joe_alsko

Peter Norquist has a nice site for Color Film Zone System photography. But, it doesn't get into film development. I am about to embark on trying to figure this out for myself (with the help of Ansel Adams book "Polaroid Land Photography").

Has anyone out there worked with development changes (I use Velvia and E100S) to control contrast in E6 films? Are there any sources of official information regarding this subject?

 

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Thanks,

 

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Joe

I had light leak problems when first using the RL holder. Since then

I have learned to hold the groundglass and camera back together when

pulling and inserting the dark slide. I have been 100% leak proof

since. I do have long fingers, so this might not work for everyone.

I spent two years in Iceland and we had the same type of summers. The lighting is great when the sun is low like that and you'll have hours of opportunity to take advantage of it. You won't be capturing an effect on film - you'll just have the best lighting, in my opinion, to capture a beautiful land.

You hate horses? I can imagine hating a horse show... but hating horses? Anyways...

 

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I've never been to Louisville, but wherever I go, I get up early and go to the local stream or river or waterfall and try to find a nice section and shoot a few sheets before the sun hits it and washes it all out. Topographic maps are a gold mine here where I shoot locally (Italian Alps) and have helped me find many a treasure. Local rock climbers and hikers are always good sources too.

Bruce,

I haven't had any problems with long exposures (up to 60 seconds) on E100S(W). I personally contacted Kodak about this and was told that exposures up to 120 seconds needed no correction for reciprocity.

Rain-X makes a product that is supposed to stop glass from fogging up. I forget what its called. I don't know how it would effect the coating on your loupe.

I use the Zone VI modified Pentax digital spot and it rocks! (That's a Dolotmite joke...). Does it work better than the unmodified one? Don't know, but Fred says it does. The Zone sticker is great.

This is horrible!. How can you be expected to produce fine images with such horrendous cleaning marks on your lens? Please send this monster to me immediately and I will make sure it receives a proper burial.... right inside my camera pack. Please be sure to also include a Zone VI 8x10 lensboard with it.

As far as computar symmatrigons are concerned - I think a good virus program will be able to eliminate them from your computar.

Has anyone tried the new Gitzo carbon fiber tripods with 4x5 or 8x10? My Bogen is a pain in the back to hike with.

When I rented a Toyo 4x5 during one of their promos while I was waiting for my first camera to arrive in the mail I used my 35mm to obtain exposure and wasted half the polaroids they gave me. I know that spotmeters are expensive but if you plan on shooting a lot of sheet film and use the zone system, well... its definitely worth the expense. And it makes you look like a pro, too! 'cause isn't that what using a view is all about? Heck sometimes I just set the thing up just to impress people...not.

See "Darkroom Innovations" for non-spotmetering procedures. They really slam us spotmeter users.