john_gallino

<p>Hi All<br>

I'm running an event photography business while still a full time college student and it's been going pretty well. However, I've come to realize that my strengths lie in shooting and documenting events, and my least favorite part of the business is the albums. Yes, I know there are album design services and many companies will do the design for you, but I also hate the back and forth with brides about which pictures they want and the extension of the business relationship to several months more than it has to be. At least while I finish up my schooling, I don't have the time or energy for the album aspect of a wedding photography business, so I'd like to re-invent my business and market myself as purely a photographer. I will offer digital files, online galleries, DVDs and prints, but no more albums. Many of my clients seem to be into DIY albums and scrap booking anyway. However I would like to put together a page that can reccomend where brides can use my pictures to get albums made of varying quality and cost. Of course there are iPhoto books, Adorama books and Blurb books but I was wondering if you knew of any other companies brides could use? Perhaps with more traditional, thicker style albums? Or would the best idea be to form a partnership with a graphic artist or other photographer who has no problem making albums?</p>

<p>Then I was misinformed. I was under the impression the D40 had a newer chip and could handle noise and color much better than the D70.<br>

Maybe I'll just wait for the D90 to drop in price a couple hundred dollars.</p>

<p>The D200 is too old. Right now I'm leaning towards not buying anything, or maybe spending the money on another SB-800...</p>

<p>I'm not really sure. Some glitch related to an Answers.com add-on I have in Firefox. When you alt+click a word, it gives you a little pop up with the definition, and I did that to check if I spelled a word correctly, but for some reason it left a link in there, and now this site won't let me edit my message...</p>

<p>I'm currently shooting weddings with a D300, and my secondary camera is the old D70s. The D70s is severely outdated and takes pretty noisy pictures in low light (common in wedding photography). I've been compensating with fast lenses, but I'd like to upgrade my backup camera to something with newer technology.<br>

I'm attracted to the D40 because it's very lightweight, and very affordable. I think i'll be more likely to take it for daytrips to the city and such. Though its only 6mp, I would prefer this when I'm not shooting serious events. What I don't like about it is that it has an older chip than the D300/D90, it has only one command dial (stupid). It's also a bummer that it won't be able to autofocus my 50mm f/1.8.<br>

I'm tempted to get the D90 because its the latest thing, and the inside hardware is pretty much identical to my D300 which I love very much. But with camera prices dropping every few months, and it being only a secondary camera, I'm not sure if the extra cost is warranted. I'll also have to spend an additional $40 or so on an SD card, because all I have is CFs. I'll hardly ever use the live view, and probably never use the movie mode, and $1000 is quite a bit for me.<br>

For weddings, I'll probably keep my 18-70mm on my D300 and leave my 105mm f/2 or 50mm f/1.8 on the secondary camera I end up getting.</p>

I'm talking about the first artist, Perry Harmon, in particular. I think it's a very cool look when done right. It makes photos look like Norman Rockwell paintings.

And I know its not just lighting as those images were created with the LucasArt software filters

http://www.lucisart.com/lucis-art2-artist-gallery/lucis-art-2-gallery.htm

<p>

Those kinds of images. I'm trying to figure out, what, logistically, is going on to give the photos that look.

I've seen some tutorials that come close to getting a look like that by using Unsharp Mask with a very high radius.

<p>

Anyone have a clue what exactly is being done to the image to make it look like that?<p><b>Moderator: This is not a question about aesthetics, it is a question about technique. Please respond to the question if you are posting.</b>

Managed to fix the lens with Ken's method. Took a looooong time to get everything aligned back together, but worth it to save $120 or more. Thanks for the link Jim!

wow Jim that link really simplifies things. I opened it up like Ken says in that thread, but I didn't realize I was probably looking at the same screws. Somehow I managed to get it back the way it was and gave up, thinking that the screw in question was inaccessible without dealing with all the electric junk.

 

But now that I read what Ken said, I'm gonna give it another try. wish me luck!

Wow, what an attitude. Ever consider that I'm concerned about ruining it and having to throw the whole thing in the trash?

I'm a student on a very tight budget, but also starting up an event photography business with upcoming weddings

on the way.

 

My Nikon 18-70 kit lens, which I was quite fond of, has begun to malfunction. The zoom ring is jammed somewhat

around the 35 mm mark and will only move a little bit each way. I can still use it, but not to its full potential.

