simon_baker

Steve,

I think that all the replies to your post have valid points, however I feel Ellis is "bang on". What you need to consider ( or at least I did ) is the ongoing "running" cost of film to the ongoing "running" cost of digital and then base this against the advantages and disadvantages of each medium. Film is fab and I love it, however, as more switch to digital ( for instant review, percieved convenience or whatever reason ) film choice WILL become more limited ( its only a matter of time ) and it's processing will become much more expensive. To give you an example, I use a Hasselblad H1 system and for the last two years shot about 100 rolls a year, not a great deal as I am an amateur photographer, but the cost from start to finish per roll was getting prohibitive, by that I mean :-

1) Roll of film.....about 2.5 GBP

2) Postage cost to good lab ( as none left local ) .....2.5 GBP

3) Cost of film process and set of prints ( around 6" x 4" ) ...7 GBP

4) Cost of high res scan to CD ( around 20mb ) ....... 10 GBP

5) Cost of return postage ..... 2.5 GBP

Grand total per film .... 24.5 GBP

multiplied by 100 films per year ..... 2450 GBP

This figure is more than double what it was two years ago ! based on my running costs I decided to switch to digital, but I admit I didn't move down to 35mm type DSLR, I took advantage of Phase One's "upgrade policy" and got a three month old "factory refurb" P20 back for my H1 for 4.5K GBP , a saving of 8K GBP on the new price ! I will recover its cost in two years, and believe me MF digital is WAY BETTER than 35mm DSLR digital, the Canon eos 1D mk2 produces 50mb files which seems to be the current standard for stock photography, the P20 produces 96mb files for the same money ! Its mind blowing quality, believe me.

So all I would say to you is, consider your "absolute" budget, based on running costs over the next couple of years and then choose your system. If a rangefinder is not critical but a s/h H1 digi setup is beyond you consider a Contax 645 based system, as although its a discontinued model its still a bloody good system and a very nice body, prism, film back, 80mm lens can be got for about 1K GBP now, you could add a Phase One P20 refurb for 4.5K GBP and get the same stunning results I'm getting with my H1 / P20 combo.

OK, this is a lot more than the cost of the 7 mk2 outfit, but I'm looking at the long term running cost ( abeit I have not included the cost of printing your digital files which of course should not be forgotten ) plus the convenience and the superb results from a 96mb or larger file. The 7 mk2 is a fine camera and if weight to format size is an issue then it is possibly your best option, but there is no digital upgrade option for the future, where as many mf slr's have a digital option, so whilst a digital back may be beyond your budget right now, buying the right mf platform now will allow you to upgrade to a full superior ( to 35mm DSLR and in my opinion mf film too ) digital platform when funds allow thus saving you the cost of switching systems and all the losses that involves.

This is of course my view on your post, you and others may dissagree, what works for me may not for you. At the end of the day before you make any decision try to work out all the ongoing running costs involved and base these against what compromises you are happy to make. The 5D is a superb camera but in terms of quality it cannot compete against a top quality scan of a 6x7 neg/trannie yet along that of a mf digial back, where it scores is speed. The 7mk2 is quite cheap now, produces superb results and is light, however the running cost of film is climbing and unless support for film grows again choice will inevitably become more limited as time passes and its cost will go even higher, also I do not see a future digital option for the 7mk2 and adapting the lenses to use on a digital camera may not be an option - so it will always be tied to film. Most mf slr's however have a digital option and many can be bought with a perfectly usable film back for a song these days, then when funds allow you can buy a digital back and still be able to switch to film when you choose just as I do now.

Sorry for the long "sermon" , I spent a lot of serious cash making the wrong decisions along my path to mf digital and I just want to help you and others consider the full options open to you which will hopefully help you save money in the long run without sacrificing quality.

just my 2 pennies

hope it helps Simon

Bjorn,

Its not nonsensical, you've completely missunderstood me ! Of course it does not become a 600mm, I did not say that, what I said was when used on a DX body the combination gives a FOV ( field of view ) equivelent to a 600mm prime used on a 35mm body, and that is to my knowledge correct.

