m3

I recently picked up an early model M3 DS (in like new condition), 50/f2 collapsable summicron, & a fitted leather Leica case at a yard sale for a grand total of $5. The shutter brake on the camera was jammed so I sent it to DAG for a repair & CLA. The original owner apparently had the shutter brake jam early in its life & never bothered to have it repaired so it sat unused for almost 50 years. Looks like a good deal to me. I will use it and cherish it. It will not sit on a shelf for another 50 years. Its not often to come across a find like this. 8-)

The first thing I did was to open it to check for film in it. There is no film in it. I've owned six other M cameras over the last 10 or 12 years, M4's M4-2, M6's. My favorites were the M4's. Had to sell it all when I was laid off work for 10 months. I'm working now however. Anyway, I do plan to send it off to either Sherry or DAG for a complete CLA & repair. My last M4 was serviced by DAG prior to my ownership. I don't quite remember what initial DAG stamps into the wax seal, but it was his. I knew what it was at the time, but have since forgotten. Will someone please let me know how to contact either DAG or Sherry. Thanks :-)

I just picked up an M3 (chrome) serial no. 748xxx in nearly new

physical condition with an attached 5 cm f/2 collapsable summicron

lens, Leica M meter and Leica leather fitted eveready case that are

in virtually new condition. The camera body leather is also perfect.

My cost for all these items was a grand total of $5 from a yard sale.

The camera body film advance lever will not advance and the shutter

is as if it is not wound. I do plan on sending it to Sherry Krauter

for a full service when I get the money for it. It still has the

original Leica wax seal. Any thoughts on its problem of not advancing

to the next frame? The film counter is at 43.

I wish I could just take it in to a Nikon shop to see how many times it has been shot however the closest one is about 500 miles away. I do not wish to send it in and be without it for 4 to 6 weeks to find it has only fired off maybe 2 or 3 hundred frames, not to mention any cost involved. It seems to be working just fine. I was just wondering about its age.

I recently acquired a used F5 and have been trying to find out

approximately how old it may be. It's serial number is 31876xx. Do

any other F5 owners out there have one with a serial number close to

this one that can tell me when theirs was first purchased new. Thanks

in advance.

Has anybody considered the build quality of an FM2/FE2 vs FM3A? Theres more to it than just an aluminum outer skin. Many people extol the virtures of the FM3A such as being lighter in weight. How is it lighter in weight? Maybe nylon gears instead of steel gears. What about other internal items in the drive train or even the film counter mechanism that may have been made lighter in weight. There IS a reason these old FM2/FE2's have lasted 20 years or more without breakdowns. As good as nylon may be, it ain't steel and I'd bet the new FM3A's won't have the same durability/reliability as the old FM2/FE2's. Personally I'd much rather have an old FM2/FE2, send it in for a CLA and enjoy another 20 years of trouble free service. With the FM3A, only time will tell.

Try this next time you're outside in the sun. Cup your hands around your eyes, sort of a lens shade for your eyes. What you see in reduced glare is exactly what happens when adding a lens hood to your lens. Yes you do need to use one, even when it's just cloudy it helps.

Honeymoon capital of the world, Niagara falls, NY USA.....full time loser, haven't worked in nine months. :-(

Whatever you decide to do, DON'T use the dishwasher. When it dries it leaves water spots. hehehe!

I've been researching which lens to purchase and need opinions. I

prefer prime lenses. I already own a 35-70 f2.8D AF. I wish to

purchase a 35mm prime lens to be used on a Nikon F3HP. Autofocus

capabilities or its newer D technology is NOT of ANY concern so lets

not discuss that. I am interested in its optical

advantage/disadvantage in both daylight situations and night

photography with bright light sources such as street lights.

 

Thanks

Oliver, I use old or scratched hoya filters which I paint black on the inside. When putting them on the camera for protection it is not necessary to tighten them very much at all for them to stay on, and I have never had any problem removing them. Never a problem with them binding or sticking. Hope this helps.

