todd_phillip

<p><strong><em>Hi Matthew</em></strong>..<br>

What type of meter are you using?Is it a flash meter?<br>

<em><strong>I am using a sekonic hand held meter.</strong></em><br>

I would meter each light source independantly (with an incident meter), then adjust them to get the light balance I wanted.<br>

<strong><em>My question is in an indoor low light scenario when I am shooting at lets say iso 200 ...and I meter the incandescent light</em></strong><br>

<strong><em>the meter will not register unless I use iso @ 400 on the hand held meter...when I shoot the exposure at iso 400 on the camera it blows out the </em></strong><br>

<strong><em>exposure but if I dial in iso 200 on the camera the exposure is correct even though my meter was set at iso 400...</em></strong><br>

<strong><em>The result was great put something in my mind seems to be wrong with setting the meter at iso 400 and shooting at iso 200<br /></em></strong><br>

The ambient light exposure is varied by the exposure time, the flash can be varied by the flash power. The aperture will change each equally, it is set based on other factors, small for high DOF, large for limited DOF or to keep exposure times reasonable if a person is in the scene.</p>

<p>Thank you for responding!</p>

<p>I have the sb800 set to m/fp and the Camera is set on Manual mode...<br>

I am using a hand held meter to meter the ambient light and the on camera flash..the auto Iso is off</p>

<p>I am new to on camera flash and I am using the Nikon sb800 not that that matters but I have a situation where<br>

I am shooting in Manual mode on both the camera and the flash...indoors with ambient light from existing<br>

ceiling down lighting which I would like to preserve...</p>

<p>I know that in most situation when metering with a handheld meter you set the ambient meter at the sam ISO as the camera..<br>

yet when I do this the reading is too low and underexpose so I then dialed up the iso to 400 and took a meter read of 2.o at 1/30 sec..<br>

when I shot the image with the camera setting at 2.8 1/30 and iso of 400 it was blown out...so I then dialed the iso down to 100 and the<br>

image had perfect exposure..</p>

<p>I know I am not doing this correctly can some one please provide me with the right way to achieve what I am doing in a correct way..?</p>

I have Light Room...I have Aperture I have Cs3 and I have NX2...

 

That fact is Nx2 does things relative to nikon raw files which none of the above do...

 

It is not a replacement to LR, aperture ..or cs3...but when I shoot with my Nikon rig i run the raw files through NX2 before anything...

Yes to all the above...i use eye one device to calibrate my screen and shoot raw using GreytagMcbeth color checker...profoto strobes

Thankyou and points well taken...

I would like to add that it is true starting with good exposure white balance ...screen calibration all are contributing factors to not needing intense editings but my purpose is to gain knowlege and explore what options are available so I can hone my editing abilities whether it is for subtle skin tone adjustments or more challenging editing problems...

I am a believer of quality images from camera to print with as little editing as possible...

Thankyou all for you help...Ellis I am working in CMYK for much of the reason Anthony had stated...

I was referred to using Lab to do editing and started to read a book Photoshop Lab color which maintains lab to be a powerful work space to adjust color, contrast and sharpness then convert to RGB,...second being CMYK as it has a more indepth color range....I know this is incongruous to editing in the work space your printing in but Im exploring the different methods...And Anthony that is very similar to what I have been researching...I will take a look at the threads you posted...thankyou...and thankyou Patrick & Christopher

I have been trying to adjust the yellow to magenta using curves...but some how I

am not effecting the ratio between the two...

My attempt is to increase yellow and maintain Magetna...which seems to me to be

a simple process yet I am increasing both even though i am just ajusting the

yellow in cmky mode??

 

Any ideas of what I may be doing wrong?

i know a guy ho rigged a profoto for a hensel porty so im sure it would work the other way around

as long as the AB has a slave mode, which Im sure it would have as does Profoto...the speed light or any other flash would trigger it...I did a shoot for a mog and the owner came in with a point and shoot and start triggering my strobes until I threw him out....

