RayCornett

Are there any good threads here, or videos anywhere online, that go in depth on using the Rolleiflex 3.5/3.5F synced to studio lights?

 

I have found one single video and all it was is a video of a photographer showing you how she plugged her light to her Rollei.

I know what you mean Joe but that doesn't mean the meters can't be repaired

 

I cut a piece off the Polaroid cell to replace the crook cell (below) in my Metra. As you can see, the cell was encased in plastic which yellowed and aged, but the cell, made in 1958, still produced enough power to use again however the cell wasn't protected anymore so had to be replaced

 

Current is never a problem as long as the cell's voltage is right and the soldered joints are solid and corrosion free

 

 

Old Metra cell, as bad as it looks, was still producing 0.3volts in bright light

 

[ATTACH=full]1256010[/ATTACH]

There is one place, in Germany, that at one time repaired them. Then there is Quality light metric. But I don't see websites for either. The email address I did find for QLM bounced back.

Check the voltage of the selenium cell first. You'll need to expose it to bright sunlight or up close to a 75-100W light bulb. The voltage should be at least 0.2-0.3 volts

 

Check for continuity (use ohms scale) from the selenium cell to the ends of the wires. If the wires are soldered to the cell, there should be no problem with continuity

 

If the wires are only contacting the cell by "spring" pressure, you will have a problem, you'll need to clean the wires and surfaces thoroughly for the wires to make good electrical contact

 

If the cell and wiring pass electrical current and the needle still doesn't move, you may have an open circuit in the armature that the needle is attached to or the armature is stuck somehow

 

Just push the needle with a toothpick to see if it's free to move, and check how much slop there is in the armature bearings. There should be an adjusting screw on top but you need to know what you're doing to adjust it

I checked the contacts on the back of the selenium cell and the contacts inside where those "pins" would go before posting and both registered over 60 OHMs. The needle with the circle on the tip does move when I make adustments with the knobs but not with light shined into the exposure cell on front or when I put my hand over it. The other needle moves freely when I nudge it with a toothpick. I have repeatedly tried the exposure meter adjustment instructions in the manual but have not had any results. This includes using the adjustment screw on the back. Should the needle without the circle on the end touch the edge of the red "marker"? Right now it does not. It stays about 1/4 inch from it.

Are you saying I need to disassemble the selenium cell?

Both the selenium cell and contacts inside where the cell is inserted register over 60 OHMs on a multimeter. So, theoritically the meter should work. However, there is no meter movement when a flash light is shined into the exposure cell, or when I place my hand over it.

 

Any suggestions?

<p>Photo Paepke in Germany (Dusseldorf) has new photoelectric celss for Rolleiflex F models. Price makes sence, 120 € assembled if I remember right.</p>

<p>Kerkko. </p>

I think they closed down. Their email doesn't work.

<p>

Now take a stout sewing needle and unscrew the two screws that hold the selenium cell in place. </p>

The sewing needle part confuses me.

Is there any chance that there will ever be a "replace file" option rather than having to remove the image then reupload it? I have images I would like to replace with new versions without the annoying watermarks but do not want to lose the comments already there.

<p>I did reread it and saw the halogen bulb option. I am going that route as I believe I have some.</p>

<p>As for dimming my display the issue with that is usually modern laptop LCD/LED screens don't get really dark and the prints I am getting are so dark that my screen can't get that dark. </p>

<p>I also do not have hundreds or thousands of dollars for a special viewing booth like he uses.</p>

<p>I have spent some time on that site and others over the last few days. Without a real calibration system I am dead in the water for a bit.</p>

<p>Ok I was able to sort the finding of the profile myself. I must have been doing something wrong but I am not able to select it under the proof set up to see what the image should look like on the paper using their ICC profile.</p>

<p>Now my issue seems to be my laptop monitor. It obviously needs calibration because the prints come out so dark in some cases I can barely see them. I am test printing some of my higher contrast black and white images since this paper is supposed to be so good with those types of images. I have to brighten them so much in PS to make them print ok that they look washed out.</p>

<p>I am totally frustrated since I am in a situation where I can not obtain a calibration system. I am not even close to a place where I could rent one for a day.</p>

