassy only has 79mm of coverage: at infinty you will have a circular image, or it will cover the hole film at ca 1:1 macro, so the use of Hassy lenses is limited to those areas.
A shutterless like-new lens is dirt cheap on ebay, get an Apo-gerogon for under US$60, and add on a ND-filter after you have focused! From 150-360mm will cover your format.
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Permawash: It's easier to get and sometimes cheaper to buy than a high priced sodium sulfite. I use Tetenal's Lavaquick because I can get it at my camerashop instead of messing with orders and a lot of confusion at the pharmacy.
And it's liquid! as opposed to Kodak HCA!
I use a slump of Lavaquick, and wash it in lots of water. But always at home.
Øyvind:D
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Prices has changed: I bought excellent 150, 210 and 240 Apo-gerogons for EUR 130 a month ago, and I'm planning to build 13x18cm and 8x10" box cameras using f45 and fix focus. The odd size is because I have two film holders 13x18cm.
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What are you going to use the lenses for? I have a shutterless 305 wich I intend to use as a normal on 8x10" and a long lens for 4x5". Behind it's 58mm diameter, so I'm using a ND3, on the front is a 62, and I can use a pola to reduce the light even more.
To find out wheter your 355 stops down to 32: measure with a camera and compare to another lens.
If you need a shutter, sell it, or see if it gives you acceptable sharpness/contrast and have it considered mounted by S Grimes. Mine version will fit a Compound #2, but not a Copal #1, so I wouldnt bother finding one for mine.
The 210 should cover 8x10" at 22 or 32!
Øyvind:D
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A wide angle lens will make a distorted picture, and often the light
fall-off will be visible. The same for pinhole pictures. The light
fall-off can be avoided with a centerfilter in both cases. Both a
revolving panorama camera as well as a pinhole camera made from a
round box have a curved film plane.
I have seen quite a few pinhole pictures on the net, and in my
opinion, the curved film plane is adding a strange effect of straight
lines bending.
So I'm wondering, when is the curved filmplane essential for the
picture? Almost 180° is nice, but they seem just a part of a
Roundshot-image a bit out of focus. What am I missing?
Do you have a picture or a link to one that you mean shows the
essentiality of a curved film plane?
Reason for question: I'm planning a pinhole mini-workshop on
pinhole-day 27. april and have not found a very good reason for curved
filmplane - except for wider angle?, less distortion and more even
exposure.
The mini-workshop will be announced on www.oslokameraklubb.no
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Measure the light inside the camera. Use a sinar system, a extra-tool on a Seconic 508, or your small 35mm camera with no lens instead of the graflock back. I use my Canon F1N inside both my Cambo SC and a Bender 4x5". Compare the measured number with a normal lens, and you typically end up at around 180. That's 22 minus 6 stops! Write both down on your shim. Øyvind:D
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This is where I found 600 and 480 Apo-Ronars
I can understand that you ended on a 11x14" contact print instead of 8x10", but how about a 10x12"? I bought a box at Ikea that has room for 10x12", but I need to prolong it to use any of my lenses, so I might just use it for pinhole pictures. Please do show us measures of the box, even pictures and some results you get from it.
Øyvind:D
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The only lens I have that covers the format is an old 600/9 Apo-Ronar that you can have cheap. It's full of marks on the front, and fungus inside. Still it make better resolution wide open compared to a enlarged copy taken with a 300. But the contrast is low and the resolution falls when I stop down to workable apertures, so I have to use filters and copy very hard. But to make use of it, I'll have to make a big box and put paper inside. And it's heavy.
Find the lightest lens you can find, a 450/12.5 Fuji is fine for the box and any LF camera with enough bellows.
Find a 480 Apo-Ronar. The circle is big enough stopped down to 90, 128, 260 or smaller (waterhouse aperture)
From: http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=003690
"I've rebuilt my 8x20 camera and now don't have the small bit of bellows vignetting I had in my previous set up. Turns out that the 480mm Ronar just misses full coverage of 8x20. Even at f90 the very corners are a touch soft. While still usable for 8x20, my particular 480mm Ronar does not fully cover with the beautiful sharpness of the central image."
You might find a 520 Apo-Ronar cheaper, as they don't fit a Copal #3
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How diffucult can it be to make a new aperture scale?
You need
1. A 35mm camera with accurate analoge meter
2. A pencil or felt pen
3. Paper or tape
4. A LF camera that you can put the camera in to and the lens on
5. Put the tape over the old scale, start with the largest aperture, mark where the lever is, and go down one and one aperture on your camera, and mark for each. Write down the numbers nicely. Put in as many parts as you wan't: 1/2 or 1/3 or 1/4 aperture.
Here are an example:
5.6 | | 8 | | | 11 | | 16 | | 22 | | 32 | | 45 | | 64 | | 90 ;-)
If your camera is not accurate, it may look like this
5.6 | | 8 | | | 11 | | 16| |22| |32||45||64||90 ;-)
Take a control against the math!
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What film are you planning to use? With ortho-film, you can develop under red darkroomlight, and see the result coming if you use trays.
As for T-max films, I would suggest either a used Jobo, a homemade or new BTZS or put the film in to nicely cut drain pipe rolled in trays (not daylight)
Read more:
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Hey! You just bought a film holder that will not pop out of focus when you have extreme temperatur shifting during exposure! or when humidity will make a similar problem.
Get new glasses, and paint wiht liquid emulsion! Use it when you need it, or sell again, now that you know what it is.
Øyvind:D
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Ctein (post exposure) found that EL-Nikkor135/5.6, Rodagon 150/5.6 Componen-S 150/5.6 and Rodagon 135/5.6 was good enough when it came to sharpness, illumination, light falloff, distortion, flare, resolution, lens element centering and field flatness. The 135 Rodagon also useful for 120 film, and for 120: 9 lenses, and among them two APOs.
You would not go wrong with any new, 6 element lens, as long as you can send it back if you got a misaligned lens. All of the makers tend to send out those. A perfect lens would make a symmetric image, though a little misaligment is normal.
KODAK READYLOAD QUESTION PLEASE
in Large Format
Posted
Use the Polaroid 545 or 545i for both. Use it gently, and you might not have light leaks.
No, do not use the old double film in the new holder.
Øyvind:D