ted_adamczyk2

I fully appreciate your great responses. Generally, I shoot in manual mode, use the camera meter as a simple check, but rely on my Sekonic L558 for true metering. Also generally use Velvia 50 (when you can get it anymore in the states) or 100 ASA for landscape work.

 

I bracket to get a satisfactory shot, but not an exceptional one, with the polarizer. And also waste a good bit of film in doing so. My basic problem, as mentioned above by a number of you, is over-polarization.

 

Perhaps it boils down to learning to use the Mamiya filtering sequence better, however, I just do not trust the camera meter all that much when it comes to polarizer use.

 

All suggestions based upon your experience are very welcomed. Again, I thank you.

 

Ted

Exposures are excellent without the polarizer, whether in manual or auto.

Excellent responses. I generally compensate by altering aperture or shutter speed as David Henderson indicated above because at 70 I do have the tendency to forget and leave compensation in place after I am done. I am wondering if Stuart's recommendation to always use the "comp" dial on the M7ii is a better procedure. Do you folks just use the dial or adjust by altering shutter speed, etc.? I never had any problems with my RZ67, but that of course is a TTL.

In using both, the polarizer sold for the Mamiya 7ii camera, as well as the BK

Glass Polarizer, results are always too dark and over saturated with the 43 mm

and 150 mm lens at 2 stops allowance. Open to any and all ideas as to how to

resolve this.

 

Thanks,

 

Ted

What is the most cost-effective color-managed LCD monitor for fine art work

with a Microtek or Nikon Scanner (mediumm format photography)? Open to all your

comments and suggestions.

Willie,

Try Image Innovations Inc., at www.slidescribe.com or call toll free 800-345-4118. I picked up a large number of mounts there recently. Very good to work with.

Ted

Thanks George. This is what I was searching for.

What is the basic relationship between scan size and print size? For example,

100 MB generally produces a good 16" x 20" print. Will going to 200 MB be worth

the additional effort/cost? How about prints sized greater than this, e.g., 18"

x 24", 20" x 24", 30" x 40"? Appreciate knowing what you have found from

experience?

Ellis and Godfrey, I appreciate your response. The Nikon 9000 looks like a great scanner solution, however I am tied into "tons" of PC software (you know what I mean) and wish to not go the "MAC" route. Any computer/monitor recommendations on the PC side? Thanks again.

Looking to upgrade my computer, monitor and scanner (medium format

photographer). I have researched this for some time and still have many

questions. I am very open to the experience of others who have gone through

this. What system have you found to be the best for your editing as well as

having good results with color management in processing? Your help is

appreciated.

Thanks for the information. Truely appreciate it.

Ted

Easy question for many of you experienced folks, but it is troubling me. If a

laptop computer only has a 4-pin 1394 connection, will connecting to a (6-pin

interface) film scanner with a 4to6-pin cable degrade the scanner's

capabilities or performance? Many thanks for your comments.

Allen, Check out the "Flagg Ranch Resort" in Moran, WY. It is between Yellowstone and the Tetons. All types of arrangements, from cabins to tents. Ted

Allen, This question has been answered numerous times on this site. Suggest that you do a search on "Grand Teton." You will come up with many ideas including the Snake River Overlook, Signal Mountain, etc. Ted

At mamiya.com go to the "site map," then "customer service," "instruction manuals," and finally "6x7". This will take you to the downloads for the early RZ67s that you are searching for.

In response to your question, ABSOLUTELY. There are many sources of information. If you are shooting B/W do a "google" search on "zone." If you shoot slides, do the search on "ChromaZone" as a starting point. Good luck.

Go to the Mamiya site (mamiya.com) and download the respective camera manual (RZ67 Pro or Pro II). The sections on "Troubleshooting" should provide all information that you need. Best of luck.

Aaron, suggest that you go to the RZ67 Forum at the Mamiya site (mamiya.com). Under "Search", enter "prism viewfinder", etc. You should get most of your questions about your new camera answered there.

Good luck.

Trace, I have used the FE701 Prism Finder on my Pro II for about four years and find it better than 90% accurate. Exceeded my expectations. I also consider its metering system capabilities and LED displays to be fairly accurate, as in most cases when doing landscape I always compare to my Sekonic L-558 meter, the Bible for all my cameras.

Ted

Not sure if you have the Pro or Pro II. When you took it out of the emergency shutter operation scenario did you place the shutter release button in its proper position (aligned with the white dot)? Also try moving the "M/R" lever to the "R" position, and push the cocking lever gently. This can fix any realignment problems between the film advance and film holder, if this is the problem. Not sure of your setup. Do you have an AE finder attached, RB lens mounted, etc. Provide additional details.

Note that all filters reduce the amount of light entering a camera, thus the polarizer will reduce light intensity by up to two (2) stops, depending upon the degree of rotation on the lens. If you use a hand-held meter, remember to factor this in. Filter factors should be available with the information that you received with your polarizing filter. With TTL, this will be automatically be taken cared of.

 

A mentioned above, the filter will enable colors to become more saturated, offering improved contrast.

I will definitely agree with Leslie's comments above, no matter who is paying for the equipment. Firms like KEH back up their products and will assist you if you have a problem with anything that you purchased. In any auction program, its a "crap shoot." You "may" get great deals or many problems.

I suggest as a start that you search the National Register of Historic Places, www.cr.nps.gov/nr/ or the states historic preservation listings at www.cr.nps.gov/nr/shpolist.htm. Years ago I came across a gentleman on the east coast, US, who compiled a similar list, but cannot remember the name. A "google" search on historic churches may give you additional leads.

Simon,

 

A second comment. Search the "Wedding and Social Event Photography" forum in photo.net. You may gain valuable insight from those who have been there.

Ted

Simon, Give consideration to each of the comments made. They are on target. I love my RZ, but I sure would not want to lug it around, hand holding it for hours. As was stated, changing film in the RZ will also take you more time (perhaps missing some good shots) as compared to a rangefinder. I definitely prefer the 7ii when there is action going on. What about lighting/electronic flash? Have you given any thought to this? I seriously would suggest that you research this subject much more before you make any commitments. Best of luck. Ted