<p>The calibration method windows 8 uses is terrible. For starters here IS no contrast "knob"or button to be able to adjust it for their calibration method.</p>

<p>By in print you mean the settings box that opens when I select print? I also just noticed I accidentally downloaded the profile for photo rag, not photo rag pearl which is the paper I have.</p>

<p>Windows 8 and I have CS6 and CC.</p>

<p>Show up in print? How would I upload the profile here with no file upload option?</p>

<p>You can find it here in their archive for Epson 2100/2200. It's the same for both models.</p>

<p>http://www.hahnemuehle.com/en/digital-fineart/icc-profiles/archive.html</p>

<p>The paper is glossy fine art.</p>

<p>I have finally obtained some Hahnemuhle Photo Rag Pearl after wanting to try it for ages because of the results I have seen in the prints of other photographers on the same paper.<br /><br />I have never had to use anything but Epson's ICC profiles until now since I used Epson papers. I downloaded the correct profile for my Epson 2200 Photo Stylus(I know, old, but it still does a fine job in my eyes).</p>

<p>The problem is that I do not see the profile listed in the printer settings print profile selections. However, if I go to apply/assign this profile to an image directly in Photoshop it is there. So I assume that what I would do is apply/assign the Hahnemuhle ICC profile to the image directly in Photoshop and in the printer settings select allow Photoshop to handle colors?<br /><br />Any information will be greatly appreciated!</p>

<p>I just replaced a 12 year old laptop that believe it or not was a great laptop up until about a year ago when it suddenly couldnt browse the most basic website without taking 5 minutes or more for a page to load and CS6 wouldnt run on it. This is amazing though considering it only had 500MB of RAM.</p>

<p>With my taxes I was able to afford a decent new laptop although it was not my dream machine. The Dell Inspiron 15 I bought a few days ago kicks butt compared to my old laptop.</p>

<p>My issue is the display is obviously way off according to a couple sample prints I have done. The calibration system I have will not work with Windows 8 so I have to do it manually until I get a new Spyder system.</p>

<p>This leaves me with the only choice for calibration being manually/visually. I tried the basic Microsoft way step by step from their instructions on their website but could not adjust brightness or contrast high or low enough to make dots, lines and such go away as instructed so I got fed up with it. </p>

<p>Upon some more research into the display settings I found a list of dozens of ICC profiles with no clue which to choose. I did see one labeled photography, though.</p>

<p>Any advice will be extremely appreciated!</p>

In many cases, no. But check your states laws on limited editions. A local gallery may be able to tell you where to look for the info.

Paper and canvas are different mediums.

 

You can have a limited edition on one surface/size and another limited edition/size on another surface and in many cases one will not effect the validity of the limited edition aspect of the other.

I do research such as that. I have even used the listing techniques of the ones who sell a lot but have not seen any change in results.

Well, Andre, the shots themselves are not done as fetish shots. They, as well as the black and white shot of the model sitting on a table with a window in the background, are just shots I made during a shoot that had the main goal of fetish photographs.Same model and shoot, in fact I just happened to see the lines her feet and such made and had to shoot them. They DO seem popular among the foot fetishists :)

Glad to be back. My new job has had me very busy.

 

I mainly just want to see others views on the subject.

 

I have done fetish photography many times, myself. I don`t do the cheesy looking type either. In fact, the feet shots in my bodyscapes folder are from a fetish shoot.

 

I have often debated wether I should or should not post other more obvious fetish photographs here. Some of it has actually been featured in a couple gallery exhibits including one juried exhibit.

Oxymoron or no?

Do any of you sell your fine photographs online for fair prices?Not the 5-20

dollar range but 150-200 +, etc.

 

I seem to get watchers for a lot of my listings and store items now and then

but no buyers. I simply can not see selling one of my art nudes for 20 bucks.

 

Any advice from any successful Ebayers will be appreciated!

Ok, I feel better then :)

Yes more than 24 hours had passed at the time. If they had not, I would not have been allowed to request critique on the one it let go through. I tried a second then got the message.

I started my paid subscription yesterday. After which I requested

critiques on 4 images. Today I went to do the same. It allowed me to

do one. Then when I went to do another I was told that I had reached

my limit of 4 per day. How does 1 become 4?

For some reason I have to put in my login information twice before I

can get in. What`s up?