zigzag

<p>2. I have a Pentax ME Super, which can mechanically run without batteries, and subsequently without a light meter, so I am forced to use only a shutter speed of 1/125 sec. How could a lay person calculate a decent exposure with, say, 400 ISO film in this situation?<br>

One way to get this may be by "chimping" - stand with the atom bomb at your back and take a photo. You should be able to see your bones as the flash hits you. If it seems a bit dark, halve the distance for the next one. <br>

This is called the "Maralinga" effect (google)</p>

<p>Thanks, I've bought a (Benro) MeFoto C1350Q1 Carbon Fiber- which should work with my RRS L.<br>

Also, I found a cheap adapter for Lee on eBay so I am hopeful this will let me use my 100mm GNDs. I think that''s me on my way.</p>

Thanks - I have found the Benro

MeFoto range of travel tripods which

look compact (with an integral

monopod).

 

The large filters with an adaptor will be

worth a try for me.

<p>Q1: I bought an X-E1 to complement my Canon 5D-II and for travel. The RRS BXE-1 set (http://tinyurl.com/mmplr29) gives me a hand grip and puts the lens axis over the tripod mount point. Does anyone have any recommendations for a light travel tripod for everyday travel (backpacking)? I have seen this one: <a href="http://www.3leggedthing.com/keith.html">http://www.3leggedthing.com/keith.html</a>. <br>

Q2: I have the Lee Filter system (100mm) for my Canon. I have seen the smaller RF75 system but is anyone using the larger 100mm x 150mm GND filters with these mirrorless cameras (with adapter). And if so, what is your experience? (i.e. I don't want to buy two sets/sizes of filters so does anyone have any comments on using these oversize filters on the small cameras.) </p>

 

<p>I'd take it and use it to try some timelapse stuff - run that shutter into the dust while you try something different.</p>

<p>Thanks again. Leicas are out of my price range. I do like this review, including Leica though: http://zackarias.com/for-photographers/gear-gadgets/fuji-x100s-review-a-camera-walks-into-a-bar/</p>

<p>Thanks. I know you are right on 'too much'. When I went for a year, with PWs and two flashes I hardly used them (twice, maybe). Strobistry is difficult when you're moving every day. But in S.America without a tripod - what a mistake when I couldn't buy one and even worse when I bought a bad one. I'm going to enjoy myself, I enjoy photography. I really missed having a low light lens when shooting monks in Laos - missed the shot t 05:30 in Luang Prabang - and hard to get back there in a hurry.<br>

One bag is the rule (+ tripod.) Here's me trying to get it all in for a previous long trip: <img src="http://tinyurl.com/c9t6nkk" alt="" /> . <br>

Michael, that's really good information. I've been looking at that camera for a while - real world experience is very useful. I wonder if there'll be a newer version soon with improvements. I am leaning to sticking with the 5DII - and I take on board the lens comments - a 24-105mm would be better than the 24-70mm for travelling, sure - I won't be buying one of those though. <br>

I like the thought of the lightweight kit - it's a lot to start again collecting lenses. I'm starting to procrastinate :-)</p>

<p>I've seen the SL1, a smaller unit yes. I had hopes for the EOS-M before it came out but it's a bottom end, featureless compared to the OM-D E5 etc. An EOS-M v2 that could focus faster, allow more manual control and supply a viewfinder and in-body IS (very unlikely). There'll always be the next gen along. EOS compatibility would be a big plus. I'm checking out the others too (like the X-E1)</p>

<p>Thanks. I'll be travelling in July (flights booked). I have lugged the 5DII on a 1 year RTW trip before. If I take that then I'd look at the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 maybe. This would make the travel kit: <br /> Canon 16-35mm, Sigma 85mm, 70-200mm f/4, CF tripod, ND filters. Then I'd want to take the 24-70mm, 580ex, wireless triggers, ... Same issues ... weight and travel.</p>

<p>So, I have a 5DMkII, 50mm f/1.4, 24-70mm, 70-200mm f/4, 16-35mm. I'm going to Burma. I want more shots like this: <strong> </strong>http://tinyurl.com/cj2rs4b.<strong> </strong> I'll be using a backpack and all the photo gear would go in a Lowepro Flipside 300. Low light is an issue (on the street).<br>

Weight is not my first concern but I'm wondering, would now be a good time to consider Micro 4/3? Specifically the Olympus OM-D E-5. Getting everything in a bag for daily movement is a consideration.<br>

To manage the low light and bokeh I am thinking of the Canon 85mm f/1.8, the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 for my 5DII. I'd take that instead of the 50mm.<br>