200mm prime + 2x convertor = 400mm prime on 135 format

400mm x 1.5 DX crop factor = 600mm FIELD OF VIEW

Regards Simon

Thanks Shun, John and Bjorn for your replies.

To Bjorn...regarding " The strange numbers play to get to 900mm" perhaps I should have worded it more clearly, what I was actually trying to say was...when using a 2x convertor my lens would become a 400mm F4 giving a FOV on the D200 similar to a 600mm lens on 35mm which should be long enough for my needs, and whilst I could get a 600mm F4 lens ( instead of my combo ) and thus have an FOV of a 900mm lens but its too costly and heavy, this is where the 900mm figure came from.

Once again many thanks for your replies,

Simon

Thanks Shun,

I thought they would but its nice to have it confirmed. By the way, what do you think of this lens ? I ask this because I consider you to be very well informed and I recall reading an older thread recently that was posted around the time of the lens' launch in which you replied that you did not see why Nikon would release such an optic ( or words to that effect ). Yes I know, anyone who spends 2500 GBP on a lens should have done his homework and ask questions prior to the purchase, I have and I'm very pleased, just interested in your and others point of view on this lens.

I have only had it a few days so its early to personally sing it praises but I have to say its superb, although I'll admit its a bit of a monster !

I find it great for portraits at a distance, the bokeh is very similar to my 85 F1.4 AF, although I did not buy it for this, I will be most often using it for wildlife and surfers. Thats where the convertors come in, yes I could have bought a 300 / 400 F2.8, 500 / 600 f4 but I couldn't stretch to the last three, plus the weight .

With the 2x attached I'll get the 600's FOV on my D200 ( ok, the 600 would be like a 900 ) and thats enough reach for me plus it reverts to a super fast tele without a convertor attached.

Kind regards Simon

Daire,

Why does it strike you as a very bad idea ? Hasselblad are not interested in whether their promotion pushes ebay prices sky high ( although as Q.G.de Bakker says, at 14K GBP they are not going to be shifting "truck loads" ) as they don't make any money from ebay, unless they start listing the Lubitels they take in p/ex !

They are a business and as such their primary concern is to look after themselves and make a profit.

For those few looking to invest in a H3D, yes now would be a good time, get a cheap but working Lubitel and put it in ( and yes it does qualify ) !

The "H" system is the best MF digital platform available, it seems to polarize views.....you either love it or hate it, but believe me once you've held one in your hands and spent a half hour with it you'll find it really is superb.

Also for what its worth, I went digital with mine recently but I bought a Phase One P21 "loaner" , a 3 month old back with full factory refurb and full warranty ( part of Phases upgrade path, someone ordered a P+ back in Feb, was sent brand new P back until launch of P+, then sent the P back back to Phase when his/her P+ was ready ) I saved a fortune this way, got it for 6300 GBP instead of 14000 GBP, now thats what I call a discount. Its still possible to get this deal as the P backs come back into Phase and is worth serious consideration for those who already have a H1/2 setup.

Kind regards Simon

Hello everyone,

Does anyone know if the TC1.4E2 & TC2E2 support the VR function of the lens ?

I see on the Nikon UK site that the TC1.7E2 supports the VR function as well as

AFS but the 1.4E2 & 2E2 only mention AFS, it does not say that they do not

support VR but neither does it say they do.

I know I could ring Nikon in the morning but I am hoping that someone out there

could confirm it tonight, plus its nice to post a question.

I know I run the risk of some replies saying " don't use covertors, they

degrade the image" but please don't go there. Its my past experience that

quality 1.4X used with a quality prime show no obvious flaws and acceptable

images are obtainable with a top quality 2x.

In my opinion a slightly inferior photo with a convertor is always better than

no photo because a long enough lens was not available.

Many thanks Simon

Hello Daniel,

If you are set on getting an "N Digital" then I have some good news for you, Ffordes Photographic ( www.ffordes.com ) a long established and very reputable dealer based in Scotland have 4, yes 4 ! for sale plus a couple of lenses which are brand new.

