benradvanyi

<p>The last time that sort of thing happened to me it was the shutter beginning to break. It started to slow down making the exposures longer even though the metering said it was taking a photo that was much faster. Longer exposures that were metered around 1/15 or slower were fine, but when I set the camera to above 1/250 or faster it wasn't able to keep up.<br>

This may not be your problem, but this was what happened to me with the same circumstances.<br>

Hope this helps.</p>

<p>I know that the camera will make a new folder is normal. But I am confused to why it let me take ovar 100 images between 9999 and 0001 and why there are completely missing. Data recovery did nothing, just pulled up images that I already had from the card and a bunch of past stuff. Didn't do back up for this show, went out last night and picked up 8 gigs of SD cards to try not to let it happen again. But a bigger question is that if it did this to the CF card won't the same thing happen to the SD card because it is an exact back up of the CF card? Thanks every one for the input.</p>

<p>I have a 1D IIn body and was shooting with it today. I was shooting a very high class horse show that was very important but a lot of files went missing. I was looking at all the files that made it onto the memory card and there is a 8 minute gap in between photos of where the missing files are supposed to be. The files are also numbered from 9999 then it went back to 0001 on a new folder but there are probably 100 images missing. Any one have any idea what happened?<br>

Thanks<br>

Ben</p>

It is not a lens that I would really want now if it came out because I am using 1D series cameras. But what would be great for the aps-c sensor users a 1.6x but reversed. So basically a 1.6 divider in a sense. So in theory it would make a 300mm f4 a 300mm f2.8 at full aps-c frame. 300 divided by 1.6 times 1.6 crop. In theory it would work to make a 300mm f4 into a f2.8 for aps-c but I am not sure how well they could make the optics for the IQ or if it would even really work to sctually make a lens faster. Any one have thoughts on this?

I run with a 500mm f4, (sigma) 120-300mm 2.8, 80-200mm 2.8, 24-70mm 2.8, (sigma) 10-20mm 4-5.6, and the 50mm 1.4. Looking to get a 400mm 2.8 shortly. 120-300, 500, and the 24-70 are my favorites.

 

Ben

I recently recieved a 1D (mark I) body and need to know how or what I need to hook it up to my computer. There

also seems to be some personal functions that I can't figure out how to control. Can anyone help me out.

 

Thanks

Ben

How can I get 40D raw images to work with Photoshop CS2? Does anyone know how to do this?

 

Thanks

Ben

Is this the older medal mound 50mm 1.8? I have played around with one in the past and they do not work with newer DSLRs. If it is a newer one(plastic) you may have an issue with the actual diaphram sticking open or the lens being faulty. No offense but this is what happens with buying lenses off of ebay. People are there to get rid of their faulty equipment. It has happened to me where I got a faulty sigma 120-300 2.8 and sigma wasn't able to fix it. It is a hard loss but you have to suck it up. At least you only got a $100 lens this time. Hope this helps.

 

Ben

I know that this could probibly get the guy in a lot of trouble if the photos got out, but couldn't the photographer just do a recovery of the memory card and get all the photos that he deleted? I find it funny that people think that once you delete a photo from your camera/memory card that they think it is gone forever. Anyone have input on this?

Thanks for the thoughts.

I just got a sigma 120-300mm 2.8 off of ebay for a great price (1400 USD).

But I am having a little trouble with the lens back focusing. What should I

do? Can the lens be calabrated and do I need to send it in for servising? I

know this has happened to other people but I was wondering what every one

thought. Stunning lens for the price, I love the images that come out of it,

but I need it to focus properly. Thanks for your input.

 

-Ben Radvanyi