 

Ron

Heres a suggestion for not losing your lens cap. Buy yourself a cheap glass filter, and spray paint it black on the inside. When the paint dries you have a light resistant screw-on cap that won't fall off if bumped yet will not allow light to enter the lens and damage the shutter. This is what I use in those situations when carried out in the sun. Hope this helps.

Just go to any camera store and buy the generic snap caps in size 40.5mm as they fit perfectly. They just won't say Leica on them. Happy snaps!!! :-)

This is the metal one with the wide rubber focusing ring and crinkly black finish. The one that was just prior to the D lens. I would gladly furnish photos if I could, but I do not own a digital camera to take pictures of it. You'll just have to go by my feedback as a seller on photo.net and _bay. I am listed under: Ron Snyder and studio1401. One of the people who bought from me left feedback under my e-mail address (studio1401) and not my name.

Sorry, but this is the best I can do.

I hope this helps

FS: Nikon 180 f2.8 AF ED IF (non D), mint- condition because of very

slight rub marks (not scratches) on barrel, perfect glass, no oil on

blades, smooth and quiet focus in both manual and AF mode, includes

Nikon 72mm L37c UV filter (also perfect), comes with Nikon front and

rear caps, built-in lens shade and Nikon Hard Lens Case: $390 USD

includes shipping in continental USA, outside USA buyer pays the

additional cost of the shipping.

 

FS: Nikon 72mm Circular Polarizer, (B&H sells this for $119.95),

Nikon HN-13 metal Lens Hood (Screw-In) for Nikon 72mm Circular

Polarizing Filter,(B&H sells this for $29.95) both are perfect, as

new: $110 for both USD includes shipping in continental USA, outside

USA buyer pays the additional cost of the shipping.

 

check my seller rating on this forum and _bay under:

Ron Snyder and studio1401

The F & L bracket IS made for the 80-200 f2.8 AF and DOES do a good job of supporting this lens. It is very well made black annodized machined aluminum with an Arca style quick release plate. If you have never used one of these, please do not go giving out false information as to the usefullness of such a bracket. This bracket DOES work VERY nicely on this lens and it doesn't cost $150.

I have an F & L Bracket in almost new condition. If you're interested please e-mail me. I will ship it to you within continental US for $35. I haven't used it in years.

If you want that old time feeling of using an old style camera such as the M Leicas, but in SLR form, why even bother with a motor drive. Get yourself a F2 or F3HP without a motor drive and enjoy that classic feeling of you being in control. ;-)

Too much eye strain, too few photographs! ;-0

A polarizer can add some punch to a rather pale blue sky, just don't always believe that more is better. A polarizer really is not needed with an already deep blue sky. It can definately improve a weak blue sky as long as you do not over do it. A sky can be polarized to almost being black, however that is just not natural looking. Ease up on the polarizing effect and make believable, not garish photographs.

Look at it this way: how much impact is there in holding up a slide at arms length?

Someone asked a question about a camera and I tried responding. I am not a very fast typist, therefore it took me abount 1/2 hour to compose, type, edit, re-edit & re-edit several more times my response that was approximately 20-25 lines in length. I am very particular to the way I word my posts, making sure I cover all bases and am very concise in my responses. When my response was complete I selected "Submit" to then be able to preview my response, then selected "Confirm". I then got a message that there was something wrong with my "spelling" and it could not be posted. I did not copy my response to the clipboard so that I could re-examine it. It got lost. I them went to "contact-us" and e-mailed the webmaster as to why my post did not get posted. I e-mailed him 3-4 times with this question and NEVER recieved an answer. My web-browser IS working properly as I reply to posts on a regular basis including one about 5 minutes ago. They just refused to give me an answer.

Get rid of those lenses and get yourself some descent ones!

Doesn't work. I tried submitting a post last week, I tried posting a reply to a question and they messed up in posting it. When I enquired several times as to why it did not get posted, they refused to answer me.

F5 is TWICE as heavy.