philscbx

<p>Thought I'd update the link for the Portable Canon NP-E3 Ni-MH Battery Charger.<br>

Currently $99<br>

http://www.eastgear.com/charger-devices-cd-bcnpe3-battery-charger-us-plug-for-canon-np-e2-and-np-e3-battery.html</p>

<p> </p>

<blockquote>

<h1>YouTube upload</h1>

<p>See one easy process, <a href="http://www.apple.com/ilife/imovie/">iMovie</a>. Watch the demo movies.<br>

I have Hi8 gear from, holy cow, still in a camera bag somewhere.<br>

The process was straight to computer.<br>

It's good to list what the specs of your computer and camera are.<br>

You could skip a few steps in your process.<br>

Laptop processor doesn't like the load, that's why they overheat.<br /><br /><br>

If laptop is the main gear & it's getting typically over heated,<br>

then use cooling tactics with fans to direct a stream of air to keep it cooler.<br>

Jack up the laptop at slight angle to let forced cooling air flow in.<br>

Feel around it's vents to make sure flow is optimized.<br>

* Camera/Hi8<br>

Rewinding/fast-forward on the camera will eventually eat the motors.<br>

Canon replaced all the motors in one of mine, new in 06, a year later.<br>

I threw in the towel and went digital for video.<br>

At best, play the footage to computer in short one minute spots, or less.<br>

This will help the processor deal with it.<br>

*Computer/<br>

Save clip to external drive, then load the rest the same way.<br>

Clips will eat up a laptop's drive in a hurry.<br>

Bring them back in little by little, and hit save every time you add anything.<br>

Some software can crash working with analog video. So far knock on wood with iMovie.</p>

<p>In comparison, my MacPro with 8 processors works hard at it with video,<br>

but deals with it easily.<br>

A small single processor is like pulling a semi up-hill with a Toyota hatchback.<br>

My Apple laptop with dual 2.53GHz & 4Gb ram seems to be bare minimum<br>

dealing with video & large raw file software compared to my older single processor.<br>

*Software/<br>

As simple as iMovie is, it's slick with simple transition drop in's,<br>

adding music from files.<br>

Visit one of the Apple stores to see demo.<br>

*YouTube/<br>

To top it off, within iMovie, when edit is done, there is direct 'Share this' to<br>

upload the finished clip straight to your YouTube account.<br>

To see easy 60 second clip of my first Youtube, see Philscbx/<a href="It was all done with pocket camera ZS3.">Iowa Speedway</a>.<br>

All done with pocket camera ZS3, with added shots using 300f2.8 on Canon.<br>

Imagine a rookie, 50 something pulling it off like a kid.<br>

Have Fun</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>So that's how released prisoners spend their time.<br>

Folsom Street Fair 2010</p>

<p>So that's how released prisoners spend their time.<br>

Folsom Street Fair 2010</p>

<p>So that's how released prisoners spend their time.<br>

Folsom Street Fair 2010</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I want to get right into final cut and not waist too much time on imovie, so ive been looking around.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Then it's safe to say, <br>

You don't have iMovie either.</p>

 

<blockquote></blockquote>

<p>I realize this is an older thread, but I have the same issue with apparently a clogged head from non-use.<br>

<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=2299175">Norm Millsap</a> seems to be quite the guru, and cleaning the head myself is preferred.<br>

I removed it, wiped it's face off with wetted paper towel of <strong><em>alcohol,</em></strong> reinstalled the inks,<br>

but the head warning came back. </p>

<p>I may try the deep soak method, and see.<br>

Not sure what type of cleaner is being used as what comes in a kit, so if that is known, great...<br>

Thanks.</p>

 

<p>I got mine from <a href="http://sterlingtek.com/">SterlingTEK</a>, 20 to a case.</p>

<p>First off, great shots. <br /> The fact it says Japan and comes in Canon pkg is the holy grail for me.<br /> If it had said China, well not much needs to be said there.<br /> Back when I started with the new 30D in 05, and other models needing the same battery, I purchased a case of BP511 batteries 2000mAh.<br /> I forget the source off hand, but will update if known.<br /> Funny, on the back of the battery it says Premium cells from Japan, Made in China.<br /> They have performed better than the original Canon's that died while in Europe. I was a bit upset.<br /> The Europe only label, is somewhat confusing. Like it was charger voltage specific. Doubtful. Decent price too. I noticed they are 1390mAh.</p>

<p>I too was looking at the kit, and assumed the control of heads were remote.<br>

So a tour today to 2 of the pro shops in town, both do not carry the Elinchrom brand.<br>

Their reasons tend to be the same. Not self replaceable elements seems to be the reason.<br>