Body 1 "Exc+" for 1850.00 GBP

Body 2, 3, 4 "Ex demo " 1950.00 GBP each

Lens 1 100mm F2.8 makro AF "brand new" 999.00 GBP

Lens 2 85mm F1.4 AF "brand new" 999.00 GBP

They ship worldwide too, and if you are outside the EU I believe you will not have to pay the VAT on the new items either, so you can deduct around 15% off the prices

Hope this helps Simon

Hello all,

Thanks for all the response to my earlier question ( Going digital with

Hasselblad, should I go back to "V" system ? ) posted on 5th March.

I have decided not to go back to the "V" system with a CFV as I feel this would

not be a forward step for me given that I have a H1.

I have added some more info to that thread and rather than retype it all here I

would be grateful if you would take a look and come back to me, the new info

is just after "Terence Patrick" reply.

You will see that I have found out that I can order a "factory refurb" Phase

One P20 back for 4900 GBP, true 16 bit, 16MP, 100MB Tiffs, 37mm square

sensor, etc etc. Given that my total film cost ( film + D&P + hi res scan +

postage to and from lab ) averaged 3K GBP last year this P20 option looks

appealing.

Does anyone have knowledge and/or experience of the P20 ? Is it as good as the

dealer says it is ? 4900 GBP sounds good to me, its "affordable", maybe not

justifiable - but affordable. I need the freedom of being untethered and other

such backs are way too expensive, so its this or stick with film.

With regard to what I shoot, its usually my family and good friends, and

landscapes ( and before we get into "landscapes on square ?" it works for me,

and Charlie Waite for that matter ! )

If you replied to my earlier post, please read the tail-end of it so that you

have all the info. If this thread is new to you then I would be grateful if

you read my previous post through as this will give you a full insight into

my "dilema".

As always, I am most grateful for any and all replies I receive, especially

with regard to this post as being an AM and not a PRO I will not be making a

living from my purchase so its cost will not be recovered through quicker

workflow etc, I can only hope to recover it in reduced film costs.

Many thanks Simon

To Terence,

As I said in my original post this is not about "bragging rights" and yes as I am not a pro any possible purchase must be thought through, I do not need to know that I would have an expensive piece of gear or wish to "show off" to others who do not have such kit, its a case of economics and speed. 15K - 35K backs are out of the question as I said before, but with the option of a P20 at 4900 GBP and my film costs running at about 3K a year this back looks to make sense. Regarding insurance, of course it would be insured, do you think my H1 ( or for that matter, my Nikon kit ) is not ?

Regarding "regular maintenance and its expense", what would this be ? The P20 ( or any other Phase One ) is covered for one year and I can upgrade this to three years for a modest amount, my insurance would cover any damage which is not covered by the warranty. Exactly what maintenance are we talking about ? I have been informed that Phase One backs are very robust and reliable, is this not the case ? Also remember by not using film I will be saving around 3K a year ( based on my current costs ) so after about two years the back will have paid for itself and from there on in I will be saving considerable money, which if needed can be used for a possible service. Does this not make sense ?

Kind regards Simon

Hi everyone,

Thanks for all the prompt replies, I sold the 203 because after handling a demo H1 I new it was the way forward for me. I am so used to the speed and handling of a 35mm SLR such as a Nikon F5 and the H1 is similar in handling terms plus its A/F is very good, the 203 while being a beautiful camera just didn't feel right when a winder and prism were attached, its much better ( to me ) with a WLF and manual crank.

I am not a pro, and only shoot around 200 rolls a year so any digital back purchase needs to be really thought through, a couple of years ago I read an article on the late Patrick Litchfield, where he said his film + D&P costs were running at about 60K GBP a year so a 35K digital back was a wise business move for him , I however could never justify such an expense ( yet alone afford it ), at least in the forseable future as photography is not my living, its a hobby to me ( although I would like to make "some" money from it one day ).

