tom_matus1

You might want to test that "Thick" skin to see if it really is as think as you think it is....

 

Tom

All I can tell you is three HORROR stories with good ole' Nikon and I could careless what is said about 5 yr warranties! CUSTOMER SERVICE AT NIKON IS TREEIBLE! Phhheeewwww... There I got that off my chest. Their customer service is the number one reason I sold everything I owned of Nikon and bought Canon!

 

BTW... If a lens is handled correctly, not babied, Handled correctly, all L series lens are built well enough that they shouldn't have to be serviced that often. If you use the lens enough, a year is adequate to find out of there are any problesm. JMHO...

 

Tom

John,

 

Where did you get that cone for yoru flash? I can't seem to find one..

 

Thank you,

 

Tom

 

PS.... Great Bee

Well I can tell you that I HAD the D200 and the D2X and sold them both. While they were good for the studio, I was very dissapointed with the preformance, focusing speed and the lens. ( Yes I had good optics but do not compare to what I am shooting within the Canon Lineup.) You have made a good choice. I would not own a nikon pro series camera becuase of many reasons and they aren't what they used to me. Stick with Canon. Customer service and equipment quality are far superior. I do not want to make it a pizzin' match but I can honestly say been there, bought and sold that!

"THe MP race is only a marketing gimmick not a decision maker for more informed shooters. THere are MANY factors that more serious shooters consider when purchasing a NEW camera but, few will change systems once they have invested in lenses and accessories"

 

BINGO... It's just a MegaPixel marketing scam/race and the real 'SHOOTERS' know the difference. Nikon can not handle the sensor manufacturering as they have to second source that from Sony. Their quaility is far from what it used to be and Canon is far superior in many aspects. How do I know... I just sold a D200 and D2X with 3 lens's and bought into the CANON system. The IS L series len's alone are worth the change. That 40D is nothing more than a starter kit for Costco! Might be a good marketing campaign for bottom line that will cut into the xTi line... time will tell. I will still keep shooting this old, (2 months now) old of date, cropped camera body I have and try to wear it out.... Isn't it about getting out in the field and taking photo instead of worrying about what new camera is coming out? All the bells and whistles ain't gunna make you a better photogragpher!

Interesting conversation, but, it's all moot when it really boils down to the most basic components.... PROFIT MARGIN AND GAIN for CANON and they most likely won't do that until forced to by competitors or they are bored.... funny how some threads take off and some sit stagnant.... This has been fun to read...

Thank you for the responses so far... Yes, I can take photos, that is not an issue at this show, actually any of the shows I attend, it's OK with the committee's putting the show on to take photos. I am looking at a 50mm 1.4f now and now a ring flash has a couple of votes. Is there one specific model that is better than another? Getting close to the subject is not and issue.

 

Brian, Your comment, "Fire on one side intrigues me..." What model would do that?

 

Leopold, I understand that flash is unwanted in gallerys, but I can see how it would hurt... I know that UV protection is ususally added a finishing step, but, I think that taking the photos is a copyright issue more than hurting the photo. I could be wrong but I can't see how it's goign to affect the paint. What have you heard?

I presently own a D30 100/400 IS L and a 17-85 EF IS L lens and want to take

close up shots of art work, scuplture and wood carvings. I want to capture the

detail and colors, but most of the time the subjects are poorly lit and you

can not take them from where they are positioned to get better light. ( Isn't

that all of our problems!) So, I have a 580EX but was wondering if a ring

flash would help? Are they worth the xtra few bucks or would a lens be more

beneficial. If it's a combination of lens/flash just post that and I will

investigate the cost later, but I hate to know that I could get good shots

becuase of equipment.

 

Thanks in advance...

yes this will fit, I have a battery grip on my two bodies and it works out just fine. BTW it's a 1550 pelican and not sure the difference in depth but I have plenty left over space.... Good luck with your trip!

Royal Tennebaum huh... I hated that movie....

 

As for the lens, if your close the suggestion above should work OK... or the 70-200mm L F2.8 works well in the situation your described. Sometimes it takes alittle coin to get what you want. No one said this was going to be cheap though....

with all honesty... Point and shots work real good and I am not being mean.... they really do work well for that purpose if you not willing to put the time in to understand and learn the new came. ABC's are essential to build XYZ's... What you trying to are MLNOP's!

Stoli works better.... Bourbon has a tendency to streak!

The real questions should be....

 

What are you going to use it for and how much time will you use it?

How deep are your pockets?

100-400 USM L and I use it with the purchased intentions of leaving it ON! Now mode 1 or 2, that would be a better question. And beleive me when I say it buys you a couple stops... It does! Great lens and just get over the sticker shock!

Despite what some think, when it comes to lens' SIZE DOES MATTER! Had too, it's valentines day! :-) Kidding' aside, I have a friend that has the set up you talking about and it's sharp for what he wants but it's not the best. So if you OK with that.... then that little bit extra might be OK. We have compared teh set uup your talking about with my 100-400mmL series and well, save for that lens, it's a great addition! I love it and with teh 1.4 on there, even though it loses AF, Manaul slows you down and helps you think about composure and other things. ( Not so much point and burst)

If I can sort through some photos, I will try to post them, that is if I haven't all ready recycle bin'd them.