I'm not sure if I buy that. We don't repair our own cameras & send them in.<br>

I like my older Elinchrom heads even though all manual, never an issue.<br>

Maybe someone can shed a truer light on it.</p>

<p>I like the brand, guess I'll have to go get a link.</p>

<p>Hi Jen,<br>

I'd have to say not being anywhere near a Pro even though gear gathered over the years looks like it.<br>

So in a quick answer, I'd set your flash with some diffuser used, maybe even a bounced reflector and then set camera to AUTO and take a sample. Being set to Auto bypasses all these settings. But you can see the settings used.<br>

Seeing what the camera chose, reset a value in manual to alter shutter speed, F stop, flash output, film speed.<br>

*The reflected off camera bounce,<br>

the lighting will give much more depth in contrast vs a flat look from direct fired flash aimed straight at the ground.</p>

<p>You can get some idea of this tactic, and never step in the snow, just yet anyway, on a bright white wall.<br>

Set up a test object on the wall, a favorite sock even, as if it was a stick of wood on the ground.<br>

Now try Auto to altered Manual, and I bet you find a happy setting before you get your snow boots on. <br>

Cheers</p>

<p>I'd suggest including the links to get to the set you have. Make it a step easier for us to solve.</p>

<p>I'd say take it to local electronics shop to have capacitor replaced, or DIY.<br>

Smoke is a good sign that usually means don't plug me in again.<br>

Oil is the coolant, and next process is more than likely fire.<br>

And yes, PCB coolant oil is very if not almost impossible to clean off of anything it touches.<br>

If it soaks into concrete surface or other porous flooring, it's a toxic smell forever.<br>

I'm taking Dan's advice as well.<br>

If it leaked in my shop, I'd have to move. The smell makes me vomit.</p>

 

<p>I find this posting quite ODD. Especially at one of the highest class photo sites of Professionals.<br>

Maybe a job with the CSI, or NSA is more to your missed vocation.<br>

I never once had to confirm someone's post. I may not get that far if links were added to products.<br>

Like others have also said, they might have not got around to adding images here yet. <br>

One Thing is always for Sure, They more than likely know more than me. 35 plus years, Yes it's possible.<br>

If I rated every search I made for an answer, I'd give it no less than a TEN every time.<br>

In fact, I just spent 6 hours researching the links provided by just 2 members of<br>

the products they found to help when it comes to 'Flash Brackets'.<br>

This led to other links within, and now I'm late for an appointment.<br>

Incredible data that would of taken another ten years to stumble into by chance,<br>

and now we don't have the luxury of time to wait.<br>

By all means explore, but to down rate info a member went out of their way to include<br>

that maybe stumbled across the link before you is a bit ODD.<br>

There is only one thing in all photo sites I find that backs up most image taken process<br>

and that's the 'EXIF DATA'. If it's missing, then I can't confirm my thought process.<br>

If I add to a post, it's to confirm I burned the info hopefully permanent between the ears.<br>

Cheers.</p>

<p>Every Camera Shop sales-rep should insert this info into every sale of Flash Head by law. <br>

If your just starting out, spend the next few hours at the links here.<br>

I did, and I've been at it for over thirty years.<br>

Thanks'</p>

<p>Also Invertors, even the right rating for the load can suck a vehicle's battery quickly.<br>

There are slick battery load cut offs to stop the drain before batteries hit a certain level.<br>

Running the vehicle to keep up obviously, and using over size wire to lessen the load as well.<br>

Trolling size batteries in twin packs are going to be heavy, but that's the price necessary.<br>

Good quality inverters are spendy. Tired batteries just get in the way.<br>

I made all components fit on industrial plastic air cushioned hand truck including the AC battery charger.<br>

Now the welding cable size battery leads simply clamp to the hand trucks structure. No worries of dangerous high amp shorts.<br>

If I forgot to shut off the truck lights, just wheel out the power, and jump it.<br>

It's a win/win tool.<br>

If a storm takes out the shop lights, no big deal, just plug in the LED rope lights.</p>

 

<p>This process is difficult trying to choose a set.<br>

To sort through, I might as well follow a women shopping all day for clothes. $35 nylons?<br>

*<br>

A tour to one of the upper end camera shops in town, they only had 2 sets out on display<br>

that are the cheapest junk out there.<br>

*<br>

Here's the funny part, I needed something the next day for a unscheduled wedding reception party.<br>

I said 'OK, I'll take it'. 'Oh we don't have any in stock'. I even tried to take the displayed set.<br>

Walked out the door empty handed.<br>

*<br>

A year prior, I found an older 500w Elinchrom head in the basement of one shop.<br>

Used for wedding rentals, and about $400 with stand on wheels. All manual analog.<br>

I found the option on wheels works great and prevents falls if cords are routed at lowest point.<br>

My activity has mostly been industrial nonsense with strobe combined with on camera flash works well.<br>

