martin_savoie

<p>I use Spyder 3 elite to calibrate a 20" lcd mac monitor and a crt viesonic PF790 on os x 10.5.</p>

<p>Questions?<br /> <br /> When in Photoshop and my color space is set to Profoto 1.8 gamma should I caliber my monitor using 6500˚K at 1.8 gamma and use that set in the monitor panel or keep the monitor on a calibrated 65oo˚K at 2.2 gamma based?<br /> <br /> Same for LightRoom. Should I set my monitor to show lightroom with 6500˚K at 2.2 gamma or make a specific calibration at 6500˚K 1.0 gamma to work in lightroom?<br /> <br /> Thanks</p>

<p>One question here. Are you the type that print on 20 different papers?<br /> <br /> If so, consider getting a system for profiling your papers and printer inks.<br /> <br /> Something descent start at 1000$ and more. Forget Spyder 3 waist of money and precius time. I work with Spyder 2 and 3 for paper profile, bof! I got better result with Eye one system. But they are not the same price system.<br /> <br /> If you are a 3 to 5 different types of papers.<br /> <br /> Do like Edmond said. Have a pro make your profile. And save money.<br /> <br /> For now, i suggest that you stick to your printer with genius HP ink and HP papers and play with soft proof in Photoshop.<br /> <br /> There is nothing like a professional made paper profile.<br /> <br /> I did work with several cheap and non cheap papers profiler system. And sometime i use some companies profiles with papers from other companies and it works perfectly.</p>

<p>Happy printing.</p>

<p>I did test some 6x7 scaned on both: a Nifon 9000 ED with FH-869G and on a Epson V-700.<br /> The scaners were set to no corection of any sources.<br /> The output is made on a Epson 9800 large printer,think 44" large.<br /> The result were to my point of view very conclusive.I was glad that i was the owner of the Nikon 9000 ED.The V-700 is a very good machine for flat work.<br /> The problem with Nikon 9000ED is (some are talkink about it on photo.net) that a 6 x 7 scan at (9000ED) 4000 dpi gives you so much détails that when you look at your file in PSD some erea will be out of randge for focus (blur).But there is some way to get a good job without going(mineral oil mont) wet.<br /> One of my client that works free lens came to my studio and we scaned few 35 mm related to his National Geographic assignement. We did print one of is shot 35mm retouch at 180 dpi resized and printed 44" wide.And we were very please with the result.For 35 mm 9000 ED scaned were evenly sharp compare to 6 x 7 that need a bit more work.<br /> For,i think 100$ a day some places here in Québec province let you scan your work on Imacon Flextight X5.I am talking about le centre VUE in Quebec city.You propose a project and get to stay in there artist residence.<br /> http://www.meduse.org/vuphoto/laboratoire/f_infogr.html<br /> i will test 6 x 7 film scaned on a Creo IQ smart one and the nikon 9000ED in the next future.</p>

Pansonic LX3

 

dxomark.com/

Reason: You were looking at tow different things.

 

 

Canon 20 D, 40D ,50 D and most DSLR.

 

They all show the JPG in the camera histogram. No RAW information on those camera only high hands (like Phase one

P45…).

 

Do test you will be amaze. What is your real 20D iso? My 20D is 50 iso.

 

Tip: Do I have to open up my shoot most of the time in LR2 beceause they are too dark. Iff its yes, than your iso

is not right. Do test exposure to the right. What if not only the color but the exposure was not showing right on

your 20D.Oups…

 

LightRoom2 provide now camera profile that are good. But doing a profile by shouting a 24 patch magbets

colorchecker and than have DNG software process a profile that i name and witch will be available in LR2

development panel at the bottom in the camera profile or Adobe RAW opener..

 

Tip: I will recommend to shout (braket) the Magbet under 2 lights conditions. Daylight and Tungsten. Make sure

you don’t wear your Santa outfit (red) take care for not having any color shift. Now you shout and if possible

sometime get a good snap of a grey card.

You can apply this now to your 200000 20D images done in the past. Important, now that is done ,you still have to

shoot some grey card in your photo project. You balance the film you use now, daylight or tungsten, like the old

days. We ad color meter and cases of filters now just a small good washable pocket-size grey card.

 

A color meter is 1000$ some peoples use it in their digital workflow. A good grey card

priceless. I do work sometime with an independent photo-flash-meter.

 

 

The camera profile in LR1 and camera RAW opener use to be at ø correction. Now it comes with profile that matches

more the JPG. That is why for examples you will end up with different names set in the LR2 camera profile

window, when you click on different camera files. Lets say click from a 5D to 20D ,40D and a Nikon D300 Cr2 or NEF.

 

 

All DSLR aren’t the same . CMOS are not equal. That is why they need to be profiled. I do profile my Canon 20D

40D but it is less need on Phase one and other big guys . 2 P45 will look exactly the same with LR2 or Capture

One Pro development setting synchronize together.

I would ask my client the size he wants and than offer him to print it your self.

 

For that i would go to the best place you now for big print and have a price idea of the work.

 

By that, you keep your file and you make sure that the result fits your demand.

 

You say:

 

is this wall size print might be displayed at the club, and might help sales of my print

 

In that regard i would make sure to get the best print out. You will also be able to put you’re © or .com links.

Large prints are not easy to reproduce. But still can.

 

Just advise...

My friend made the print test of LR1.

 

I did re-install all the LightRoom 1 .4 and 2.1 and print again LR1.4 is very stable, look like PS4 and LR 2.1 still

was problematic ,printing a 1Ds Mk III CR2 in 4" x 6".The problem seem to be less apparent on larger scale prints.

You may be right Frans .

 

 

(whatever they are, I'm not familiar with them)

 

 

So. Get familiar...