8x more light

The profoto ring flash drops into the soft light reflector....so if the circumference fo elinchrom ring flash head is the sam as profoto's it seem like there would be no reason it wouldn't fit.

I have the SB800...I never really use it because I only shoot fashion so I use studio battery packs ect..but It is a very very nice flash...and the first thing I did was attach th fifth battery...lol

I'm all about maximum power potential...

I once shot a dust shoot with a ring flash and the last minute I decided

do a walking shot with the model..so out came the sb800 for portability

I have both..the battery pack has slower recycle time and different heads which come stock with coated hood over the bulbs which render a slightly warmer color temp if kept on...

Also the 7B only has two head outlets but for none electric power locations it is a high quality light source

That sound right to me thanx C..although I was thinking to rent a Medium format Camera like a hassy would be more proficient in that environment

Here is a low lighting shoot question :

 

I was just faced with shooting in an unexpected situation, Four model editorial

in a roller rink to replicate the Jessica Simpson public affair?

 

I?m shooting with a Nikon D2X and four profoto heads?the goal was to strobe to

achieve backlit images as models were roller skating in disco like ambient

lighting?

 

The D2x has noise at high ISO so I did not go above 125?

The ambient metered at f2.8 shutter 2.5?I was shooting with strobe at f8/

tripod as well?

Still too slow of a shutter speed to get realistic roller movement poses?

 

How could I have done this

I think the only thing I would add would be a reflector from under just to tweek the shadows

under the middle girls noses

Martin,

 

When shooting in studio with strobes the shutter speed is not significant other then to not

exceed your cameras fastest flash sync speed?usually around 1/250 on digital?

 

The only time the shutter speed is relevant when shooting with studio strobes is when you

want the existing ambient light to have an effect in your image...ie shooting at 1/60

I did I very big shoot with 4 models ...full crew and very expensive Merch.....

 

It was for our books and with the potentail of images being bought by the primary company

involved...they want 2 images for ads and tried to get me to send the full resolution to Italy for "approval"..

 

That would never happen in my world..the bottom line is the really tried to get it for free...and I felt it was

not worth letting them have it for an 1/8 of what should be paid...

 

Now one of the models is asking for images from that shoot..which is not a problem but what is a problem

is he works for them often and lets them use images for nothing...

 

How can I give him the images and still protect my rights to them...

 

A. contract

B. in what form should I give them to him

profoto has a small reflector for umbrellas practically not a reflector...the zoom seems like it

should be as wide as poss....which is the purpose of the umbrella to start with...but then

again maybe there would be an effect that the zoom would bring...more then likely a minor

one ..

If I was you I, not to mention that your shooting in the New york area which tou'll need higher

reflective surfaces I would get the silver/ white fabric for the photoflex lite panel...

 

If you want to play it safe take a sheet of super white non gloss paper and test the result...

The translucent from photoflex in a heavy grade so the results will be simular

Lisa,

 

The reflectors which also have the translucent fabric are diffusers (scrim) as well as is the lite

panel which come with translucent fabric the only issue comes to how much light will be

blocked out?if you look on B&H and search for scim jim (very expensive) you will see that it

offer fabrics which com in different degrees of light diffusion..ie 1fstop, 1/2f stop 1/4f stop

of light being blocked. The translucent reflector can be used for both but the effect

depending on the brand will vary.

Norman...

 

Usually you want to stick with the same brand for compatibility and even the within the same

brand as is with Profoto...some heads are only compatible with certain packs...also certain

brands have different "plug" formation then others...

Yes keep the SS at and under 250 and watch that when your shooting your thumb does not

wonder on the dial and roll it to a different setting

RicchI always say if the image is what you desire then your doing it right...

There is a lot of different daylight though sunny, cloudy shade which all maintain a different

kelvin temp...Custom white balance can vary as well...if yoou using a whibal card it can tend

to warm your image and if you use a gretagmacbeth white card it can cool things...

 

I always shoot in raw just so I can make final ajustments but I usually do custom wb also...

 

If your getting the effect you like with the presets then your doing it right.