If I went to the Olympus, I'd get the M Zuiko 45mm f/1.8. I know the Olympus has a crop factor of around 2 and the DOF would not be as acute.<br>

So, reasons for the Olympus would be size/weight, less conspicuous, more in the bag, 5 axis IS.<br>

What would I be giving up - and how significant would it be? Am I about to spend a lot of cash just to save a few pounds? Does anyone own the Olympus as well?</p>

<p>The App I use the most on the iPhone is 'Stopwatch' for bulb mode - works in the dark. Otherwise I use the ephemeris, shralp tide tables and weather. I also have snapseed but so far have never used it. I also used Flashlight once.</p>

Looks like a major disappointment to me. Not worth putting off buying the OM-D E5 past Monday if this is what we get,

<p>I assume with the odin and Canon you are looking for full ETTL capability - something PWIIs don't give you (e.g.) I haven't done all the research but the reviews are available:<br>

Canon: <a href="http://pixsylated.com/blog/speedlite-600ex-buttons-dials/">http://pixsylated.com/blog/speedlite-600ex-buttons-dials/</a><br>

Odin: <a href="../equipment/phottix/odin/ttl-flash-trigger-review/">http://www.photo.net/equipment/phottix/odin/ttl-flash-trigger-review/</a><br>

PW Flex: <a href="../equipment/pocket-wizard/flex-tt5-mini-tt1-review/">http://www.photo.net/equipment/pocket-wizard/flex-tt5-mini-tt1-review/</a><br>

The Jim Heine review above does show up some limitations/quirks that I would want clarified. I'll leave you to pick what you want from the sources.</p>

<p>The Canon 5D MkII was recently the second most common camera type to be used on flickr - a site largely used by hobbyists:<br>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/cameras">http://www.flickr.com/cameras</a> The most popular is an expensive phone.<br>

Expense is relative. Price is soon forgotten.</p>

Thanks Marcus, I've been trying. I get worse results with the outer focus points. Centre point is better. With the dominant light being flash I should be effectively using flash speed (let's say 1/400 with a hot flash) so physics tells me I should be able to hand hold my 200mm lens without too much problem. I'm using f/4 or more.

 

Maybe I need to practice my technique more - focus, recompose, stay still, softly depress shutter.

 

The ST-E2/3 would allow me to use ETTL,HSS and 2nd curtain sync. I haven't been impressed with the infrared ST-E2 but I understand the new one uses Wi-Fi

 

I'd rather not go out and spend money but there must be a reason for that second generation IS.

<p>Thanks Leo, I've been using Live View, tripod, manual focus with landscapes but have never thought of using the combination with the more dynamic people. Maybe thats an answer.<br>

<br /> One other combination problem I also think I may be seeing is that using third party wireless triggers for OCF I am not getting second curtain sync and of course this is not moot if balancing flash with ambient?<br>

<br /> So, the most flexible/reliable solution may be to throw money at the problem but you have given me a more economic solution.<br>

Actually, thinking about it further, another improvement could be the ST-E3 and the new wireless flashes - HSS, second curtain, extended range, $$$ (?)</p>

<p>I have a 5D MkII and a 70-200mm f/4L (non IS) and I shoot OCF, usually using a 1/160s sync speed as 1/200s can sometimes show shutter black lines on the 5DII. I shoot people, e.g. :<br>

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7275/7010732245_d03506bd47_z.jpg<br>

I have my focusing set to auto, tied to the '*' button to focus on request. I try to use the outer focus points to attain focus and then recompose or sometimes the centre point only, focus and recompose. I am of the opinion that the outer focus points, even though they beep to say they attained focus don't really seem to do the job (I know they are not cross point sensors.) I want reliable focus on the eyes, maybe in low light. <br>

Which of these options would give me most 'bang for the buck' (but may cost me money) in the short term:<br>

a. Concentrate on steady holding technique, a 1/160s sync for a 200mm lens doesn't quite meet the criteria of 1/focal length for a 'steady' shot with a non IS lens. This is significant when balancing ambient with flash light.<br>

b. Get the 70-200mm f/2.8 IS lens (up to 4 stops of steadiness for me but not the subject).<br>

c. Get the 5DMkIII which has all those extra cross point sensors but the same sync speed.<br>

i.e. how far do you think that slowing down, not breathing and making sure I am still will help me or am I just technology limited by the incorrect focus? <br>

I have been thinking of getting the IS lens but could I just end up with the same issue (but own a very nice new lens)?<br>

How would you go about solving the reliable off-centre focus issue?</p>

<p>So Tamron put IS in their new 24-70mm, it has been rumoured in this Canon lens for years. What happened? <a href="http://news.cnet.com/8301-30685_3-57371808-264/tamrons-24-70mm-lens-takes-image-stabilization-lead/">http://news.cnet.com/8301-30685_3-57371808-264/tamrons-24-70mm-lens-takes-image-stabilization-lead/</a></p>