 

 

Fact 1 is. That every morning my printer is clean witch mean that i don’t have to run a clean or super clean

process like the old days, make me think that they should get a second chance. From my point of view and my

customer-artist view they fit colors perfect. Many artist got a series made on 2 different inks sets. Somme

artist now print series on different technology’s. I use to print my series on AGFA Portriga in soft selectol,

than IRIS, now epson 9800.

 

Fact 2 is. You don’t throw your cartridges anymore and in that regards. I feel the same.4 printers running here,

that makes a few cartridges in the trash. And that does make me feel responsible. So in that effort i asked most

of my important client what they were thinking about this orientation of mine. I got a very good welcome. We than

agree on a fait-full colors process with significant effect on the environment.

 

 

 

One important thing i should point out is that. The 1st box i received shown that it ad got true a rough ride.

Some little plastic funnel were broke inside the box.

 

 

Anyway, my goal is to correspond with someone that is familiar with this problem. I am not here to debate choices.

Corection:

 

They did send me a new set.But one cart from that set did break again.

Yes i do have many profiles ready in LR2.

 

But i did print from a brand new account on my computer making LightRoom virgin ,no icc selected ever. Got the same

problem.

/Users/martinsavoie/Desktop/Good.jpg

/Users/martinsavoie/Desktop/Broke.jpg

Hello,

 

 

I did put a Cone colour inks pressurize (life time) cartridges sets in a epson 9800. After 9 months, 6 of so called life time cartridges out of

the 8 i was using had the tube with a valve disconnect with in the seal cartridges.Made in China. Cant be fix unless i break it and re-seal

it.Noops.

 

4800 and 9600 are not pressurize cartridges.

 

 

At the company they said i was the only case with such a dramatic fail (6).They only had reports of few cases of only one cartridge

by complaint but never 6.The did send me new one from that one did break again. Today i have the entire set replace for free.

I am keeping a good eye on them,so far so good. The company is very friendly with me.

 

 

One good thing i notice using Cone colour inks: Way less cleaning problem.

 

 

Is there anybody that seem to be in the same situation or now about this?

 

Thanks.

Some people are talking about (tow) bugs:

 

http://www.adobeforums.com/webx/.59b641f7

A friend did put to my attention that he was experiencing problem printing Color prints from LightRoom2.He said that a 5" X 7" look like a

stamp badly interpolated! When this fried came home today, we decide to print a canon 1Ds Mk III CR2 fresh from the morning on 3

different printers. With (os x 10.4 G4 and 10.5 mac pro) on Epson R280, P2200 and Epson 9800 true LR1, LR2 ,PS3 and PS4.On MK

and PK types of papers and inks. Well, i could not understand, horrible. Did print direct from LR2 with profile or save jpg from the LR2

printer module also save a pdf in the epson printer window than print from PS4.

 

Nothing did work except PS3 and PS4.

 

 

On the 21 of November I did contact over the phone Adobe TECH Support. According to them (ADOBE), they never heard of such LR2

printing problem.

 

Adobe techh support suggest:

 

Build a new account on my mac and do it again, Noops!Change the monitor profile; yes they said that, certainly not!Send the file from

LR2 to the printer but save it as PDF printed fromPS4.Does not work either.Save 3 JPGs from LR2 printing panel one in sRGB one in

Adobe(1998),and the other one in enhence matt paper profile from epson and then printed true PS4. Noops again.

 

I did put together in a folder the original RAW file, the PDF and the 3 jpg from LR2 and drop it in the Adobe tech FTP site. than they did

scratch there heads over the phone. They could not explain it. So the case will be study. I will certainly post their response to that

problem that they could not fix.

 

I will get kind of shy if it’s just an electric breaker down in my house basement, but i will be glad if somebody can light me down in my

hone home basement and fix the bug.

 

 

Salut les PRO! Et merci.

 

happy Photoshop printing. Martin Savoie

in the next week i will send examples of the same shot scan a few time and show that it

will be sharp in some area and the next scan will show that it is a other area that will be

sharp... what i mean is that i can scan the same shot with 2 different focus setting and

match them in PS CS2, then i get a perfect shot... i tought it was newton ring

but i had the same problem with the regular film holder(no glass)...

 

and also, i can see a big difference in the nomber shown with the nikon focus scale... i test

a 4X5 cut to fit in both 120 film holders and got great result ( less flex)... i know what is a

newton ring and can see it under direct light before scaning (7 years experience on scaner

drum etc...) and 25 years as a photographer... last test were 2 scan of the same picture

with 2 different focus setting and than print (11X14)... both print shown great grain in 2

different area... my feeling is that the scaner is not well balance... the film holder do not

travel perfectly horizontal... and i have this client that did a couples of color scan... he

found that some area were sharp and some were not... so we scan a 120 with epson 4990

and the grain appear sharp all the way...

 

i will bring the nikon to the doctor...

secont exemple... a sharp detail of the grain... both exemple were unsharp to increase

details...<div></div>

the blur grain scan with FH-869G... the 2 exemple will be from the same scan but crop

from diferent places on the negatif... i feel like sale the house and get a imacon...<div></div>

can't get it all the way, can't get a even sharp 6X7 scan...

 

the grain is so sharp, but the negative is not flat enough, so the lost of sharp grain

shows...specially at 4000 dpi pint on a epson 9800 size 44X50 240dpi, it shows...

 

i scan with Nikon 9000ED use regular 120 holder and 120 antinewton glass holder FH

-869G... maybe i am not using the FH-869G correctly, is there web info about that

subject... for now get beter result using the regular 120 holdere... i

 

both holder i used shown non stable focus distances thru the 6X7 scans... i could see the

difference, working with the focus tool of Nikon or seeing it once import in photoshop...

 

thank you for help. martin