charles_fremont

Victor, I think a 530 ex in the bag would be a great idea on your cruise (saving

you a few bucks), but only as backup. I'll explain what I mean. Fast lenses

help you capture what you see, if what you see looks good to you. But if the

subject is not lit, or very poorly lit and you cannot move it into acceptable light,

then a flash that can tilt and swivel is a way to PROVIDE light, which no lens

can do. But you're going to have to go about it in a thoughtful way or the

results will be disappointing. Think of the flash gun as a steady light source.

Would you shine it directly in someone's face? Probably not. Bounce it off a

white ceiling or bulkhead? Yes, that's way more natural and flattering. Think of

it as a way to boost the existing light or to make it more interesting. It will take

practice, but the great thing about digital is that you can see what you're

getting right away. And you can make adjustments, and trash what doesn't

work out. And the new Canon flash equipment will help you expose properly

for the flash and balance the flash with whatever ambient light might be

available. Flash in expert hands can make an ordinary shot come to life. Flash

can freeze action miraculously. Flash can be fun to play with. Flash can help

you get a shot when you must get the shot. But, if you're anything like me,

more than likely your personal favorite shots will not be flash-assisted. There

is something wonderful about finding and capturing beauty as it exists in our

world before our eyes, and flash ain't part of that. So don't count on it for the

prize winners; count on it when there's no other way to get the shot. And

realize that even then, you may not like the results. If this approach doesn't

appeal to you, get the 2.8 lens you've got your eye on.

Sure you can. You can also extrapolate from the reading; for example if the

20D is set for ISO 200, you will need twice the light for your ISO 100 film: open

up 1 f-stop from the setting, or use the next slower shutter speed. Also

consider the convenience of something like a Gossen Luna Pro meter so you

don't have to pack the 20D when you just want to shoot film. B&H has two

used ones on sale at the moment for $150. Or look in the camera stores for

bargains. I still have a Luna Pro, a Weston Master V, and a Sekonic Studio

Deluxe. The latter two don't even need batteries.

I suggest that you do all you can to get to the site ahead of time -- even a day

in advance if possible -- to plan how you are going to arrange the students

and what lens will frame them best. Bring a few students with you if possible.

I'm guessing the 50mm might be perfect, and you know it will be sharp. You

might need to resort to the 17-85 if you can't back up enough for the 50 to

cover all the students. If you do have lots of room to back up, also try the 85

1.8, which might give a more pleasing result against the background. you may

need to extend the tripod up high and stand on a chair to see everybody. If

time permits experiment to determine the best ISO for the shot. Consider

bracketing. Certainly consider taking the shot without the flash as well as with

it. You might get a much more pleasing result -- but you'll need at least 1/30

sec. and kids not moving around. Once you get a good result take several

shots and pick the best one later. Good luck!

This is a follow-up question to Sarah K's. Like her, I have no problem

downloading from my camera (20D) to iPhoto on my Mac. Later I can pull the

files into Photoshop or whatever. Shouldn't I be happy with that? What are the

advantages of a card reader? Should I not be concerned with the daily pulling

the CF card out of and shoving it back into my camera? Isn't that wear and

tear too? If you convince me to get a card reader, which ones do you

recommend with USB 2? With Firewire? Thanks!

I agree totally with Ed Okie, above. He is right on the money.

If you must have camera support -- to get yourself into pictures, for example --

consider a bean bag. I met a pro at the bottom of Grand Canyon who swore

by a little bean bag he had sewn up himself. Soft and flexible, it could be set

on a rock or picnic table or in the crook of a juniper, and the camera

positioned on top for great self portraits with scenery, evening shots, etc.

Another option is a little tabletop tripod. But, with the flexibility of your 20D to

crank up the ISO, how much do you really need camera support?

I appreciate all the comments. Glad I'm not the only one to prefer no

advertising on my gear. Stephen Lewis, I doff my cap to your ingenuity. Your

comments brought back memories of the beautifully crafted brown leather

cases on my old Rolleiflex and Zeiss cameras of the 1960s. I should never

have traded them in! ... I still like swivels, so the Op/tech strap is probably not

for me, but the Lowepro's elasticity sounds intriguing. Thanks, and happy

shooting!<div></div>

Regarding quick releases, there are times when they come in mighty handy.

