scribble.wymer

crap, misread the number of numbers...

 

1946 Leica IIIc...

 

Still, a good camera!

hm, your quite right! acording to the list, its a Leica I, produced in 1930! I was going on another list sent to me by a friend.

 

Thanks for the link! Now to see which list is true...

I recently came across this little gem, serial number 4092**, and after very

very little internal debate, bought this camera. Its shutter is off (very off)

under 1/200, but for $20 CAD, how could you lose?

 

Anyways, I want to get the shutter repaired, and add this gem to my insurance

policy, as its just too good not to use for street work and hiking.

 

So how much would this be worth, and how much (and where) would it be to give it

a full repair?

 

Thanks guys!

Steven

Hey, i use MF for models all the time, and these lenses look very very interesting esp for a

D2Hs. Follow me here. The colour cast that these lenses had on film, now put that over the

D2Hs sensor. Those images would be unbelievable. One flaw i see, all my zeiss for my

M6TTL, painfully sharp. While many like this, its so harsh on people. I still use a 43-86

wide open because it gives a good blur to "Help" with peoples skin. Works great for

wrinkled old and pimply teens. So that feature, im not to thrilled about.

 

And for those who say AF is neciscary.. My god. How did we exist before the 1970s! Must

be some horrid images from back then. And if you acually look at sport and race

photohgraphers, watch them. They use one of the oldest tricks out there. Pre-Focus. Try

it. And if you cant use a MF lens, you should retire now...

 

Im still on the fence here though. I prefer these lenses over Nikkor couterparts, but is it

worth the cost?

 

I still love my Cosina/Voigtlander lenses in F mount. Works perfectly every time, and if the

lens "Backfocuses", i know who to blame.

At that length, VR is mostly detrimental. It causes the internal element to shift, and therefore

CREATES blur, not reducing it. If held to lengths under a second, it can be a great tool,

depending on length at which you shoot. But really, it can be most harmful as well.

Its a wonderful lens, and its much smaller than the 70-200 VR, but truth be told, most

peoples first f/2.8 zoom is the 80-200, and then most see no reason to get the 180 as they

already have a lens for that range. But if you travel somehwat light, or dont want the huge

70-200 VR all the time, it is a beautiful lens.

Possible, but not good, try the tokina, but it will only be an EF-S design, i can promise you that.

The Tokina was slower, but at wide angle, they are both near instant anyways, so that doesnt really matter, just the noise levels, as the tokinais a bit louder. However, it was sharper by a wide margin on the samples i tried, so i went tokina and neveer looked back. The built is phenominal.

 

And on the topic of FF nikon, nikon and fuji have both put ALL research into the DX sensor, there will never be a FF Nikon or Fuji. Fuji has stated already that FF sensors are a fad for the transition, and dont hold their value.

Could the SP350's flash shoe meter and fire with a nikon sb-600, or does it need

an olympus flash unit only?

Yes, the Nikon D50 just feels wrong to me, i like the bodies of the better models, but the lower bodied D50 just doesnt feel like a nikon! besides, thats 55g is a lot on a week long hike!

What is the diffrence between the models of the *ist models? I am really

confudes as to the main diffrences. I shoot Nikon cameras, but for outdoor work,

i could really use a very light body, and pentax seems to fit that bill

perfectly. Besides, the lenses are quite a bit cheaper on average!

I recently moved, and i was wondering if anyone knows of any good camera stores

here in canada?

I already have a sigma 14mm for my nikon d200. But on a recent trip to the

badlands, the amount of flaring became a problem. The tokina 12-24mm does not

have this issue, and i was wondering about switching lenses. Is this a good

move, or should i hold onto the 14mm?

The Nikon F5 film based slr cound have its mount modified to accept any pre-AI

lens, and i think the f100 could as well. Is there any way to get a mount

modification to leth the ancient pre-AI's to mount onto our modern DSLRs?

 

Uncoated lenses from the 1950s still hold a unique look for portraits, and i was

wondering if there is any way to acieve this look with a dslr. so far, i can

only do this with the epson R-D1 and leica screw mounts. however, the

conventional SLR is much more adaptable that rangefinders ever were.