ed_hurst
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Posts posted by ed_hurst
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<p>Thank you both - extremely helpful! (And yes, I did mean on full frame - forgot to mention that)</p>
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<p>Hello all,<br /> <br /> I have a project in mind for which it is important for me to know separately the horizontal and vertical angles of view for the 14-24 (at 14mm). The diagonal angle of view is not useful to me, though if I thought about it properly, I suppose I should be able to work out what I need since I know the aspect ratio. However, definite info. on this would be much appreciated.<br /> <br /> The sources that I have found online only quote the diagonal angle of view.<br /> <br /> All assistance gratefully received!<br /> <br /> Ed</p>
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I second the suggestion to try taking these '.TIF' files and changing the file name extension to .NEF, then trying to open them in Nikon's own software and/or other raw converters. I had a similar situation a few years back when I had a corrupted drive recovered and it worked with most of the files (interestingly the file sizes were being reported as much larger than that of actual raw files, but it still worked).
Worth a try - let us know how you get on. Good luck!
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<p>Hi Glen,</p>
<p>Looks like 6 is a PC-only product, but they have ACDSee Pro 3 Mac - I will see if that performs the same task. Thanks for the heads-up!<br /><br /><br>
Ed</p>
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<p>I am running a Mac, so the Windows Explorer method won't work for me...</p>
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<p>Thank you all so much for your ideas - I will look into them.</p>
<p>JDM - I do have my files in the same folder, but I have found now ay of filtering the results by aperture, shutter speed/exposure. Are you sure this is possible, and if so, could you perhaps advise me how please?</p>
<p>Warmest regards,</p>
<p>Ed</p>
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<p>Solutions using other software would also be most welcome. I have a project right now involving over 1600 files in a folder and being able to sort easily by exposure would save me a lot of pain!</p>
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<p>Hello all,</p>
<p>I have started shooting multiple files for some of my panos - including exposure bracketing. It would help me considerably if I could sort my files within a folder by exposure details - perhaps shutter speed or aperture. I have in mind creating a column for this info. in Bridge (I run CS5) and then simply clicking on that column so I can sort all the files easily. However, this doesn't seem to be one of the options for columns in Bridge.</p>
<p>Anyone got any ideas on how I can do this simply without having to look at each and every file's details in the panel to the right?</p>
<p>Many thanks,</p>
<p>Ed</p>
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<p>I presume that the files produced by Capture NX 2 will still be good in other respects, even without lens correction...?</p>
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<p>Thanks guys. I already have access to other raw converters, but want to use Nikon's own because it seems to do the best job of extracting the most detail from D800E files. For that benefit, I am quite prepared to let the Zeiss lens correction feature go. Just hoped there was a way to 'have my cake and eat it too' :-)</p>
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<p>Does the D800(E) onboard firmware recognise the Meike grip as though it is the Nikon grip? For example, the firmware (in the options) states whether to use the battery in the camera first or the one in the grip, etc.. The ability to control this sort of thing is important to me and I would not want to go for the Meike if this functionality is impaired.<br>
Thanks!</p>
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<p>Quick question... I notice that Capture NX 2 performs corrections based on the lens used. Does that include the Zeiss ZF.2 lenses (which have a chip to tell the camera that they have been used) or will the software only perform corrections for Nikon lenses? If the latter, will the software still do a good job, just failing to correct for the lens's failings?<br>
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Thanks!<br /><br /><br>
Ed</p>
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<p>Thanks guys - brilliant! Why didn't I think of that?</p>
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<p>FYI - this is the TC-80N3</p>
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<p>Hello all,</p>
<p>I have obtained the Canon intervalometer, which works like a dream with my 5Dii. However, so far it seems that the max. number of shots that I can dial in is 99 - which is rather limiting for timelapse shooting. Am I overlooking something? Is there a way to get it to dial in more shots?</p>
<p>All help gladly received.</p>
<p>Best wishes,</p>
<p>Ed</p>
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<p>Hello all,<br>
I have recently started shooting a lot of stars and am loving the D800E. However, I can't help wondering whether one of the other recent bodies with fewer, larger pixels might achieve lower noise but lower resolution. Of course shots from such a body have to be enlarged more for any given output size. So my question is this - for any given output size, which body produces the best results in terms of noise when shooting at ISOs between, say, 1000 and 6400? I am not concerned with the lowest pixel level noise, but the lowest possible level of noise apparent at the output size.</p>
<p>All advice gratefully received.</p>
<p>Best wishes,</p>
<p>Ed</p>
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<p>Thanks guys. I think I have decided to avoid the adaptors with focus confirmation chips. I want to avoid the risk of damage and it wouldn't really benefit me in this case anyway (I will use the 15mm lens with slow set-up using live view anyway).</p>
<p>Although it may be a waste of money, I have also decided to get a Fotodiox adaptor just to give myself some peace of mind.</p>
<p>The lever release (rather than tab release) sounds good since I will be changing back and forth. Here are links to various Fotodiox adaptors from their site... I am struggling to determine which of them meets these criteria:<br>
http://fotodioxpro.com/index.php/nikon-f-to-canon-eos-lens-mount-adapter-v2-type-2.html<br>
(part of my confusion is the reference to g type and d type lenses)...</p>
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<p>I have just been looking at the Fotodiox site for adaptors - and there seem to be 6 different types available. Not sure how to choose between them. Can anyone advise? I am not bothered about the focus confirm chip (unless it can be had without any problems).</p>
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<p>Thank you all for your swift and very helpful answers!</p>
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<p>I agree John</p>
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<p>Presumably then if both batteries start charged, it will use whichever one you tell it to use in the custom menu, then use that one until it is dead, then switch seamlessly to the other. So I could put both in full, tell it to use the one in the grip first, wait until it switches over (not sure how I will know it has done that, but presumably the battery life indicator would go from low to empty to full), take out the battery from the grip for charging, then put it back in (or put in a third fresh battery) while it is using the battery in the body. That way the maximum continuous performance will be the life of three full batteries. Right?</p>
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<p>Ah hah! Must have missed that! Thanks Rene'!</p>
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<p>Thanks John. One question - presumably there is no way of getting at the battery in the body without removing the grip? I am shooting continuous sequences for hours (for time lapse and star trails) and it would be great to wait until the first battery is dead and take it out for charging while the second battery is being used for shooting - but I don't see a way of doing that without stopping shooting, as I could not get at the battery in the body (which is the first one to be used up) without taking off the grip containing the second battery. Now if there were a way to tell the body to use the battery in the grip first, that would help! But I guess there isn't...</p>
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<p>Thanks Sarah - that was what I thought! Good to have it confirmed. So the fact that this is a "ZF.2" doesn't stop the lens being used as wholly manual on the Canon...?</p>
14-24 - angles of view at 14mm (not diagonal)
in Nikon
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