*<br>

The option may take a set camping to motorsport events, with the newer radio digital.<br>

Prime daylight and racing sometimes are not the norm.<br>

*<br>

Frustrating is going to different sites where you can't see heads up close.<br>

Micro views just make me leave. Like their intention is to hide something.<br>

Like Profoto's example: http://www.profoto-usa.com/products/compact/compactR.asp<br>

Chose a random model number to see sample. You have no quick idea how it relates in the group.<br>

If Profoto was my product, you would have full screen views and a mock studio showing the typical options.<br>

A page of just 500-600w heads by model in one column according to price, built in remote column, and so on.<br>

Pros & Cons of options available. Suggested Options. Kit Options, with 1280x800 views.<br>

You want 300w heads. They're on the previous page, or linked to from options.<br>

If radio is built in, link me to the options. I shouldn't have to search for it.<br>

*<br>

If you have been a aircraft mechanic for 30 years, you can easily pick out the best rivot gun a mile away.<br>

Where someone starting out might fall prey to junk, ruining a classic WWII ship.<br>

*<br>

As much as I prefer to shop locally, I suspect the internet will end this game little<br>

by little with one very smart laid out site.<br>

There are scam internet shops in NewYork doing much damage to the general public.<br>

*<br>

I will sort through the list suggested above and form custom files to print out.<br>

Thanks'</p>

 

<p>

<p>*The most important tactic I now make rule #1.<br>

NEVER allow camera strap when setting any gear down to drape over the edge of counter, shelf or table etc.<br>

Just like the old saying goes, if your falling from skyscraper, just throw out an extension cord, and will catch onto something.<br>

John Wayne would be proud of the quick draw reflex catching my 1DsMkII in mid flight. <br>

Rule #2, inform those near or handling your gear bags, that it's not dirty laundry they just slammed in the door.<br>

Lucky Canon made repairs under extended warrantee to smashed lens.<br>

Happy New Year to all, and more amazing shots to come.</p>

</p>

<p>I had to follow this thread from recent postings on "What's the Worst" you've done to your camera / http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00Rwxi.<br>

This is so clever and brave I must say to a screen repair you did. How unfortunate with such a direct hit with knife.<br>

I'm pretty gutsy with untried repairs, and seeing your well imaged results makes me wonder if using controlled heat to the<br>

screen would allow the adhesive to give up it's grip a little easier? Soldering gun maybe with drop of water for reference of temp.<br>

*The most important tactic I now make rule #1, NEVER allow camera strap when setting any gear down to drape over the edge of counter, shelf or table. <br>

Just like the old saying goes, if your falling from skyscraper, just throw out an extension cord, and will catch onto something.</p>

I just picked up my first of these the other day.

I too was having a glitch, but then using a flashlight, tested the optical sensor indoors by shining the flashlight into sensor as if

outdoors, and sure enough that kept it from firing.

I had saved a link to this device. I guess I forgot about it waiting to see one. I still haven't, even though I visit the shops for all my

Canon gear. Strange the it's not a high profile marketed device at the shops. I'm sure I would have one otherwise.

 

I also see the mention of the Q1Ultra. This unit I did see in action at a auto show in Mpls. It almost sidetracked the reason I was

there. Used as it was ganged to a digital camera on tripod to image those posed on motorcycles, then uploaded to a site the

customer could then access to see the image. Very Slick!

I'd rent the lenses you want to try first. They notify you when they are available.

The one I contacted sends them out. Saves chasing around town, Usually a week to use.

 

I have not tried this class of wild life shooting with these special lenses yet, but I have to assume

the gear is mostly on a special tripod with smooth panning head.

 

Myself, last time out at nearby wet reserves, I would like to try the 200-500.

I tried to get close on migrating fly ins, thinking I was well blocked by growth, but they seem

to know there is a rookie lurking and then move to the private member only view. Forcing you to go home.

 

A google search looking for 200-400 options landed me here. I use the 30D, but plan on adding a second body.

Looking at 5D. Or the elusive 7D.

If the option to use the Nikon D3 appears, it could be interesting.

Even with 12" bracket, at say 40 - 100 ft to subject, the flash only moved

an 1" from the lens. Similar to pool bumper shot from 6" vs 8ft. You may still

see red eye at full power.

I used to do the same shoots with film, but no flash of the kids dance shows 20 yrs ago.

If your flash killed the stage lighting effects as well, then turn it way down for one.

Catch the dancers without them directly looking into lens.

Time the shot at their slowest movement.

Multiple rapid shots and this will close down their Iris some, but don't blind them to

where they injure themselves.

If more of this event is coming up, try to set up off camera remotes.

70-200 might be too much lens vs a fast prime 135 or similar.

Other than that, Aperture or other software will fix red eye to a needle point.

If you have samples to link, great.