peter_koralis

<p >A while back I searched and found a repair manual for my <a href="http://nikonglass.blogspot.com/2010/03/rebuilding-and-getting-nikon-parts.html">D700</a> that didn't cost me nothing just to see how complex the body really was. To my surprise, it looked easy to open and repair (if i had the parts i probably would have!), but like you, i opted to send it to Nikon instead. <a rel="nofollow" href="http://nikonglass.blogspot.com/2010/03/rebuilding-and-getting-nikon-parts.html" target="_blank"></a></p>

<p>The <a href="http://nikonglass.blogspot.com/2010/07/samyang-85mm-f14-ae-if-umc-aspherical.html">85mm f/1.4 Samyang</a> is a bargain that definitely will not disappoint! Its manual focus but it seems really easy to get sharp images with this lens.<br>

But your best investment would be to find a second hand <a href="http://www.bythom.com/nikond700review.htm">D700</a>. It will offer you much cleaner shadow detail in low lit churches. You are probably thinking it only offers 1 stop advantage but this is not so. Most people go to 800 with the D300 and most wedding photographers i know will happily go as high as 3200 IS0. But the real advantage is that the shadow noise in the D700 is so much cleaner.</p>

<p>For the best quality with the least outlay go for the old <a href="http://nikonglass.blogspot.com/2008/05/nikkor-mf-500mm-f4p.html">500mm f/4P Nikkor</a>. Next would be the <a href="http://nikonglass.blogspot.com/2007/12/af-80-400mm-f4.html">80-400mm VR</a> zoom and last choice would be the <a href="http://www.bythom.com/300afslens.htm">AFS 300mm f/4 </a>together with a 1.4x TC.<br>

I have bad experiences with sigma tele-zooms and would only ever consider a <a href="http://nikonglass.blogspot.com/2008/01/tokina-300mm-f28-af-at-x-pro.html">300mm tokina f/2.8</a> or <a href="../learn/nature/tam300">tamron</a>.</p>

<p>Thanks for the links everyone!</p>

<p>One more question, what screen is best for portraits using an 85mm lens and what for sports using a 400mm lens?</p>

<p>I found this info over at DPReview which was very helpful http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1030&message=37056405 so I'm adding the link in case anyone else is interested.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I need a better focusing screen for a D700 so i can focus my Ais lenses with better accuracy and ease. Can someone point me in the right direction.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p >My 300/4 has a problematic diaphragm. I'm thinking of getting the needed parts and fixing it myself? I have repaired a lens once before, so i feel pretty confident i can do it.</p>

<p >My problem is i dont know where to get parts from, can anyone help?</p>

<p >I'm in Malta by the way, so i would like a parts outlet somewhere in Europe if that's possible.</p>

<p>Mervin, you may want to read this informative review of the D7000 (there is also a comparison with the D700). I'm sure it will help you decide.<br>

http://nikonglass.blogspot.com/2010/11/nikon-d7000.html</p>

<p>Here is a comparison between the Nikkor and the Samyang,<br>

http://nikonglass.blogspot.com/2010/11/samyang-85mm-f14-ae-part-2.html<br>

Looks like the Samyang is really good!</p>

<p>What a lot of people dont realise is that if you are aware of flare, then you can ever so slightly mve the camera or change the shooting angle a little and in this way you can manipulate the flaring and in some cases make it dissapear.<br>

For this reason, its pointless saying that the person shooting next to me had no flare. To check flaring problems you need to shoot the different lenses from exactly the same position with exactly the same angle<br>

Hope this helps<br>

PS: I have come to the conclusion after doing dozens of tests on various VR Nikkors that the extra VR group does have a minor negative effect on both sharpness and other optical characteristics eg flaring, though this is very minor (eg between 105mm D and 105mm VR)</p>

<p>Hi Simon, if its the first Angenieux design then it will perform very well indeed, especially on the DX cropped sensor.</p>

<p>You may want to read this review<br>

http://nikonglass.blogspot.com/2009/11/tokina-at-x-pro-28-70mm-f26-28.html</p>

<p>PK</p>

<p>Try diffusing the light source</p>

<p>PK</p>

<p>Or you could try the AF-ON technique as explained on nikonglass</p>

<p>PK</p>

<p>For less than 200 bucks on ebay you can find an old tokina AF 28-70mm f/2.6-2.8. This is a pretty good lens to have until you save up for the Nikkor AFS 24-70mm. </p>

<p>Here is a good write up on the lens<br>

http://nikonglass.blogspot.com/2009/11/tokina-at-x-pro-28-70mm-f26-28.html</p>

<p>PK</p>

<p>With the introduction of the D300s, the price of a used D300 on the second hand market should start dropping.</p>

<p>So my recommendation is to try and buy a SH D300, a much better camera than the D200 and much more suited to your needs.</p>

<p>PK</p>

<p>Sounds like one of the optical groups has come loose, you will need to send it in for repair. Hopefully the lens is still under warranty.</p>

<p>PK</p>

<p>This was an informative thread so far.<br>

But how about some of you post some of the "good" reviews for the rest of us</p>

<p>"choosing between the two 50’s, the AF 50mm f/1.4D is clearly the better choice when shopping for a “fast” lens since its peak performance is between wide open and f/4. Beyond f/4 and the performance is acceptable but not exciting like its slower counterpart. I say this because when compared, the slower lens performs better from f/4 onwards producing excellent results. On the other hand, from wide open to about f/4 the slower fifty does not provide the same exciting results as the faster prime. So there’s definitely a difference of character between the two lenses. One is for shooting dramatic stand-out shots close to wide open and the other excels at shooting everyday stuff utilising most of the available apertures from f/4 to f/16."</p>

<p>Takrn from the 50mm f/1.4 review at http://nikonglass.blogspot.com/2008/04/af-50mm-f14d.html</p>

<p>PK</p>

<p>In the following review</p>

<p>http://nikonglass.blogspot.com/2009/07/nikon-d5000.html</p>

<p>the authur says</p>

<p>"the AF in the D5000 with its face detection technology really rocks"</p>

<p>So i guess it does have face detection.</p>

<p>PK</p>

<p>Your feelings about the D5000 are similar to those of John Caz ( http://nikonglass.blogspot.com/2009/07/nikon-d5000.html ) though he could not overcome the missing dial syndrome :).<br>

<br /> "Well as impressive as it may be, with the same sensor as the D300, with an articulating screen, with the better live view performance, with a smaller and lighter body and a very respectable price there is a lot to like about this little camera, but there is one thing I just can’t find myself overlooking, and that’s the missing dials and buttons that I have come to expect from all my Nikon bodies. So the wonderful D5000 goes up for sale"</p>

<p>You can pick a macro lens from any maker and they are all great simply because they aren't as demanding as other focal lengths when it comes to designing them. But the Nikon really shines with its VR capability!</p>

<p>This is a great review of the lens, check it out<br>

http://nikonglass.blogspot.com/2008/02/nikkor-105mm-f28g-afs-vr.html</p>

<p>PK</p>

<p>Hi Clive, the following link may interest you<br>

http://nikonglass.blogspot.com/2008/05/d300-custom-settings-version-20.html<br>

since it not only suggests selections but explains the reason why some of them are made</p>

<p>PK</p>