markst33

I discovered a tiny piece of dust was effecting the sensor so that even after taking my eye away the sensor still thought my eye was there so was not switching back to LCD view. Crisis averted :D

I was wondering if anyone had come across an issue on the Nikon Z range of cameras (I have the Z6) where the automatic switching between EVF and LCD monitor stops working.

 

I have the auto switching ON and when I switch on the camera I can see the scene via the monitor, then when I put my eye to the viewfinder it automatically switches to that but when I remove my eye from it it does NOT switch back to the monitor.

 

This is happening for Live View, Playback and Menu - which renders the menu touchscreen useless.

 

I upgraded the firmware to 2.0 on Thursday but I the issue predates this. I only have the camer less than 5 months and have been onto the shop where I purchased it and am waiting on a response.

 

Anyone else come across this ?

When I look at the panel of my photos, I can see where some photos have comments but how do I see the comments ? Clicking on the image opens the image but there is NO comments section

<p>I gave found slices very fifficult to capture as, as soon as they hit the water they have a tendency to turn in the water making the edge face the camera.</p>

<p>I have been quite successful in capturing whole fruits as you can see here. https://www.flickr.com/photos/skramshots/sets/72157651968283476/<br>

My set up is to use a fish tank with a black mount board behind (or a white one) and the 2 flashes. 1 shooting through an umbrella above and angled in to the top of the tank. The other one shooting directly at where the fruit will be but angled at 45 degrees towards that area shooting through a diffuser (I used white sheet of toilet paper).<br>

Camera pre focussed to the centre of the tank and shooting at 1/200 f9.<br>

Play around with flash strength.</p>

<p>I posted an image here http://www.photo.net/photo/18007737 yet when you look at the exact same image in Flickr here : you can see that there is a massive difference in the vibrancy and colours.<br>

<br>

If i was thinking of going to a paid subscription with photo.net then this would really put me off as I would prefer potential buyers to see the image at its best, so I would be directing them to the flickr image.<br>

<br>

is this something to do with the way photo.net compresses the image and is this something which you can fix ?<br>

<br>

Mark S.</p>

<p>Hi there,<br>

does anyone have this printer or have any experience/opinions on it. I am thinking about buying an A3 printer but I am constricted by budget. I would be printing as many B&W as colour so its important that the printer can produce great results in both mediums.<br /> <br /> Thanks in advance for your feedback.<br /> <br /> Mark.</p>

<p>Hi there,<br>

I am looking at purchasing an A3 printer and this one falls into my budget. It seems to get good reviews but I have noticed that a couple of people have said that its not great for B&W prints. There are no explanations provided.<br>

I was wondering if anyone here has one or has used one in the past and what they think of it and do they agree about the issue with B&W and if so what is the problem.<br>

Thanks in advance,</p>

<p>Mark S.</p>

<p>Hi there. i am looking at getting my wife a compact camera for xmas in the up to €100 bracket. I have been looking at the Kodak M340 and I was wondering if anyone has one or knows anything about it and can give me their reviews and opinions. Or if you have any other suggestions on compact cameras in this price range I am all ears. Cheers.</p>

<p>I am looking to get an Ultra Wide Angle lens for my Nikon D200. I have kind of narrowed it down to the Sigma 10-20 f4-5.6 or the Tamron SP AF10-24mm Di II. The reviews for both seem to be good and theres very little difference in the price. The Tamron I suppose has the edge with its 10-24 as against the Sigmas 10-20 but I was wondering if anyone out there as either or both and what are their opinions.<br>

Also has anyone bought stuff from <a href="http://www.onestop-digital.com">http://www.onestop-digital.com</a> and if so what were your experiences like.<br>

Cheers.</p>

<p>Mark S.,<br>

Dublin.</p>

<p>Hi there, I recently did some shots for a friend and after I had done some basic processing of them in PS I took them on a USB key up to Harvey Norman as I needed them quickly for him. I got 5*7's and 10*8's done but when they printed they were MUCH darker than they appeared on my laptop screen.<br>

I then decided to try printing them on my own Canon MP360 printer and although the end result was much better (surprisingly) than the Harvey Norman ones they were still a little too dark for my complete satisfaction.<br>

How do I (or is it possible) calibrate my laptop screen to my printer to ensure than when I finish working on a shot that it will print exactly as it appeared on the screen.<br>

Thanks in advance.<br>

Mark.</p>

<p>Thanks for the response Guys. Another question, have you encountered problems with vignetting when shooting at 10mm with the sigma ?</p>

 

<p>I am just wondering about peoples opinions on the above mentioned lenses. The Tokina is more expensive yet the Sigma has nearly twice the focal range.<br>

Does anyone out there have or have tried both lenses and what would their preference be. I am hoping to add one of these lenses sometime next year. It would be to fit a Nikon D200.</p>

<p>Looking forward to peoples contributions.</p>

<p>Mark S<br>

Dublin.</p>

<p>Once again thanks to everyone. I got my D200 2nd hand with a battery grip from a pro in England who saw my postings on the forum. 8700 actuations on it and it was in great condition. 2 Batteries, all manuals, cables etc and inc posting it cost €580 so I was happy. have it about 3 months now and loving it.<br>

Cheers everyone.</p>

<p>Hi there,</p>

<p>I was wondering whhat peoples opinions on 2x convertors are. Are they a good idea. The fastest lens I have is a Nikkor 1.8 50mm lens but the others are 18-55 f3.5-4.5 and a sigma 70-200 f4.5. So a convertor would really be only good for the 50mm ? Am I right in thinking this ?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi there,<br>

I am looking at trying to upload images to www.alamy.com and I was reading through their submission guidelines where it says the following :<br>

