j_rakieski

<p>Please excuse the resurrection of this old post. If you have a plaubel makina 67( not sure which one model paul was referring to) you can remove the back door easily. You need small jewelers screwdriver. The door is held on by two tiny screws that run vertically. They are located on the top and bottom where the unexposed roll of film rests. The most important thing to remember is don't fully remove the screws as it's difficult to reset them. once the door is removed, as there are two tiny aluminum bushings(IMPORTANT)that rest in each hole attached to the door. They come out easily and should be taped to the back of the door or a storage container while you are finishing the light seals. If you lose one I have no idea who would sell you a similar tiny bushing as Plaubel won't sell people parts. Try smallparts.com if this does happen. Email me if you have any questions as I've started doing basic repairs on my makina 67 including changing and making bellows.</p>

<p>i think he still uses a plaubel makina 67</p>

<p>wow this is an ol thread d but here's a link to a new makina 67 blog<br>

<a href="http://www.nonviables.com/?p=368">http://www.nonviables.com/?p=368</a></p>

<p> I have had all of the above issues with my Makina. It was given to me by a retired pro and had many issues that took months to get fixed properly. First, a bellows leak.. easy fix. Then the light seals, bit trickier to cut because of the design. a replacement diopter, which the factory no longer has in stock, was installed because the old one was chipped. A leica diopter fit in perfectly and seemed to be a bit sharper. I had a meter problem and a repair guy had nightmares over it. now the meter doesn't work at all. no big deal get a hand held meter. A CLa and rangefinder adjustment were needed. Good repairs are next to impossible to find. the factory still works on them but it's insanely expensive. even insured shipping over to germany will be $100+ back and forth from the states.<br>

That said, I love the images it produces. One thing, I'm not sure it was mentioned, the shutter release it actually quite loud for a leaf shutter camera because of the cocking mechanisms. there is a loud double "CHA_CHUNK" sound. the mamiya 7 and rollei TLR are silent in comparison.</p>

<p>hello, i'm almost done with my 4x5 conversion. I've beeen taking my time and working on it for the past two months. I even cut down the graflok so it only protrudes 1/2 inch on the bottom. i'm stoked. also much thanks to the info people have posted in the past. sorry if the answer to this question is buried deep within an old thread.well, I just have to adjust infinity and possibly the rangefinder, slap in my 550 holder and take some tests. we'll see. My new camera leather arrived today. anyone have experience removing the front fake leather and the knob of the 110b? any tips greatly appreciated.<br>

One more, i have a bunch of close up filter for this camera. can I use them by focusing on the ground glass? seems like this should work?<br>

thanks for your time<br>

J</p>

<p>I shoot the fuji pack at weddings if the client requests it. Try getting a mid size moleskine notebook or similar. I use the thicker sketch pad. I put each one between a fresh sheet. No problems with scratches or sticking together. good luck<br>

J</p>

I have the voigt. 58 1.4 and it's excellent. great for portraits on the 1.5 sensors. I have been pining over a 100 zeiss zf and the lanthar this seems to deliver similar results. I also own a 25 zeiss zf lens they look similar but the zeiss has a more precise focus and it takes 2 long turns to go from close to infinity. They feeel very different but i'm sure they deliver similiar real world results. I wasn't aware of the tiny throw on the lanthar, that might be a deciding factor for me.

My tamron 17-50 fell apart. I think it's actually similar quality to the nikon kit lens. maybe I got a bad copy? I sold it and bought a zeiss 25mm and have been very happy.I also have been deliberating about getting a d2x to compliment my fuji s5 which is killer in low light.

The one I saw a long time ago,I was told, was stitched together 8x10 film transparencies or negs. the enormous print was face mounted in a silicon substance behind thick acrylic. I think the process is called diasec? They do look nice in person. As for your other question, The kind of prints made by a guy that people talk about at 2am on photo forums:)

andrew, don't get me wrong, i'd love to own a littman but but the 110 polaroid bodies seem

to be heavier than my basic crown graphic. I think you would have to put a small fuji or

nikkor on the 180 to fully cover 4x5. It would be really cool if you had the rangefinder

calibrated,too. I bet you would have to be quite a machinist to get it right on.. a dude that

goes by razzledog always seems to come up for polaroid conversions. check him out. his

work looks solid and a fraction of the cost of a littman. maybe he can better answer your

question about the 180 or 195 conversion-http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~razzle/

if true, there is always fuji instant films. I use 100b all the time in my 250 model. it's

slightly cheaper than polaroid, too.

they look like paintings after edward muybridge's motion studies. they're cool though.

