pablito_pistola
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Posts posted by pablito_pistola
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<p>I researched this a lot and got the Think Tank referenced earlier in the thread. Works great with 24-70 2,8 attached and hood in shooting position. Not at all too tight. Easy to get camera out.</p>
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<p>I suggest not using the lenscaps at all, or use them only when you are storing the lens and not using it. </p>
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<p>The lens is quite good, and has a metal mount, unlike the later even more plasticky kit lenses with their fragile plastic mounts. The real question is whether the battery will hold a charge. $300 is not outrageous given the new condition.<br>
Most folks here might be right in asserting that it may not be the best camera for his needs, but I much prefer my photo students to have a D70 than a p/s. It is possible to work with somewhat shallow depth of field, which is impossible with a tiny sensor p/s. <br>
I have made very large prints from D70 files, increasing the resolution through Alien Skin interpolation. Worked beautifully.</p>
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<p>The man needs to do the work with what he has on hand.<br /> 1. Use the 50 or the 85mm lens.<br /> 2. Use natural light, outside, and position the photo to avoid as much glare as possible. If the surface of the original photo is glossy, this won't be easy.<br />3. You don't mention having a polarizer with you but if you do, use it.<br />4. Since you don't have a tripod, use a FAST shutter speed. As fast as you can get, but keep the ISO at or lower than 400 if possible. Even ISO 800 and a fast shutter speed is better than ISO 100 with blury results from camera shake. Ideally shoot at f8, but open up as far as f4 if you must in order to preserve the fast shutter speed.<br /> 5. Even using a fast shutter speed, brace yourself and keep the camera as still as you can.<br /> <br />This method may not be ideal but it will give you the best results given what you have with you. I have used this method many times with results acceptable for publication. Be sure to crop and square up the images in PS.</p>
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<p>going back to older firmware may not be possible.</p>
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<p>yes, I want a D300s with 18-24 MP and better high ISO, better IQ overall. I have a D7000 and happy with IQ but I hate the mode dial on the top left.<br>
<br />i make big prints.</p>
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<p>It is not true that if you nail the exposure then jpg gives you the same quality as raw.<br>
Under many circumstances, you cannot capture the dynamic rage of a scene with jpg. In other words, with jpg you must choose between blown highlights or plugged shadows unless the lighting is very even. You can do much better with capturing a wide dynamic range using raw so long as you expose correctly and know how to make adjustments in your raw converter. </p>
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<p>I also hope for something like a d400; for all the reasons already cited but also because I find the shooting mode dial of d7000 to be a pain in the a**. There is no lock on it. I much prefer the three buttons found on the D300 over the plastic shooting mode dial... Very disappointed in the d600 because of the cheapo plastic mode dial...<br /> I've been using a d7000 for the extra MP and the better image quality, but the D300 still feels much better in the hand.</p>
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<p>So, did you get the client's permission to plaster the baby's image on the internet?</p>
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<p>but once you get the hang of it, you find it's exceptionally well designed and thoughtful interface.</p>
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<p>I am loaded with money and with strong assistants capable of carrying any load. So I take three of everything because two might fail. And, yes, I am also "too cool for school." Hasta la vista, professors!</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>I didn't catch that the OP owned both.<br>
For heaven's sake... why?<br>
You could do your own tests to determine which works best for you, but perhaps you are only looking for corroboration here.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Why not own both? You never know when something will fail. I just had a Nikon battery charger fail in the field. Now I need to travel with a backup battery charger. I have had lenses fail in the field. Not looking for corroboration. Just interesting discussion, so thanks to all for that, though as I explained earlier, the third-party lenses are not of interest to me. I understand why they may be of interest to others given the big cost savings. </p>
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<p>I did search and found the 1st link but not the second, thanks.<br>
Very interesting comments from everyone so far.</p>
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<p>Interested in hearing from those who have both, or have used both.<br>
Interested in hearing about subtle differences in distortion, rendering, sharpness etc. I find both respond well to distortion correction in post. (I own both.) I find that MAYBE the 12-24 is a little sharper in the corners or near the edges but I could be wrong.<br>
Interested in any other observations. Including why the big difference in price?<br>
Not interested in hearing about the obvious differences like like one is fixed at f4 and the other one has a variable max. aperture. Or that one is wider. Though that extra 2mm does make the 10-24 considerably wider!<br>
Not interested in discussing any of the non-Nikon wide zooms (Tokina, Sigma, etc....)</p>
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<p>It depends on the sort of photographer you are, not on where you are going...</p>
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<p>The 20mm 2.8 is sharp but has a lot of barrel distortion.</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>"Nikon USA warranty is substantial with 5yrs."</p>
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<p>but not for the bodies, only the lenses. It's the bodies that need service far more often.....</p>
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<p>works great on Nex 5n. Very wide lenses will get color shift in corners, though. I have gotten superb results with Leica lenses 28mm and longer.</p>
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<p>the very cheapest adapters from ebay work perfectly well...</p>
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<p>good luck finding one.</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>"Those of you that do buy it will take a huge depreciation on your purchase."</p>
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<p>....as opposed to all the other digital cameras out there!</p>
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<p>Joder!!!<br>
wish I could help.</p>
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<p>incredible how judgmental you folks can be. you have no idea why someone might need something or what use it will be put to or even if price is a factor. SO MANY judgmental posts. Incredible.</p>
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<p>Facts....<br>
in journalism and in academia there is such a concept called "sources"<br>
"...never mind..."</p>
How is 24-70/2.8 for head and shoulder shots?
in Nikon
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