Now here's where things start to get interesting, at least for me, as I have said I shoot about 200 rolls a year, the cost of the purchase of the film + D&P + a high res scan to CD is about 15 GBP per roll, on that basis my "running costs" are around 3K GBP a year. I have today found out that I can buy a "factory refurb" Phase One P20 back complete with software, manuals, case, 1 year RTB warranty ( upgradable to 3 year ) for 4900 GBP . The back will have paid for itself in less than 2 years ( based on my film costs ).

To those in the know, wolud this be a good option ?

I know the P20 has a "square" sensor ( 37mm x 37mm ) but thats fine as I liked the square format of the 203, at this point I here some say "well why get a 6x45 'blad if you like square ? " , I have already answered that ( ie speed and handling ) .

To me at least, the cost of this back is justifiable based on how soon it will pay for itself, plus Phase One are a leading back manufacturer with an enviable reputation, and the file size is more than enough for me now and into the future ( around 100 MB tiffs ).

So what do you guys think ?

Once again, many thanks for the replies so far and to any to follow

Simon

Hello all,

OK, at the end of the day only I can decide on what I am about to ask, but any

sound advice from anyone out there who has pondered the same or has experience

related to my question I will be most grateful to here from.

I am considering getting a digital back and I guess my H1 is the ideal

platform. However, the cost of a new back for the H1 seems to be well over 12K

GBP and rising, which to be honest I cannot justify as I am not a working pro,

and S/H seems impossible to find.

Up until August 06 I had a comprehensive 200 series outfit, which in

my "wisdom" I decided to sell and invest the proceeds in a S/H H1 with 50/110

zoom. Now don't get me wrong, the H1 is superb ( however I do miss the 203 )

and it handles like a dream, but the cost of the digital backs...WOW

As I have said I sold my "V" system except for one rather rare and superb lens

which I could not get a sensible offer on ... that being the 350mm F4 FE ,

this lens has been for sale on my behalf with a dealer since Sept and still no

takers.

Now I have the chance to once again buy a mint 203FE, 50mm F2.8 FE, 110mm F2 FE

all 20 months old and for 3K GBP , so I am now torn between keeping the H1 and

film backs ( waiting for a better price on digi backs for it ) or getting the

203FE ( which I still miss, so there's part of my dilema ) and buying a CFV

back for it.

OK, a CFV back is not exactly cheap at 7.3K GBP but its a hell of a lot cheaper

than a back for the H1 and I could afford to go that route if I sold my H1 and

extensive Nikon D200 kit that I currently use for digital.

So my dilema comes down to this:-

1) Sell H1 and Nikon outfit, raise about 9K GBP, get back my 350mm, buy 203

and those two lenses plus a CFV back, total investment about 10K GBP, meaning

actual outlay about 1K GBP.

2) Keep H1, keep using film and get it scanned or even invest 2K in a Nikon

9000 to do the scanning myself. Then when a back is more affordable, around

8K, get one. Also keep Nikon kit for digital use now and sell when I can

afford to switch.

I hope this post does not come across like "bragging rights" because I am a

very modest person and know that in many ways I am very fortunate to have such

a dilema. It has taken me about 20 years to get to the gear I now own, and as I

said at the start will be most grateful for any advise you may have even though

only I can decide what to do.

In advance of any replies, thank you for your advise/answers and for taking

the time to read this post

Simon

Thanks everyone for the prompt replies, as it appears that the SB800 will work with the F5 as well as D200 I shall aim to purchase that flash as soon as I can

Simon

Hello all,

I have an SB28DX left-over from when I had a D1x ( now have D200 but no TTL

gun for it yet ) and would like to know if I will get good exposures with it

when used in "Auto TTL" on an F5 which I recently bought. I read somewhere that

the "DX" version of the gun was best for the D1x because it was adjusted for

use with digital sensors, so on that basis would I get indifferent results when

using it with the film based F5 ? Should I sell/swap it for a standard SB28 ?

Or would the SB800 be the way to go - serving both my D200 and F5 ?

I know I could shoot a roll or two of film and see what the results are but

someone out there may have direct experience of this combo and could advise

pros/cons, obviously if the SB800 will expose film correctly then thats the

best way to go as the SB28DX is of limited use with my D200, its just that I

can't afford one yet ( new car just cleared me out for a while ).

