dave_gionet2

Thanks to everyone for some good advice. To Gokce- I used a su-800 on camera, sb-600 in kitchen on floor aimed to ceiling, su-600 to right center, aimied to ceiling, and hand held sb-800 high above camera w/diffuser directed straight to scene. to mj t, I have been getting some success w/ hdr outside but all effort at interior look like junk, to Shun, I know you are right, but I was trying to justify that little dream machine somehow. thanks to all, It is very difficult to get up to date techniques on this type of photography. I am always looking for workshops or classes, can't find anything. Architectural photographer must belong to a secret society.

thanks again, Dave<div></div>

I am trying to get into architectural photography and I am interested in

getting the best natural light look for an interior shot possible. Here is a

sample- with three flash units used. could a D3 take a picture like this with

natural light only. I heard that you can take up to ten shot on a single

exposure to get a final image with greater dynamic range?<div></div>

Eric, I had the same problem, especially if your hands get a little sweaty or oily. Try this, go to the hardware store and get some non-slip tape. It is like rubberized sand paper on one side and sticky on the other side. Cut small little pieces and place them on the center pinch of the cap, right where you put your finger tips. I did that to all my caps and it make them work perfectly in all condition.

let me know how it works for you,

dave

sorry, didn't know how to submit 2 pics. let me try to add the image without dxo

Just a follow-up on Elliot Bernstein's post. I have used the previous version

of DXO Software and have liked the results, but I am also impressed the the

noise reduction. these samples are shot @ iso 1600 and cropped 100%. Notice

the color and sharpness improvement also.<div></div>

The most important feature in this new camera that I am most interested in is

the improvement in the dynamic range of exposure. I shoot interiors and would

like to work more with the existing lighting and less with added fill light.

On page 363 of the D-3 manuel, it talks about D-lighting, is that just post

capture adjustment, similiar to what you can do in photoshop or does it change

to tonal range ability at capture. Is the exposure range of a camera measured

and available anywhere?

Don, It is the full frame, no crop. I think that Bruce may be right, I have other images that came out similar. But the ones with no forward movement came out good. I guess I need to set greater depth of field. But that wasn't the look I wanted.

thanks- all

I shot this picture with D200 and a 85mm 1.8 lense set at ISO 200, 1/500m f-2.2

I had it set at dynamic autofocus- closest subject, continuous focus.

It should have focused on his face, instead I got his rear. What did I do

wrong?<div></div>

Thanks Everyone,

You have given me some very helpful advise. I am going to practice some of these ideas in my home before my next assignment. I mainly photograph for an apartment builder. I have to travel and often go up and down stairs and work alone. So I would like to stay with my compact lighting set-up; A tripod, two lighting stands two umbrellas, and three SB-600's . So finding better ways to use what I have is my goal for now. The rooms I light are mostly shaped like a shoe box, W/one window at the long end. thanks everyone, Dave

Hello, I'm trying to break into architectural photography and want to get to

the next level ( level 2) in my lighting. my pictures look flat and boring

compared to

pro images I see in magazines. I am including one of my room shots

iso 500, f-11, 1/200 three sb-600 remote flash units set manually.

any suggestions would be appreciated

Dave<div></div>

Here's a good one. I had an assignment for a newspaper ( small paper, small town- my first and last assignment) to cover a social event. I set my camera on a ledge to take a timed photo of everyone seated. the next person to receive a award was a well know photographer- I ran up to snap a picture, you guessed it, camera still on timer.

I photograph model interiors. I am trying to re-create the look of natural

light coming through a window and casting shadows of tree branches. I want to

do this with a speed light. I am thinking of a box or a stencil to flash

through. Does anyone have any ideas?

thanks, dave

Ronald- there was no light on the camera!

thanks everyone for your help

I am trying to get my interior lighting to look more natural and have less

flash shadows. I shot this room with three sb-600 aimed back toward the white

wall or up to the ceiling. I can't seem to get enough light to balace with

the ambiant light and not have shadows from the added lighting. I am new at

this and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Dave

here is an interior shot

I agree with Shun, the Tokina 12-24 is an incredible lense and will work perfectly for you. Shoot @ 12mm and correct your perspective in cs2 with the crop tool. Crop as you like and than check the perspective box, now go back and move your side lines to match the building edges- it's that easy<div></div>

I have been reading how useless a cheap piece of glass on the front of an

expensive lense is. I also have been taking pictures for twenty years and

can't recall a single time that I scratched or damages my front haze or uv

filter. Why add another piece of glass. So I took all my front filters off.