I believe that it will be gone like kodachrome in the next few years. I wish fuji would make a

P/N version, It wouldn't be the same but maybe give the 55 some competition. I love this

stuff but it has doubled in price in the last 6 years.

I have had luck with 1/8" black sintra for gallery work. The 1/4 sintra isn't any stiffer, it's

strange. It's cheap for me and it seems to help work sell but it will warp slightly above 160

degrees or a print over 20x30 and isn't archival( at least the adheasive isn't) most of my

collectors don't care about that sorta thing.. although mine were never wide panos that

might warp more in general. I would never use gatorboard for permanent or semi

permanent work, IMO, I always thought 4 the corners banged up pretty easy. .it would be

expensive but how about using 1/8" aluminium and reinforcing it with 1 inch pieces. It would

probably end up being as heavy as a cheap frame but It looks sharp.

very nice. very clean site. cool work. My tech buddy always warned me about using flash on

my site because new portable devices can't support them. anyhow, good job.

I believe you can still buy it directly off the polaroid site if you carefully navigate. Last time I

checked it was slightly cheaper than B&H. I have always wanted to shoot 8x10 polaroids.

good luck

J

I just got the 58mm and it's awesome. I was thinking about the zeiss zf line but the price

and no chip made me look at the 58mm. the nokton has a really nice build and smooth

bokeh wide open. It a pleasure to shoot with.

here's a link to some quick snaps

http://www.flickr.com/groups/fujis5/discuss/72157603575291716/

type 51 is P/N and is in the process of being discontinued. I have never used it but I heard it's

extremely contrasty. I wish fuji would start making a version of the type 55 film.

my lab explained to me a long time ago that a good drum scan and a lightjet at 300-400dpi

would be far superior in terms of sharpness and overall clarity compared to traditional

printing. I thought they were just being lazy, but now I believe them. I bet you could put a

flier up at a local college and a photo grad student would do it. Sorry, I don't know of any

pro labs that offer this though.

good luck

I agree, I sold my d200 after a week shooting the s5. If you shoot weddings or portraits,

you should at least rent this to see if you like it. My only gripe is for magazine work . If they

crop a shot by 33% for publication it starts to break up. For weddings, my clients rarely

order a 16x24 and it can easily pull that size with good glass. The RAW files are ridiculious

in size, but the jpegs hold their own. converted B&W files look awesome.

Ther mamiya 7 is one of my favorite cameras. It doesn't focus close and it's lenses are slow(

well not compare to LF). It could probably deliver decent results at that size with slow film

but probably not handheld on an overcast day. A tiny backpacking LF lens, the nikon 135 5.6

. You will also have to decide what the intended viewing distance for your prints will be ie.

scrutinized very close in a gallery setting or from a few feet away in your den.

good luck

Joeseph, you are probably better off. Photogs get $325(2nd camera)- $500 (first

camera) per wedding if you are confirmed photog. and you have to take their mandatory

tutorials beforehand, which could be as far away as 100+ miles away. .no compensation

for training or time in the beginning. My girlfriend tried to convince me that this is a

decent day rate,too. Well, she also has never shot a large wedding. So, no, I don't feel that

is a fair rate. If you were starting out in wedding photography it may not be a bad idea,

better than flipping burgers in the summer, I guess. I had them remove me from their

database after I sent a formal grievance. They vice president repeatedly kept bring up

some dude who shot Tom cruises wedding to add to their credibility. I know work is

scarce but let hope that guy got a check for more than $375.

you get up to $325(second camera) $500(1st camera) per wedding if you are confirmed

photog. You have to take their mandatory unpaid tutorials beforehand, which could be as

far away as 100+ miles away. .no compensation for training or time. My girlfriend tried to

convince me that this is a decent day rate,too. Well, she also has never shot a large

wedding. So, no, I don't feel that is a fair rate. If you were starting out in wedding

photography it may not be a bad idea, better than flipping burgers in the summer, I

guess. I had them remove me from their database after I sent a formal grievance. they

repeatedly kept bring up some dude who shot Tom cruises wedding to add to their

credibility. I know work is scarce but let hope that guy got a check for more than $375.

I hope that most of you will upgrade to the d3 so that I can pick up your used d2x on

ebay for under $2000.:) I have always wanted a d2x for studio work and it will be a perfect

companion to my low light marvel s5.

Bill, a very cryptic art book commission. you know, nonrepresentational drawing with

burning rubber.