Example: I'm high up in a construction site, wearing the required hard hat. I

want to swap cameras for one in my shoulder bag, without the hassle of

taking off the hat (and what would I do with that?). Solution: unhook one quick

release and voila! Another example: extreme cold; I'm wearing a heavy parka

and the camera strap is threaded inside the clumsy hood. Total nuisance to

flip down the hood to remove said camera. Solution: unhook one quick

release and voila! Likewise I can re-attach camera without removing hat or

hood (a bit tricky with the hood, but workable). Another example: blazing

sunshine; I'm wearing a cowboy hat and I've got it snugged down with a chin

strap in the wind. The camera is around my neck. Easiest and most

convenient way to remove said camera: unhook a quick release. Older

shooters will recall that in the old days we had leather straps with one quick

release metal snap on one side. The new ones seem to work just as well.

These releases have never failed me in many decades. If you never wear hat

or hood, though, I don't see why you'd ever miss them.

When I opened the box for my new Canon 20D, and took out the strap provided, I wasn't

thrilled. For many years I had used Domke gripper straps on Leica and Nikon film

cameras. These unobtrusive black, no-nonsense straps have quick-release swivels that

help eliminate the fuss of getting the strap configured right when you pull the camera out

of the bag. Though similarly made, the Canon strap was embroidered with Canon

advertising and there were no swivels in the design. It also seemed wider than

necessary for me, since I do not use extremely long, heavy lenses. Despite these

misgivings, on the advice of an experienced pro, I laced on the Canon strap; ﾓIt just

means you've arrived,ﾔ he had told me. But the strap continued to bother me; just when I

wanted to think about pictures I often had the distraction of untangling my strap; and

being a billboard for Canon was never to my taste. Time passed and a few days ago I

crossed paths with one of the top photographers with the St. Louis Post-Dispatch busy on

assignment. Both of his 1D cameras had Domke straps. This got me thinking again, and

last night, when nobody was looking, I pulled the Canon strap off the 20D and equipped

it with a Domke strap swiped from an old Nikon F. Sorry, Nikon. This strap is going

places. Anybody else out there as picky about neck straps?

(continuing) I phoned Fotodiox. They do offer a "professional grade" Nikon to

Canon EOS adapter. It sells for $89.95, and should be back in stock and on

the site in a few weeks. I was told it is stronger and more durable than the

consumer grade version, and recommended for anyone with longer, heavier

lenses or frequent changing of lenses. According to the gentleman I spoke

with, both products are anodized aluminum.

(continuing) On the Fotodiox website I found: Nikon Lens - Canon EOS

Mount Adapter (consumer grade) 04MTNEOS. The product is marked down

from $49.95 to $27.95 plus about $5 shipping. The MSRP is listed at $79.95.

Infinity focus is guaranteed. A chart shows compatibility with the 20D. Should

I be concerned about the "consumer grade" caveat. I couldn't find a similar

professional grade product on the site. It specifies neither stainless nor brass.

Again, any advice would be welcome.

I'm baffled by this thread. Wouldn't any adapter push the lens too far out to

focus to infinity properly? I have several mid 1970s vintage non-AI Nikkor

lenses, the 24, 35, 50 and 105 primes. Using a good quality adapter, what

exactly will I be dealing with, on my 20D camera? I'll be totally manual on

focus and I would have to manually open the aperture and manually stop

down as well, correct? Superb optics but sounds like a real pain, not to

mention worrying about screwing up my 20D with this oddball gizmo. Any

advice from actual users would be welcome.

For the 50mm f1.8 I recommend you use the lens as is, or simply stow it in

your bag with a front and rear cap. Most of the time this lens needs nothing

attached to it, as its front element is well recessed. Also, why fuss with a hood

that can leverage damage to the rather vulnerable focusing mechanism of this

lens? That being said, there are occasional situations when I might want a

hood, and can be careful with it, so I keep an old Nikon hood of appropriate

size stowed in my bag. Likewise, for the rare situations when I might want the

protection, I also stow a 52mm UV filter in the bag. Neither are essential;

neither take up much space. Cheap, great lens; hood/filter dilemma solved.