<p>Models can't see what you are seeing. They can't see the frame, they can't see what light is falling on them, they can't see your vision and they don't know what your lenses etc do to their image. For this reason you need to direct. A good/experienced model will know how to pose and will know how she looks good / has looked good in the past and may buy into a concept. (S)he may help you but at the end of the day you are the one looking through the viewfinder or at the screen at the time the shot is taken and (S) cannot see the frame from your point of view. The ultimate responsibility is therefore yours for the product. As Michael says, models may have a set of poses they do which you may fine tune - head up etc as you see the light fall. Often I may ask a model to give me a set of moves along a particular them and then slightly modify as we go along - with a good model this is quick and simple - and often they surprise me with the poses they bring that I wouldn't have thought of.</p>

<p>Google have just added the capability to search for your images by just dragging and dropping them onto the Google images search bar. This exceeds Tin Eye capability I believe.<br>

I Australia we have some 'Free Photo Guides' which are websites about local areas - depends on volunteer input.</p>

 

<p>Here's what I carried around for the 8 months (photo for insurance purposes.) I didnt use the PWs more than once. <img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4665224892_e3dacd0d3d_m.jpg" alt="" width="240" height="189" /><br>

We weren't out clubbing much at night (too knackered) and I was never in a dorm room. Either of those two things would I think increase your chances of being randomly robbed by a large factor - same as they would if you were backpacking around Australia.</p>

<p>I was in Argentina, Peru, Equador, Brazil, Galapagos, Chile last June for 2.5 months backpacking with my 5D, 16-35mm, 70-200mm, 24-70mm, tripod. I travelled around by bus mostly, we stayed in backpackers but always had a private room. I removed any obvious labels from my bag and sometimes at night I took out just a G-11. I was warned by the police on at least 4 occassions not to flash my camera about in public. This happened in Cuba too. My backpack was the Lowepro that only has zips on the inside ( you have to take it off to open it.) I often wandered around with my 5DII inside my jacket and was very aware of flashing it around.<br>

On the high plains of Bolivia and the salt flats near Uyuni I was very glad to have my 'good' gear for a once in a lifetime opportunity.<br>

I did not get mugged, held up at knifepoint, stared at, threatened, or even feel endangered. YMMV. <br /> I would take the 5DII et all if I went again. The whole shebang was heavy and I often carried it around all day because I didn't want to leave it back at the accommodation. Probably the only thing we lost was my wife's gold ring which went missing while in a safe in Rio.<br /> It can be a dangerous area. I wanted to take photos and the need to be vigilant probably affected my creativity but I was taking Gigabytes of photos every day, this was of more interest to me than knowing that my shiny camera was safely tucked up in Brisbane. On my whole 8 month tour I did lose a lens hood (at Oktoberfest in Munich) but that was because I took my 5DII with me promising myself I would not be drinking (at Oktoberfest) - there is no cure for stupidity.</p>

<p>Here's another status for Canon & Nikon...<br>

http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/content_page.asp?cid=7-11314-11352</p>

<p>If　you　can get there before sunrise or stay after sunset then　can get some wonderful colour in the sky using longer exposures. Before the sun comes up the sky can contain a wonderful blue that you may noｔ　necessarily recognise with the naked eye. Try Bulb mode with the camera on a tripod and a cable release.　　Ｄｅｐｅｎｄｉｎｇ　ｏｎ　ｈｏｗ　ｄａｒｋ　ｉｔ　ｉｓ　ｗｈｅｎ　ｙｏｕ　ｓｔａｒｔ　ｙｏｕ　may　ｈａｖｅ　ｔｏ　ｌｏｃｋ　ｔｈｅ　ｃａｂｌｅ　ｒｅｌｅａｓｅ　ｓｈｕｔｔｅｒ　ｏｐｅｎ　ｆｏｒ　１ or 2 minutes (play around with it and see what you get.) You might want o turn on LENR too and use Live View for manual focusing.</p>

<p>Who or what decides who is great ?<br>

History. Work as hard as you like, feel what you feel, share what you share. Unless you touch others it goes nowhere. You might find a better way to push it but the best sells itself. Sometimes this means 'going viral' - touching many and other times it means strongly affecting one. Consistency may turn the fluke into a series, chance may play its part but the stuff that stops you in your tracks is a good place to start. For all the technology, a good dose of humanity may be a key component. Greats are of their time, before or after but they are never the same as the crowd - simple derivatives need not apply.</p>