<dfn title="When you open a JPEG in picture editing software (i.e. Photoshop), it is uncompressed."><strong>Un</strong> compressed</dfn> file sizes of more than 48<abbr title="Megabyte">MB</abbr> , we recommend that you do not interpolate your files to more than 55<abbr title="Megabyte">MB</abbr> . This means you should make your JPEG file from an 8 bit <acronym title="Tagged Image File Format. An uncompressed non lossy image format.">TIFF</acronym> file that is at least 48MB. If you have a camera that is capable of producing an uncompressed 8 bit, TIFF file size of over 48MB then leave it that size.<br>

What does this mean. I use a Nikon D200 and when I shoot jpeg images at Fine setting they are about 7-8 mgs in size. Should I be converting them to TIFFs in Photoshop ? Or how do I end up with jpeg of that size. Should I be shooting in RAW first.<br>

I am a newbie to this so please keep the techo jargon to a minimum please.<br>

Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>Mark S.,<br>

Dublin.</p>

 

<p>Hi There,<br>

I recently upgraded from a Nikon D50 to a Nikon D200 and am enjoying very much to whole learning process and additional functionality.<br>

However one of the things that has me a bit confused is the whole custom settings options in the menu. Can someone out there explain to me what exactly this is for and how do you set them and access them as needed. Can you call them whatever you want ?<br>

Thanks very much.<br>

Mark S.,<br>

Dublin.</p>

 

<p>Just to let everyone know, Bestbuys price IS very good. However I contacted them and they do NOT ship outside the US. Thanks for the feedback everyone. The D200 would seem to be the one alright. The D300 is way out of my price range and will remain so even if a D400 comes onto the market this summer. The same applies to the D90.</p>

<p>Hi there,</p>

<p>I am in the process of upgrading from my Nikon D50 and after some research I have 99% decided on the D200 as I can afford it if I buy a 2nd hand body and it fits into my requirements as in Faster AF, faster shutter reponse, better field of view and additional functionality.<br>

However before I part with my hard earned cash I was hoping to get some opinions from people here who have one. Do they recommend as an upgrade, what sort of problems they have encountered that I should be aware of and also what number of shutter actuations I can expect from it so as to know what to look for in 2nd hand models.<br>

I am not particularly technically minded so please keep the jargon to a minimum (or at least accompany it with an easy to follow explanation :)<br>

Thanks in advance everyone.</p>

<p>Mark S.,<br>

Dublin.</p>

 

<p>This is not a question, just a posting for nikon users :<br>

If you download the preview extractor here <a href="http://drchung.new21.net/previewextractor/">http://drchung.new21.net/previewextractor/</a><br>

It is very handy for generating jpegs from RAWs and also for determining how many actuations your Nikon has had. Its so small that you can stick it on your memory card and bring it everywhere you bring your camera.<br /><br />Mark S.,<br />Dublin.</p>

<p>Hi there,<br>

If I an creating HDR images can someone tell me are these 3 techniques the same or do they produce different results.</p>

<p>1. Shoot 1 RAW and the create 3 jpegs from it +1, 0 and -1<br>

2. Using the Auto Bracketing feature of a camera to take 1 shot which results in 3 different jpegs +1, 0 and -1<br>

3. Setting the camera up on a Tripod and shooting an image, then manually bracketing to +1 and shooting another image and then manually bracketing to -1 and shooting an image.</p>

<p>If you were to take the 3 jpegs created using the 3 different techniques and create a HDR image would they all be the same ?</p>

<p>Thanks in advance.<br>

mark S.,<br>

Dublin.</p>

<p>Just found this so I thought I would post it here if anyone is interested. http://drchung.new21.net/previewextractor/ download the preview extractor V1.6. It allows you to create jpegs from RAWs taken with Nikon DSLRs. It also gives you the number of actuations taken by your Nikon.</p>

<p>I have the Nikon D50 for the last 3 years now and have been very happy with it. However I am thinking about upgrading towards the end of the year (when finances will permit) so I am looking for some advice and opinions from people. I want to stick with Nikon as I have a couple of lenses and flash so I don't want to have to change all my kit and I am happy with Nikon. The extra functions I am interested in are auto bracketing and multiple exposures. What Nikon would people recommend and what sort of price are we looking at. <br /><br />Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>Mark S.</p>

<p>Hi there,<br>

I am self taught in PS and always looking for ideas and pointers. I usually shoot in RAW but I find that when I am processing the RAW's to jpegs it can take quite a lot of time. I was wondering if there is anyway of Batch processing RAWs to jpegs in PS CS3 to help cut down on the amount of time.<br>

For example if I wanted to save an image as a jpeg 3 times as if it were bracketed +1, 0, -1 and do this for about 20 shots, is it possible. I looked at saving an action on PS but it does not seem to work at the RAW processing stage.<br>

Any help, pointers, tips or suggestions would be most gratefully received.<br>

Happy Valentines day everybody.</p>

<p>Mark S.,<br>

Dublin</p>

<p> </p>

Hi there,

 

I have seen peoples images where they use a technique whereby a part of the main image seems to be coming out

over the frame. Its a very impressive technique and I would be very grateful if anyone on PN could tell me how this is

done or point me in the right direction. I am not even sure that I am using the correct terminology here when I

say "break out".

 

To explain when I mean, I recently saw a picture of a woman resting her head in her hand and the image was framed

but her Elbow was on the Outside of the frame making it look as the picture was nearly 3D.

 

Thanks in advance for all your help.

 

Mark S.

Dublin.

<p>Hi there,<br>

Does anyone know of good software application for stitching photographs together so you end up with a 360 degree view. One of the graphic designers here in work asked me if I knew of any so as I did not I told her I would put it to the wonderfully talented and knowledgable coomunity in PN.</p>

<p>Thanks in advance.<br>

Mark S.</p>