raphael_emond1

Quote : " For now, since the 5D is the 99% same camera as the D30,"

 

Yeah... way to go fan boy :)

Just a little clarification, the Canon 24-85mm feature USM and FTM.

Every lens that have "Ring USM" have FTM.

The lens having "Micro-USM" as the 75-300 USM variant, does not have the FTM function. This lens have the AF motor physically linked with the focusing ring that turn when focusing.

 

The important thing with FTM, is not turning the lens focus ring at the same time as the AF motor... Weird sounds!

A 16Gb card can store 1600+RAW files... Which is a lot if the card broke/lost while in vacation.

You will be better to replace the card with 2x8Gb or 4x4Gb.

Personnaly, I prefer 4Gb card. Safer.

 

But for your problem, it was the same with computers ages ago.

The first limit for HDD was 2Gb, next 8Gb, next 137Gb...

I think the camera as the 8Gb max problem, which is a memory controller problem. I don't think a 16Gb will work in your 20D.

Technically, you can't use the canon teleconverter with this lens.

Some 3rd party converter will mount, but either the AF will stop to work or become erratic.

 

The problem is the 70-300 is f5.6 at 300mm. with a 1.4x it will become a f/8, the 2x at f/11. Camera like the XTI, can only focus down to f/5.6. I'm afraid that for longer, quality reach, they are no cheap alternatives than a good 400mm+ lens.

 

The only cheap lens is the Sigma 50-500.

On my 24-105L, the start-up time is null. Don't see the point to turn off IS even at higher shutter speed. I turn it off only when panning/tripod.

 

And image quality wise, it should be the same since the glass elements are still in the light path IS on or off.

And since the AF system is the same on both camera, the difference is really only the FPS.

You must calculate the effectiveness of IS from the 1/focal rule.

So if at 200mm, you should start at 1/320s. 3 Stop slower is around 1/60-1/40s for 200mm focal.

 

I find that on the 24-105L, the limit of IS tend to be in the 1/10-1/20s. Below that it became a lot less usefull.

Under fluorescent lighting, it's quite possible. The faster the shutter, the worse the problem. Try to stick to 1/60 or 1/120s

I'm afraid no. Using other 3rd party t-con is possible. Check for models that don't have a protruding front-end that goes into the lens.

Return it? , sell it, or buy a compatible Sigma lens like the 70-200

It's a combo between high ISO and AI Servo. The constant focusing motor cause interference with the sensor electronic.

The MFD of the Canon 70-200 2.8L is more like 4,9'

 

But I can't answer your question, since I do not own a 500D close-up filter.

Your photo was shot at 1,3sec. Try it again with bounced flash at 1/60s or better.

Mine is sharper that that wide open, and at f10, it's awesome. Even in the corners. Maybe you should send it to sigma for calibration?

I was never deceived by mine. Color/contrast/sharpness/focus, everything is superb.<div></div>

You can shoot the sun with it. Not for 15min though.

Don't worry, a class 1-3 Laser would not damage anything in you camera. And overexposing a light source is common and safe.

 

Don't worry too much. I have shoot welding arc with mine, and the rays are more powerfull than a little laser pointer without a hitch.

If you can stretch your budget, the Sigma 12-24 work on fullframe camera. But other than the russian fisheye (forgot the name) you will not find a cheap wide angle prime. And for your cockpit photos, 10-12mm is what you need. Or 16-17mm on FF

But it shows the real difference between 300 and 400 mm, and the sharpness of each lens.

 

Not scientific, but somewhat representative of the differences.

If it was me, I would bring the primes. Nothing better to train your composition. And leave the 580ex at home. You need the flash, the batteries, the charger. To much weight for the small percentage of usage in my case. I would prefer more card space or an image tank.

The list of options that make a difference is big.

Just think of instant start, FEC in body, AI Servo in all modes

Faster Card writes, bigger buffer.

I tried a 300D once, and found it lacking in important options

compared to my 350D.

 

But the 350D->400D upgrade is not really worth it.

But from a 300D, it's no brainer. And you have good glass to backup

this new body.

Just for the sake of faster startup, better buffer, and additional functions compared to the 300D, the change is worth it.

Better AF, and in the last, megapixels,( but don't make it your buying priority)

Put your lens on Manual Focus mode. Sometimes, the camera won't fire if it doesn't have focus confirmation. Use your lens cap to capture a dark frame.

Seems like you need a new shutter assembly. It's a common problem on the original Drebel. You need to send it back to canon and have it repaired. How many shot do you have on it?

"entry DSLRs now have better AF systems- 400D"

 

the AF system in the 400D is the same as the 30D, and one of

the best on this range of price.

 

f/2.8 and faster lens have better accuracy than on others models

the 20D/30D/400D use this type of focusing

 

Normally, if the AF system cannot focus because of lowlight, it's too

dark to shoot anyway. If you need flash, it provide the AF assist beam.

I have noted some wrong info in that article. So be aware...

BUT..... if you check all sample pictures made by the 400D, you will notice that they are less sharp than any other canon body. I can<t find a 100% logical answer to this, but it looks like they have done a resampling in PS!

 

So I will keep my 350D just because of that....

Personnaly, the last time I was at the zoo, I used the 100-300 range

more than anything else.. So, I don't know your zoos, but here, I would be terribly deceived if I was using a 400mm prime.