 

So yeah, its a cheap lens. I could probably get it for a little over $200, but I'd like to avoid paying that much

if I can.

 

I did some googling and found some people with the same problem, and a guy that fixed it said its really due to

one loose screw inside, which is quite hard to reach and I'm not up to the task.

 

http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=281485

(scroll down to the pictures)

 

So I'm trying to find a repair shop in my area (northern NJ), or anywhere if its cheaper that'll do it for maybe

$100 or less. Seems a little ridiculous to pay someone more than $100 to tighten a screw.

 

I'm not sure what Nikon would charge. They told me most repairs are $200 (I just paid that to get my D70

repaired) but more minor things could be $120 or $150.

 

I tried finding the lens used but its surprisingly sparse on ebay, and I haven't found it for less than $200.

 

Any advice? I'm just looking for the cheapest, quickest solution.

I was shooting a wedding yesterday and my camera fell maybe two feet from off a

chair. I guess it landed right on the hotshoe area because two things broke.

 

1) the pop up flash no longer pops up. it makes a clicking sound when you press

the button to pop it up but the spring must've been knocked out of place. if you

lift the flash yourself and let go it just drops.

 

2) I don't use the pop up flash so that's not really what I care about. A bigger

concern is that the camera wont fire any flash on the hot shoe! If I put my

SB800 flash on the hotshoe and turn it on, the camera will focus but never

release the shutter. If I turn the flash off or take it off the hot shoe, then

it will take the picture.

 

I was really hoping this could be something I could fix myself with a

screwdriver, tape and paperclips but I think my chances are slim. Any advice?

I was given the book Focus On Profit as a gift and it comes with great software

called PhotoByte. Those familiar might know that in its hayday, PhotoByte cost

$1125 or something like that.

 

However, its now pretty dated visually, is very geared towards photographers

still relying on film, and has an emphasis on commercial photography.

 

Is there any software that does a similar job of keeping track of clients,

automatically creating letters and legal documents, etc but with a digital

emphasis, and maybe tailored more for wedding/event photographers?

Its only $5, and a little more complicated than a simple radial blur

I designed this neat action that mimics the LensBaby effect. After putting it up

on an art community site and seeing how much attention it attracted, I became

interested in selling it.

 

I decided to make a "shareware" version of the action so people can 'try before

they buy' that applies the effect but also adds a watermark. The problem is that

if you download this action, you can simply uncheck the steps that add the

watermark and get the same effect for free.

 

Is there anyway to make an action uneditable? To protect the steps somehow so

they cannot be tampered with?

Yeah from a significant distance that would be fine, but this will be placed in a home and probably not a large home, so I'm not quite satisfied with that quality. I've asked her to pick another photo or a smaller size.

I checked the raw, its not much better. I'm not sure why, but it just wasnt that sharp right out of camera. I had just gotten the D70 and didnt really have my technique down yet

That's a good idea, but I dont have a printer at home. I get my prints made and mailed back through adorama or studiologic.

 

I think I'm just gonna ask her to pick another. Or print at a smaller size if she really has her heart set on that one.

Who knows.

Yeah an 8 x 12 would be much safer, but you lose the feeling of the shot at such a small size.

A friend asked me to enlarge one of my shots to a 20 x 30 inch poster size. I

took the shot when I first got my SLR, and due to some inexperience, it's not as

sharp as it could be. Could some experts here please take a look and give me

some advise whether I should print this or ask her to choose a different shot?

 

 

View the photo at

 

www.johngallino.com/media/delete.jpg

Whoops, I hadn't seen Gary's response. That answers a couple of my questions already.

Okay I did a little reading up on using commander mode with CLS to fire the flash remotely. I cant find my english manual for my camera body so I had to rely on my lackluster spanish.<P>

 

I got most of it figured out, and managed to get the SB-800 to fire remotely via the pop up flash. But I'm left with a couple questions<p>

 

1. The SB-800 wouldn't fire until I set it to channel 3. Is that normal?<br>

2. I know that if you set the SB-800 in commander mode, you can make it so that it fires the other flashes without actually flashing itself. Can you do the same with the popup flash on the nikon? how?<br>

3. Will the SB-800 be triggered by flashes from other people's cameras? Don't they emit some IR light also?<br>

4. Is this a radio signal or Infrared?

I never heard of CLS. Can I do it with a Nikon D70s? How is the range for that and do I still need to fire the on-camera flash?