francis_cardullo___dayton_

<I>-NOTE- this is not a for sale posting. This is an information request. </I>

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Money�s tight so I�m finally getting ready to part with the last few pieces of

my Hasselblad collection. I have one piece that I can�t find any information

for on the net anywhere.

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It�s a 500 exposure film back that uses 70mm rolls of film and fits on the 500

series cameras. To the best of my knowledge, only 6 to 12 of them were handmade

by Hasselblad (but I could be wrong!). It�s in really great condition

cosmetically and to the best of my knowledge still works great, however I don�t

have the battery to test it out (takes the same batteries as the EL/M if I

remember right).

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Beyond that, I don�t know anything about this piece. Any collectors on here

that could shed some light on the item and maybe hazard a guess on how much its

worth and how to go about selling it? Any other huge Hasselblad-specific boards

I should try posting this on no one here knows?

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More images of the unit: <BR>

<a

href="http://www.cardullophotography.com/ebay/blad500/">http://www.cardullophoto

graphy.com/ebay/blad500/</a>

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Thanks!

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-Francis<div></div>

good idea... i asked my local state farm agent about it and they quoted me $100 to insure the eequipment under an umbrella policy for the year, including abroad. That would take care of my immediate need to have the equipment covered while i'm in London (and maybe Russia), but i will still need to find a long term solution here in the US that would include business insurance in case someone decides to be really friendly and sue for damages of some sort. I thought there were some specialty insurance companies that catered specifically to photographers?

i'll be doing most of my business in the US and will only be in the UK for 6 weeks studying, so i'm looking for more of a US company to do business with on the long term.

I�m still a fulltime student and am fairly new to the photography

business side of things � it�s currently a part time thing that I�m

positioning to ramp up to full time when I graduate next spring. I

knew I should be carrying insurance at some point soon, but it has

now moved up to very soon. I�ve been accepted into a photography

program in London for the summer, with a possible trip to Russia as

well, and I�m certainly not traveling abroad without insurance on

$5,000+ worth of equipment.

 

So, does anyone know of any good insurance companies that will cover

that sort of thing on an international basis (something tells me that

leaves out homeowners insurance) at reasonable rates?

the other factor involved in how loud a camera appears that doesnt show up as well in the recordings is the tone of the noise. My 20d makes a definate higher pitched "click" when it goes off. Some cameras that i've listened to make a noise that is just as loud if you stick a microphone next to it, but the tone is much lower, more of a thud. The lower tones travel less distance, so 10 feet away, the two cameras that sounded the same from 6 inches out now sound significantly different from each other.

thanks for your responses, that helps alot. anyone else experienced the 1d mark2 as being loud like the 20d?

 

I wont be able to go to the camera store and try them for a couple weeks yet, and i need to have my decision mostly made by then

I own a 20d right now and the shutter click on it is HORIBLE for some

of the photography i do (wedding ceremonies, solem speaches, etc).

I'm getting ready to upgrade and and am still agonizing between the

5d and the 1d mrk2 (I do some sports as well).

 

my question is specific to the shutter noise generated by these 2

cameras in comparison to each other and the 20d. which one is the

quietest? by how much?

F F, I have the same setup. like eric said, about all you can do shoot at 40mm and try to keep the subject seperate from the background - f/4 on a WA lens just isnt good for that kind of thing.

 

My recomendation if your on a budget is to use a 50mm f/1.8 - if you dont have one of those in your bag yet, GET IT =). its only $90. alternatively, if you particularly like that focal length, spring for a little extra and get the 50mm f/1.4 ($315) OR the 85mm f/1.8 ($340). for any of the above lenses, you can either shoot them wide open at f/1.8 or stop them down a bit to say f/2.8 for better sharpness.

excellent book - havnt gotten through all of it, but its definately a keeper.

I have one... It warms the bottom of my bag... BUT it does come out every once in a while when i see that one shot that a lensbaby would totally make. long and short of it - its a specialized tool that adds a small bit of variety to my images. does it get used often? no... but it hasnt gone up on ebay yet either... all depends on your own photography style whether you would actually use it or not.

echoing what so many others have said already, send me a few and I would be more than happy to see we can do for them.

