willem_leenen

The "color extravaganza" makes photo's pop out some more, and can add to some short-lived wow-effect, enough to last for the intended internet-browsing. If i got you right, you consider this colorcontrol as a comparative overused (& mis-used) tool in the design of a photo. I'm not sure if the distinction you make between un-real and surreal is usefull beyond the statement of individual taste. Or perhaps you mean that any artificial modification needs to be purposfully applied? But as long as people aim for 'succes', (and see an entry in TRP as such), this "playing with the rainbow" is appearantly a way to achieve this.

One of the characteristics of a nude is the timeless aspect of it. This property is gone when there are modern aspects depicted, such as tribal-tatoos, piercings, pubic shaving etc. Not to mention some other children of their time, like the very yellow thungstenglow ( popular in the 80ties) or the Hamilton softfocus ( the 'balerina's in the mist photo's ' from the 70ties).

But can we discard these photo's as 'denial of beauty'? That would be a matter of taste.

Nigel,

The short answer, IMHO, is Yes. A basic slave unit seems ok.

It seems to me that most interior shots where made with a mixture of thungsten, flash and daylight. I have no experience in this field, but looking at this photo i see the following elements:

(1) the gradient on the ceiling and the shadow of the ceilinglamp on the left corner indicates a small flash was used. It is small and rather close to the ceiling, leaving the shining table without hotspots.

(2) the slaveunit on the far corner of the table is responsible for the extra shadows ( eg the shadow of the lamp near the door, the shadow of the pillows on the curtain etc). It also created a hotspot in the curve of the sofa ( sorry, don't know the english word for this part of the sofa)

These shadows are a bit intrusive if you're going for a covershot, but it's ok for the lower echelons of photography ;-)

A better mix of the different lightsources ( here: longer exposuretime) may produce better results,

my 2 eurocents.

W.

An eloquent yet not allways coherent pamphlet from Karen Lehrman on

the development of fashionphotography - any reactions?

 

http://www.slate.com/features/010510_fashion-slide-show/01.htm

I completely agree with David M. A duoshoot is difficult, a nude shoot is difficult.... this combination is extra difficult. I never tried it, although I have a few years of studio experience. Without any research, without clear artistic idea's and without deep knowledge of lighting techniques you may hope that you won't be labelled GWC (guy with camera).

I have an EOS 300D with a kitlens and a 50mm F1.8. The first one is

generally considered bad, the second one as 'very good'. I made a

test were I made some pictures in raw-format, and tried to see if i

can see any difference between a kitlens at 50mm and the 50mm prime.

I've got to admit that i didn't see much difference. Perhaps the

aperture of F8 was within a sweet spot of the kitlens? Or is the

difference between a good and bad lens not so great? ( carefull, i

might put you to the test ;-) )

Correction on my previous post:

"a good 200mm f2.8 prime.(around $500)"

 

This must be : "a good 100mm f2.8 prime.(around $500)"

 

Regards,

Willem

Thank you for all the answers.

My advice too is: start cheap. Only when you feel the pain of the limitations of your lense, an extra purchase can be considered. You consider yourself 'a beginner', so the bottleneck will not be in your equipment for some time. ( Why this rant? I have seen many beginners who can't resist the fun of shopping and also think they need expensive equipment to make good photo's. And during photo-evaluations, I have never heard the remark: "a pity you didn't have a better lens for this photo" )

Off the soapbox now. Try to outgrow this first: the kitlens, the 50mm 1.8 (around $80) and a good 200mm f2.8 prime.(around $500)

@Tommy: $8,500 is the cheap way? Makes my curious what the expensive one is ;-)

 

@ Jim: Yes, flipping cards is what i do now. The feedback is usually 40 shots late ;-)

 

@ Giampi: If i understood the article correctly, the camera needs te be set at playback mode, effectively bringing the shoot to a halt. Hardly an improvement over the flipping of CF-cards.

Hello *,

I wondered if there is a cheap way of transmitting the photo's i take

on my EOS 300D to a hard drive, so my assistent can see immediately

results on a large monitor.