john_hoang

Khoa, there are different versions of this viewer. They are all discontinued as indicate in the following link. You can try to get a used one but the camera needs to be modified to fit.<p>

 

I bought a used Ebony that came with the viewer and was very happy with it... for a while until it was too bulky to carry on the field.<p>

 

<a href="http://www.phootos.com/orphanFrame.htm?http://www.phootos.com/TCviewers.htm" > http://www.phootos.com/orphanFrame.htm?http://www.phootos.com/TCviewers.htm </a>

Canham wood 5x7 is a nice one if you do not mind the price (~$2500). Light weight, long bellows, and generous movements (except front rise). If you are looking for a lower price, Shen Hao FCL57-A is also nice and light weight but bellows is shorter. Shen Hao HZX57-IIAT is about 1kg heavier than both the Canham and the FCL57, has lots of movements, very sturdy, and user friendly.

 

I had the Shen Hao HZX57-IIAT for couple of years, sold it and bought the wood Canham for its lighter weight. Hope it helps.

I don't have and don't know about multiple sheet back. But it works fine with Fuji Readyload and Polaroid holders. It also has Graflock back and takes all international roll film backs. Hope it helps.

You can download sofware to make a pocketable DOF and hyperfocal distance by follow the link below. It supports cameras from 35mm to 8x10. Works very well for SLR and DSLR. Also great for large format if you do not need movements.

 

<a href="http://www.dofmaster.com/custom.html">http://www.dofmaster.com/custom.html</a>

Arthur,

 

You can fold the leather down flat then swing it to the side through a hinge then use a loupe to focus.

I understand Jacob's question this way:

 

1. In the case of a Canon EOS, the camera knows - through electronics circuit - whether a f/2.8 lens or a f/5.6 lens connected when it takes the light reading.

 

2. With the Canon FT, the camera knows what lens (f/2.8 or f/5.6)connected by the mean of couplings on lenses. If there is no coupling, we have to take the light reading at working aperture. (in the case of using a Leica lens on a Canon camera, for example)

 

3. On a large format camera, the light reading in EV at the ground glass with a f/5.6 lens and the reading with a f/10 lens are different, I think, because more light reaches the ground glass with f/5.6 lens than f/10 lens.

 

I don't know how a booster operates, but I guess, there should be a setting to let the light meter knows what lens in use before taking a light reading on the ground glass.

 

If there is no setting, I will be sleepless!

Looking for a second hand Linhof Technika 4x5, I came accross this

store. The new price is pretty impressive, but I can not find him in

the neighbor to neighbor in the photo.net batabase. I am including

the link: <p>

http://www.leicagallery.com/linhofsales.htm</P>

 

I would appreciate any feedback about this store. Thanks in advance.

Thanks very much, Dean. It works. I am just amazed that how you could find this out.

 

Thanks again. The moon will be bigger tonight! LOL.

I have successfully photographed the moon with a spotting scope

connected directly to my D60 via an adapter. But as soon as I put a

1.4x TC in between (2 different brands: Canon and Tamron), the camera

gives me error 001 (meaning 'clean the contact pins'). I tried to

cover all the pins, both in front and rear of the TC, and still got

error 001.

 

I wonder how can the camera knows there is a TC connected if all the

pins are covered. Would someone help explaining or knows of a way to

make use of the TC for my setup.

 

I thank you for all of your help.

Before a shooting trip, I "steal" about 2' of aluminum foil from my wife's kitchen, fold it down until it's about the size of a small note pad, and... voila, I can protect about 10 rolls of 120 or 220, without weight, bulkiness, and it's "free"...

Why should we worry about our MF equipments? Look at the case of a Canon D30 SLR, it looses 2/3 of its value in one single year. And wait until the newer model D60 be put on the market in the next couple months, one can get the D30 for well under $1000 and who knows how much under...

This <A HREF="http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/rollei/rollei_manuals.htm">site</A> has manuals for Rolleicords that you can download:<P>

 

Hope it helps.

George, about the scanner, you should read the other thread in this forum title "Nikon 8000 or Polaroid 120?". About printer, if you do not need to print photos that last 200 years!? then go with Epson 1280. The Epson 2000P has green color shift, even after careful calibration.

Thank you all for your advice. I am in the midle of a 3 way road now. I'ld really like to have the ICE from the Nikon (I am using Nikon LS-2000 for my 35mm), but I cannot afford to have its instability and banding problems. Maybe I will just wait a while hoping Nikon will fix the problems soon... maybe...

 

Thanks again.

I've heard of banding problem with the Nikon Coolscan and wonder if

Nikon is fixing it with a new version or a new model because most of

the mail order stores, I've checked with, are out of stock. Does

anybody know about this? Or if you are using either the Nikon or

Polaroid, please give your advice. Thanks in advance.

I've received the camera back from Leica about 2 weeks ago. According

to the accompanied paper, they said they "repair circuit board". I

emailed them to ask what they really did, and so far without answer.

 

<p>

 

However, they sent me a new warranty card with 90 more days to

compensate to the problem.

 

<p>

 

I have not had time to run some films to test the camera yet. That is

also the reason for this late posting. Sorry and best wishes to all

of you.

I've just received email from Leica asking me to send the camera back.

Amazing! What a quick reply! This is what I've paid for: excellent

products and excellent service. I AM a proud owner of my Leica!

 

<p>

 

Thanks to all of your answers. You too, Trib!

 

<p>

 

I will keep you up to date.

Hi Bill,

 

<p>

 

All of them. It randomly happened to middle frames like 14, 26, 18...

 

<p>

 

Today, I emailed Leica, told them what had happened. I do not know

when I will have their answer. I will let you know...

 

<p>

 

Thanks to all of you.

Sorry, I should have made the link "clickable"

 

<p>

 

<A HREF="http://home.pacbell.net/rby2000/test.htm">http://home.pacbell.net/rby2000/test.htm</a><p>

<i>Fixed. -t</i>

On a recent trip I shot 5 rolls of films. After getting the slides back I noticed some weird light streaks as circled on the accompanied 3 frames. What makes me crazy is they do not appear on all frames, but couple of frames per roll. And it happens with frames in the middle of the roll, not beginning frames nor end frames. And the pattern looked the same.

 

<p>

 

Could it be light tight problem between the lense and the camera? If so, then all frames would be affected. I just can not figure out. Please help if you have any ideas. I should note that I had only one lense attaches to the camera at all time. Thanks in advance.

 

<p>

 

Here is the link to the pictures:

 

<p>

 

http://home.pacbell.net/rby2000/test.htm

Jim,

 

<p>

 

I have not tried Provia 200 or 400, but been pushing Provia F 100 to

200 with great results. I have heard that Provia F 100 pushed 1 stop

is better than Provia 200!

 

<p>

 

Another thing is why carry both while you can carry only one for your

"all purpose" film. Regards.

Stephan,

 

Very smart idea. Where can I get the ground glass? Thanks

 

John Hoang

Thanks to all of you for very helpfull responds. I will try the

Elmarit because with your recomendation, and the price so low,

compare to the Summilux, it is worth a try. Thanks again.

I am planning to get one of the two lenses: Leica R 80mm f1.4 and 135mm f2.8 and would appeciate information from Leica users. How good are they wide opened?