 

francis |at| cardullophotography.com

I've shot football a couple times in the rain. used a of wal-mart bag to keep things dry. poked a hole in the side of it, squeezed the very end of 70-200 through it and secured with a rubber band or electricians tape, cant remember which. had the bag inverted with an opening on the bottom left for my left hand to adjust zoom. Was pretty comfortable with my camera, so shutter and all other camera operations were done blind on the outside of the bag. had a few other strategically placed peices of tape to make everything a nice tight package that wouldnt blow in the wind. could lift up one corner every once in a while to check the LCD for things, but it was a pain.

 

Did the same thing a few weeks later when i had to cover a mud volleyball tournament and the only place to stand for photos was right on the edge of the mud pit. Threw away the bag, washed off the front UV filter, and I was all cleaned up... precious camera equipment intact =)

Francis Cardullo - Dayton, OH

Wow john, I think you've got a gem in that 18-55 kit lens... i've never seen one of those even half as sharp as that one.

all depends on how popular and active your site is going to be. 5gb of storage is more than enough. you figure your site, including gallery, likely wont be over 5-10mb. if you do a HUGE gallery could go to 15mb. you can multiply that times the number of people you expect to view your site each month and you have an idea of how far 250gb of bandwidth will really take you. bear in mind that the number of people that visit your site will be far more than you expect... and the same person visiting multiple times usually eats up new bandwidth each time.

 

The only other thing i end up using my bandwidth/storage space for is to send clients (and friends) large files from time to time... just upload the file to your site, then email them a link and you dont have to worry about problems with email attachments.

 

I would think 250gb of bandwidth will easily be overkill... but i'm not sure just how little you need. Anyone have a popular site they can check the traffic logs on? Mine isnt popular enought to be of much use =)

First off, I�m fairly new to weddings myself, but no stranger to photography, so take my suggestions with a grain of salt =)

 

I have the 17-40L and a 70-200 f/4 L coupled with a single 20d body. For the weddings I�ve done, I�ve used the 17-40 almost exclusively for the simple reason that every time I tried to switch over to the 70-200, I started missing wide angle shots that I judged to be more important. Finally gave up and left the 17-40 on unless I was trying to shoot something from a distance that I knew would STAY at a distance (like portions of the ceremony).

 

I almost went with the 24-70, because its one sweet lens, but I did a side by side comparison of the 17-40 vs 24-70 and realized that I really needed that extra 7mm on the wide end, even if it cost me a stop on the aperture.

 

Long and short of it, it all depends on your shooting style. Some like primes, some like zooms, some like wide angle, and some like tight angle. I personally like a mix, but only if I�m working with 2 bodies. If I had $1100 in disposable cash and a wedding coming up, I would get a second body (either a 350d or a used 10d) and the 85mm f/1.8. That gives you the required spare body, god forbid anything were to happen to your 20d, and it gives you a fairly fast prime at a good focal length. Put the 17-40 on the 20d and the 85 on the 350d and shoot away. Depending on the lighting, you can probably get away with shooting available light with the 85 f/1.8.

 

If you can, I�d also highly recommend a spare flash� mine died on me in the middle of a wedding less then 2 weeks out of the box, and believe me, f/4 + available indoor light is not a good recipe for fun =)

 

That�s the two cents on MY style of photography� but it all depends on what your comfortable shooting.

First 2 weddings were for friends, very informal, and free. Prep: almost nothing. Called in a friend of a friend favor and assisted one wedding (read that, tried to stay out of the way and keep the �blad 220 backs that he was shooting with reloaded!), but it at least gave me an idea for the general order of events (prior to that I hadn�t been to a wedding since I was 10). Was shooting with a prosumer Minolta A1 digital + external Minolta flash at the time. Even if I got nothing right that evening, it was free and they understood that (but I was still incredibly nervous!).

 

It was the 3rd one that was more like my first �real� wedding (along with real disasters), even though I was essentially only being paid at cost.