Well here's my story. I rented a very expensive lense to play around with on

a weekend trip my wife and I took to La Jolla. While walking on some slippery

rocks, my wife fell. I put down my back pack on the rock to help my wife.

later when I went to use my camera I was shocked to see the $1700 lense that I

had rented. See picture. I sure thanked my lucky stars that the lense had a

haze filter on it. I was able to replace It for $ 29. I put all my filter

back on their lenses. this is just food for thought.

thanks for reading this

Dave<div></div>

try this, make sure that the sb800 is set in the commander mode and that the sb600 is set in the remote mode. and be sure your channel and group settings are the same.

I must be doing something wrong, maybe someone can help. I have a D200 and

after uploading my pics to the computer I delete and reformat, however when I

take more pics and upload to the computer, old pictures are still there. I

can't see them on the card in the camera. thanks for your help.

Dave Gionet

Hi everyone,

a couple of days ago I was asking for help in lighting suggestion for the

exterior of a model home. Got some good advice.

Here is my first try. I am going back out to re-take the shots. I can see my

mistakes- What do you see I need to do to improve

thank you, Dave<div></div>

thanks Jeff, your answer gave me good principle to go by with pricing of my work. Also you gave me other helpful thought about having a professional presentation. I didn't tell them that I don't know what I'm doing, so now they asked me to shoot exterior shots. Twilight shots with full lighting. This will be interesting.

Dave

thanks everyone for your answers. Sorry about the caps on the subject title. I'm not so sure that David's idea is over-kill. I have been looking at samples of models from brochure's and web-sites. They look like they are literlly flooded with light. The pictures are taken at twilight. I know my assignment is beyond my experience, but if they are willing to give me an opportunity, I'm going to try my best. I may try several different methods over a period of a few days. I will be using my Nikon wireless system to enhance small locations and try first with 150 watt clip light. But I will resort to the work lights if need. I will let you all know how it works- thanks so much for all you help

Hi, can anyone give me some help with suggestions on lighting the exterior of

a home. I have an assignment to shoot a model home, which I have done before,

however they want a twilight shot. A shot with a twilight blue sky, house

lights on and the model illuminated with exterior lighting, a magazine type

shot. I have never done this type of shot. Yes, if I have to ask, I'm in over

my head. But I want to give it a try. The only experience I have with lights

is with flash units, I use the Nikon wireless system for the interiors. I

know this won't be enough for the exterior.

Thank you for your help, Dave

thanks for reading my post- I'm not a professional, more of a want-a-be. That

is sincerely speaking. I have shot a few weddings and two jobs for a home

builder-neighborhood shots. I was asked by a home builder to shoot interiors

of four model homes. they wanted to use the pictures for post cards and

promotions. I was very pleased that the pictures turned out great ( I used

extra lighting and edited for perspective correction and accurate color and

lighting. But to my suprise. They loved the pics and wanted me to send them

an invoice. they showed them to their marketing agency-they called me and

want me to give them bids on job. Here is my question (finally) I have no

Idea what to charge for this kind of work. I really want to opportunity, and

don't want to blow it. I know underpricing is a good way to blow it as well

as overpricing.

thank you very much for your help, Dave

I am shooting interior shots with a wide angle lense and would like to get the

vertical lines to be vertical. I have element 3 and photoshop 7 and just

downloaded a free sample of DXO image software. Still not getting it to look

right. Do I need a PC lense or is there software that can correct barrel

distorsion from a wide angle lense ?

thank you for taking time to answer

Dave