Thank you in advance to any response my post may get Simon

Walter / Todd,

Thanks for the quick replies, thanks for confirming that the matrix metering will work fine with the 'blad lens, the adaptor is just that, it does not contain any glass and yes the lens will focus to infinity. With regard to the focal length conversion, yes you're right, a 350mm lens is still a 350mm lens, what I should have asked was "what would the FOV be", I know that a 35mm format 200mmm lens on a DX sensor has a FOV similar to a 300mm on 35mm format and this is what I was referring to, if I knew the magnifaction ratio ( in terms of FOV ) of 6x6 format mounted on a 35mm film body then I could multiply this by 1.5 to obtain a figure my "minds eye " can relate to , I still find it easier to picture lens length/magnifaction when quoted in 35mm full frame terms.

Hi guys,

In an earlier post ( October ) I asked you wether I should upgrade from my D1x

to a D200 and had several constructive responses for which I thank you. Well

I've done it and I must say I don't regret it either, the 2 D1x bodies have

served me well and are still capable performers and I was not sure about the

D200, yes its had rave reviews but how would it compare to my D1x in terms of

build quality and speed ? Well the truth is I am more than happy with the D200

build quality and speed, ok its build is not quite the "tank" that the D1x or

D2x are but its close and its smaller size and less weight is a bonus. Start up

time is impressive and the menus are easy and straightforward, and the image

quality - well yes its very, very good. An added bonus was that I got it

secondhand from a very reputable dealer here in the UK, 3 months old - like

new - boxed etc etc with 12 warranty off dealer and all for ?800 GBP so I am

over the moon. I have just sold both D1x bodies, the cash from which has paid

for the D200 with enough cash left over to pay 2/3rds cost of S/H 85 F1.4 AFD I

just got, so once again thank you for your advice as it was a sort of "leap of

faith" going for the D200 without selling the D1x first, but that way I got a

better deal.

Now, I would like to ask another question of you all, I also have a Hasselblad

system ( some may know this from previous posts )- "H" having sold off my "V"

system but keeping my 350mm F4 telephoto lens to use with the D200 via an

adaptor I have. Before we get into a discussion about "why bother?" here me

out, I've used this lens on the D1x and got very good results ( and I mean

good ), this lens will focus down to six feet and its bokeh wide open is

wonderful, even the busiest background disappears. I am yet to try it on the

D200 as I decided to sell it with the D200 dealer on a commision basis but am

now thinking of getting it back. So my question is this -

I know I can set the camera to "non cpu" lens and get matrix metering with

the 'blad lens but are the "lens focal lengths" in the menu specific to Nikon

non cpu lenses or any lens of that focal length and aperture.....in other words

will the meter give the correct reading or is it programmed to think that the

lens attached is a non cpu nikkor only .

Also, does anyone know what the 'blad 6x6cms 350mm lens converts to on a DX

sensor ( or 35mm as I can times that figure by 1.5 for DX ).

And finally, what will its fastest aperture become? As it is mounted via an

adaptor which is not unlike an extension tube I assume there will be

some "light loss" - but how much ?

Thanks reading all this and any replys I may get,

Simon

Brian,

IMHO the 28/70 f2.8 is the lens to go for if you can afford/justify it. I say this over the 17/55 because you already have a 12/24. A year ago I bought a used D1x and 18/70 Nikkor & 12/24 Sigma lenses and was happy with the results, then about 3 months ago I bought an "as new" Nikkor 28/70 F2.8 for 800 GBP ( 1200 GBP new ), it soon became clear to me why many people regard this lens as Nikons finest zoom, the 18/70 is a very good lens - the 28/70 f2.8 is a "stellar" lens ! I have just sold my D1x and bought a D200 which is a great DSLR, the 28/70 is quite large mounted on a D200 but it is well balanced and not difficult to handle, if I were you I would keep the 18/70 as a lightweight travel option ( unless you get offered over 120 GBP for it ) when you don't want to carry 2 lenses as its still a fine lens, ok 18mm is not as wide as 12mm but its 70mm end is the same as the 28/70 and I doubt that you would miss too many shots. The 28/70 will give you the wider aperture for portraiture and better results and in the long term I am sure will turn out to be a wise investment.