 

I picked the job up at a school event when one of the caterers needed an inexpensive photographer for her wedding and everyone in the area was booked. I showed her what I had from the previous 2 (very little!), made sure she understood how green I was, and she was ok with that (the other option was uncle bob). By the time the wedding date rolled around, I was shooting with a 20D

 

First disaster: Order of the ceremony was changed up ever so slightly and I was too green to notice - Missed the first kiss while changing cards - strait from the book of �things you�ll only do once.�

 

Second semi-disaster: right after the processional, my 1 week old 580EX randomly stopped firing. It was at this point that I fully understood why the Minolta had been digging into my back for past 3 hours. Pulled it out and kept going, just had to spend a lot more time in PS processing those afterwards.

 

Bride ended up happy with the pictures, even if I wasn�t.

 

Swore off wedding photography after that one, then promptly did a friends wedding the next week (for free). Learned from my mistakes by then, went off without a hitch and even I was happy with some of the results.

 

Simple fact of the matter, I�m hooked. Wedding photography is only form of photography that combines long photo shoots, constantly changing conditions, and utter perfection every step of the way � in other words, a never ending challenge.

AF 98% of the time, Zoned AF/MF durring processional / Recessional, MF only when lighting makes AF impossible. It's simply too hard to quickly MF with the 20d's viewfinder.

ahh, I sorry misunderstood your question Jaimie. I was still thinking in digital terms. I'm nowhere near qualified to disscuss things from the film side of life... shot a little bit of 35mm and hasselblad medium format, but only playing around, never even semi-professionally. Ended up selling my 'blad to help fund a digital system.

 

Sorry Cindy, we kind of got a bit off topic - I'm curious to see the rest of the responses and if anyone offers pre-cropped images by default. Does anyone have a "cropping 101" type of guide that they've written and give to clients with the images?

I believe that I can address Jaime's question. The primary reason one would crop an image for the client is because many clients do not understand the concept of aspect ratios and automatic cropping (illustrated below). Depending on how they choose to have their images printed, some photo labs will give them an option over the framing (left, center, right) of their crop, some will not. The idea behind providing the clients with pre-cropped images is that the photographer should have a better grasp of this concept and will be able to help ensure they are happier with their final prints that way.

 

In regards to Cindyﾒs question, I too have wondered that. To date, I have given the clients just the hi-res, un-cropped files. I could setup an action in photoshop easily enough, but then the question becomes how to autocrop the image. Some images can ONLY be cropped one way or another, others it doesnﾒt matter too much. If anyone has a simple solution to this quandary without hand-cropping 500+ images, Iﾒd love to hear it =)<div></div>

Francis Cardullo - Lima, Ohio

 

excellent idea, thanks =)

Sorry for the limited information provided initially, that was all I had to work with at the time.

 

Full details:

They are just interested in a number of formal pictures of the family before dinner (5 generations of the family should be there), not candids during dinner. I would place my time spent shooting at no more than 2 hours, most likely 1 hour, followed by a decent amount of optimizing in photoshop to ensure eyes are open etc (there�s also three kids under the age of 3 there, so that should keep things interesting). Travel time is nonexistent.

 

I�m torn between a flat fee pricing model or a per-print pricing model�. Any suggestions?

No idea yet about the size of the event, or how it is laid out. should i consider billing time by the hour or coming up with a flat rate quote? I really dont know what kind of pricing category a 50th aniversary usually falls under (or that people hired photographers for them in the first place)

Just discovered photo.net while trying to research my question, I

think I found a new favorite site =)

 

Anyways, on to the question:

I was contacted this afternoon about doing a 50th wedding

anniversary. I�m meeting with the client tomorrow at noon (9 hours

from now) and thus far have NO idea what kind of pricing scheme to

consider using.

 

The area:

I�m in a relatively small town and the going rate for a lot of

photography is pretty low � a number of established wedding

photographers in the area make $850-$1500 base

 

My experience:

Over the last 2 years I�ve done 4 weddings (2 for free, 2 for a

little over cost) and am pretty much the exclusive photographer for

just about everything on campus here at my college (sports info,

public info, newspaper, yearbook). My technical proficiency with the

camera is pretty high � In the last 8 months, I�ve shot somewhere

around 45,000 images.

My equip: 20D, 580ex, f/4L glass, misc. accessories.

 

Any suggestions you guys could give me would be very much appreciated

 

-Francis