 

Hope this helps...

"Austrailian Outback" Mode.... You made me spew coffee all over my monitor. That gets my vote for comment of the month!

All I know is I just sold all my Nikon equipment becuase I WANTED MY LENS to be white! ( Or what ever color you want to call it) When a black lens is not focusing fast enough, bad mount, lose optics on a 1500$, 80-400VR.... The color has nothign to do with it.... Nikons Quality and Workmanship are terrible and not worth the boxes that are packaged in! The color of the lens is quite moot really....

 

Get over it or better yet, buy a spare card reader for when you travel to Idaho! BWHAhahahahahah

 

Tom Matus

Boise, Idaho

Here is a shot that I took with full charged batteries. Not the greatest light but I was pleased with the outcome.

 

Thanks to all that contributed. Now I don't have to sell it! ( Only kidding...)<div></div>

whelp, I went out a bit later than I thought and the low level light was an issue but both lens worked well and the photos came out good. ALl the options I wanted to use worked and the Delta F6 did not show up, nor did the Blinking EE. So, as you suggested I hit the lens release button and did get similar response. Was that it? Not sure but I think that the combination one low level battery and hitting a wrong button caused the issue. I will try to shoot more images tomorrow morning and see what happens.

 

Funny thing is, i just changed the lens today when this started happening so there is a good chance that was an issue. The roller ball connectors might be an issuse where I will take a look at them from now on prior to connection.

 

Thank you for all the help.

I have another lens and I will use that. Off to test.... Back in a bit for an update...

 

thank you...

 

Tom

I wasn't shooting that many.... do you think that the low batteried might have done this? It's also funny for a while it worked great... then this started to happen. I am in the process of charging again now and will go out and shoot again this evening and let you know if the same thing happens..

 

Thank you for your speedy reply!

 

Tom

I have a problem that is probably operator error, but would like some help if

anyone else has expeienced something like this...

 

Equipment: D200, MB200, 80-400 VR Zooom. No custom settings, I am not

shooting in custom modes. I ususally use Manual, but started off in P this

time becuase I forgot.

 

Operation: For about 25 photos or so, it works well, and then, in the F stop

area of the view find there is a Triangle, like a Delta sign, and a F6. The

speed is real slow and then it shows Speed as about 8 or so. Then, I can not

shoot anymore photos. No AF occurs.

 

Symptoms: The P for Program mode is flashing and if I turn the camera OFF, it

stays powered up. The only way to reset, wait 10 mintues, remove the batteries

and it goes back to shooting normal. I took a few more photos.

Then when this F stop occurs, the camera does not focus! How do I get out of

this mode? I also saw a Blinking EE in the view finder as well.

PS, I know your going to say read your manual but it is at work and don't have

access to it until wednesday. I am traveling.

 

Findings: I found one battery was low, 8% 434 photos and the other was at

about 79%, 72 photos. I thought I might have touched the bracketing button,

but that was not enabled. Am I hitting the AE/AF button by accident?

 

Has anyone else seen this behaovior? I am sure I am the culprit with the

common problem is with operator routine. Is there a way to do a Factory reset

of the camera so that you get the original defaults?

 

Thanks for any help on this...

 

Tom Matus

Boise, Id

I seen this on my D200. I had images in otehr folders that were not removed from the card and I saw low levels on the card size. I just opened all folders on the Camera, then deleted them all. Also, make sure none of them are locked.

 

Hope this helps..

 

Tom Matus

Boise, Idaho

Anita....

 

Funny you should ask... I have been tracking one of my batteries and here are some of my findings. I take them out when I get below 15% or so and here are three of my lower limits and re-charge times.

 

8% left in battery = 1hr 45 min

11% left in battery = 1hr 37 min

12% left in battery = 1hr 30 min

 

Granted I would say I am within a few mintues of catching the "STEADY" light so this are close. I just want to see how long the battery actualyl lasts and what the charge rate is and might be. I have found the batteries last longer than previous P and S's I have had and I am pleased with the preformance. I am also using an MB200 on my D200 which I beleive helps a great deal.

 

I also know some say that you can charge at like 50% or so, I like to run them below 15% and then re charge them if I can help it and having the two batteries in the MB200 helps allot.

 

Are you experiencing long re-charge times? You know, if you having long re-charge times you m ight have a bad charger? Clean all contacts and start to monitor times... this might help you.

 

Good luck,

 

Tom Matus

Boise, ID

I don't see the battery issue like other... I can do about 1200 photos in JPEG and VR on? Granted they are brandy newbie batteries but I do not use the LCD display all that much and think that might be the cuplrit. I might parse a few shots here and there, but if you minimize the VR and Screen, they last longer than you think. But, I am using the MB200.... forgot about that...

 

Lisa, Buy the 200 and just take hte hit. It's not going to get lower anytime soon and it's well worth the money!

 

Tom Matus

Boise, Id