Kind regards Simon

Hi Guys,

I don't know if this has been asked before, but I will be most grateful of any

advice anyway. My digital photography is currently catered for with 2 D1x,

one mounted with a Sigma 12/24 the other with a Nikon 28/70 F2.8 AFS. The main

reason for 2 bodies is "dust" - this way I don't need to take the lenses off,

or at least thats the plan. I also have a Sigma 150mm macro and a Nikon 500mm

F4 "P" AIS and up to this point have been using the body with the 12/24

to "swap" lenses with ( keeping the 28/70 always attached to the other ), now

given the current low prices for a very nice D1x should I buy a 3rd to use with

the 150 & 500 ( keeping the other 2 lenses attached to the other 2 cameras ) or

should I sell both my current D1x and invest in one D200 and just get used to

cleaning the sensor every now and then ? I suppose at this point I should say

that although super cameras I use them mainly when out with the children or

wife, in other words when I need to work fast ! ( My main camera is a

Hasselblad ). Also I rarely print digital above A4 and often convert to B&W

with added "digital grain" for effect, so on this basis would I be wasting

money "upgrading", what do you think - is one D200 the way to go or based on

how I mostly use my D1x would it be better to get a 3rd D1x for the 2 lenses

used less often. I know that at the end of the day only I can really answer

the question but as always any constructive help/advice will be most welcome.

Kind regards Simon

Hello everyone,

I have the chance to buy a s/h as new coolscan 8000 for under 900GBP , as I

wish to scan my medium format film would this scanner be the logical way to

go ? I do not wish to invest 2200GBP in the coolscan 9000 as I have just

spent most of my photo budget on a Hasselblad H1. Are there any drawbacks to

the 8000 or is it as good as the literature says? Many thanks Simon

Scott,

I am very happy with the results I get from my Sigma 12/24 HSM at A3, I cannot comment on how much better the Nikon version is as I have not tried it( I bought the Sigma as I also have an F5 ) but the Sigma purchase saved a lot of cash which I put towards a Nikon 28/70 F2.8 AFS which is a stunning lens. The Sigma is built to a high standard but this pro Nikon optic is really a cut above it. Buy second hand from a reputable dealer if you can as you will save a lot of cash and get a decent warranty, I've saved thousands over the years by doing this and often got a 12 month warranty with each item and not once have I had to claim on the warranty. If your budget will allow then buy a Nikon 17/55 & 80/200 AFS , if not then consider replacing the 80/200 with the Sigma 70/200 F2.8 APO EX DG HSM as its very well built ( 1.3 kgs ) and has excellent performance that I doubt you will be dissapointed with. Either way, try to test the Nikons and "after markets" together and go with what feels right to you and what your wallet can afford.

Bye the way Robert, Zeiss does make its own glass, it comes from "Schott" - a company that Zeiss bought many decades ago, so it has complete control over its glass manufacture. The Japanese made lenses still use Schott glass and T* coatings that are formulated in Germany.

Regards Simon

Hello Lawrence,

Hasselblad make a lens cap that fits over the 93mm lenshood of your 50 FE lens it is called the 93/100 lens cap and its part number is 3051654 You should be able to order it through your Hasselblad dealer and may even find one in s/h dealers or ebay.

Kind regards Simon

Hi Les,

I,ve just invested in a Hassie H2 with a... you guessed it "Film back",

bloody awesome if you ask me ( I also use a D1x with 28/70 f2.8 AFS ) , this is MF heaven and when a digital back becomes cheap enough ( I believe thats still several years away ) I will have the system to take advantage of the technology, but right now film still rules unless of course you can splash out 22K ( GBP ) on a H2D 39 megapixel ! Edward, I do not believe film will suddenly die out, it is likely to become a niche market but so what, as long as we support it there will be a market for it even if we lose some emulsions along the way others will remain. My local camera store ( the owner of which I know well ) supplies mainly the "point & shoot happy snapper" because thats where his customer base comes from so naturally he sells mainly digital BUT in the last month he has noticed a big return to film, selling more film last month than he has in the whole of the year so far! Many of his customers who are a bit more advanced ( photographically speaking ) have been buying top quality film SLR's on ebay that previously they could only have dreamed of for silly money and naturally they need film (I myself bought a "mint" F5 a few weeks back for 300 GBP ) to use in the cameras, also many are thrilled with how well these film cameras are made ( Eos1 / F5 / etc ) compared to the digital cameras they own as most cannot afford D2x / Eos1DS. One last thing, vinyl is still available new, yes its a very niche market but its still there and I believe film will be the same.

Many thanks for your reply John,

The lens has indeed gone back to the dealer who have confirmed that there is a focus problem with it ( and were rather alarmed that the person within their company who accepted it for p/ex had not picked up the problem on initial inspection ), they have sent it to Hasselblad to be repaired at no cost to me. Also the lens has performed 28k shutter releases and on contacting 'blad UK they suggest a service at every 30k so the dealer is getting it serviced too, saving me 160 pounds sterling. I hope to have it back within the next ten days, the lens is optically mint and the exterior very clean, however 28k releases suggests a fair amount of use and I am wondering whether on its return I should buy a new lens off the dealer instead ( he will refund me in full ), problem is a new one will cost me 700 pounds sterling more, what would you do?

Kind regards Simon

Hello everyone,

I have just purchased through a reputable dealer a secondhand Hasselblad H1 and

50-110 zoom lens, it is a lovely camera however I think there may be a problem

with the lens and before I contact the dealer on Monday I was wondering if

anyone has had a similar problem and can advise me as to what the remedy is.

I bought the lens and camera off the same dealer, the lens 2 weeks ago as they

don't appear that often and had enough cash to "secure" its purchase, then

when I sold my V system on ebay I bought the H1 which arrived yesterday, upon

switching the camera on I noticed that the lens was quite noisy and struggled

to focus, this was a suprise as Hasselblad and many pro's rave on about how

quiet and fast the focus is, then sometimes the lens would focus at infinity

and othertimes it would not, stopping at about 10 metres, the motors sounded

like they were struggling so I changed the batteries but still no improvement.

Then when manually focusing, the lens focus ring would sometimes turn all the

way from min to infinity and other times would not go beyond 2 metres

before "slipping". Finally, when in autofocus mode, on several occassions the

following message would appear on the grips display " ERROR Focus drive

problem " . Being new to the H system I would be most grateful for any help

from anyone who has had a similar problem or anyone who would know what the

problem is.

Many thanks in advance of any replies Simon

Stuart,

You are in luck my friend, there is here in the UK a wonderful company that has original and photocopies of instruction manuals for just about every camera and lens made! They are incrediblly useful so keep the web address safe for future use too. They are called "Old timer cameras" and the web address is www.oldtimercameras.com , select "Rollei" as the main manufacturer and the enter SL6008AF as the model, you will see that they offer a photocopy of the original 2003 109 page manual for approx $18. The photocopies are very good quality ( I have purchased several over the last few years ) and come A4 size and bound with a card cover. They dispatch within 24hours of payment ( weekends exc ) so you would likely get the manual within a week, some manuals are even available as a download, but not the 6008AF. So there you go, look them up and get the manual.

Regards Simon

Thomas,

Mifsuds Photographic in Devon, England, have one, they are an excellent company of long standing ( about 50 years trading ), I have spent about 12k GBP with them over the past ten years and have always had superb service, ask for "Matthew". The GX617 comes with a 90 F5.6 lens + hood, focusing screen + centre filter and is described as mint- and hardley used ( their descriptions are always spot on ), it is priced at 3695.00 GBP . Web address is www.mifsuds.com go to the "used" section and then "Fuji pro" you will find it there.

Regards Simon