roy_kekewich

Jim, re. your second remark, GOOD ONE!

<p>

Okay, you set your aperture, press the Depth of Feild Preview button.

Now instead of looking through your WIDEST aperture, you are looking

through your SHOOTING aperture, the one you set.

<p>

When you close down, selecting an even smaller aperture, let's say you

set F/8, then you set F/16, it will of course LOOK darker because you

are looking through a smaller hole.

<p>

Give your eyes a chance to adjust to the reduced light, and, as Jim

said, you will then see how much of the scene will be in focus in your

shot.

<p>

Lenses on SLRs are constructed to make focusing and metering as easy

as possible by letting you look through the lens's widest aperture,

even though you may set a smaller one. This is called "wide open

metering and focussing". When you shoot, the aperture closes down to

the one you set. That is also what happens when you press the DEP

button.

<p>

Did we understand your question? Does that help?

Okay, so does that mean that the red beams emitted by my camera and

flash are near infra-red? Is there another part of the spectrum in

those beams? If not, then near infrared light is visible, while far

infrared is the stuff picked up by infrared film and made visible by

thermal cameras, though invisible to the eye. Is this right?

<p>

I've tried a lot of book and web sources to answer these ancillary

questions to no avail.

<p>

Any of our resident scientists out there to come to the rescue?

<p>

Thanks,

<p>

Roy

Thanks guys.

<p>

Regarding the AF emitter. When I use either the Elan's AF beam or the

one projected from the 380EX, a visible red beam with a

"striped pattern" is cast on the subject. If that is the near IR light

you refer to does that mean that near IR is within the visible light

spectrum, or is the IR just a component of the projected light beam?

<p>

By the way, both work really well. I did test shots with both of them

in blind darkness and the shots were in perfect focus and well exposed

as well, using full auto and Program modes.

I have the 380EX and the ElanIIe.

<p>

I was told when I bought the flash that the preflash was infrared, emanating from the AF assist beam "projector" on the front of the flash.

<p>

However, when the flash exposure lock (FEL) button is pressed a visible preflash is fired. I have read on our forum that the 430EZ has both infrared and white light preflashes depending on the tilt of the bouce head. No matter what position the 380EX flash head is in, straight on or tilted, the preflash is visible.

<p>

Is there an infrared component to the light? If so, what is its function?

<p>

Thanks

Tamron also offers extenders for Canon lenses : 1.4 x and 2x. Each

will reduce your effective maximum aperture; the former by one stop,

the latter by two.

<p>

I don't know about quality, except to say I'm very happy with my

Tamron 28 - 200mm lens.

With the Elan7e you'll get eye controlled focus horizontally AND

vertically, unlike the A2e. But what's perhaps really most signifgant

is that the Elan will give you Canon's most advanced autoflash system

to date (when used with EX series flashes):capability to synch flash

to your highest shutter speed, a flash version of exposure lock, ETTL

metering, etc.

<p>

Check out the links provided in the answers to my question:

<p>

420EX specs VS 550EX (Roy Kekewich)

<p>

to learn more about EX flashes. I have the ElanIIe and 380EX and

swear by them, esp. in the quality of mixed ambient/flash exposure.

Remarkable results. The most natural looking lighting in flash shots

I've ever seen. A Canon service mgr told me pros are claiming better

flash results with this (my camera/flash) combination than they get

with the 1N and 540EZ!

Dave's got some really organized, detailed and useful info on his

site. Highly recommended.

<p>

And thank you guys, for your responses!

Thanks to all for your responses. I'll keep in mind the potential

dangers as I try my 380EX in different ways.

Does anyone know the specifications of the new 420EX Speedlite?

I'm curious as to what is gained over the 380EX (which I have) and what is lost in comparison to the 550EX; for example: built-in slave, ratio control, E-TTL etc.

<p>

I searched our forum (found very little) and went to Canon's US site but to no avail. Thanks

Debbie,

<p>

I have the 380EX which I use on the ElanIIe. I am very pleased with

this flash. I don't know anything about the 220EX except that it's not

as powerful as the 380EX. However, one thing I have learned is that if

you are deciding between two flashes, it's always better to go with

the more advanced one if you can at all afford it. I did that

regarding the EX flashes you mentioned as well as the Vivitar flashes

I own and can see, in retrospect, that I would've quickly outgrown the

smaller, cheaper flash units. If you can afford the 420EX or 550EX

all the better. The more advanced flash will give you good results and

offer features you can "grow into" as you progress.

<p>

<p>

Your second question is probable referring to the Guide Number system.

A guide number is an expression of the power of the flash. I find an

understanding of the Guide Number system very useful. Using simple

formulas, you can determine the effective range (often called working

distance ) of your flash, determine what aperture to use in Manual

flash mode and so on.

<p>

It's not complicated, but keep in mind that your flash's power,as well

as your film speed, lens aperture and focal length ALL effect your

Guide Number--and therefore your calculations.

<p>

Check your flash manual for a guide number table. Be aware in ads and

brochures they are often overstated, by referring to the number at a

telephoto focal length.

<p>

Here's a website that offers several short clear explanations, along

with other info regarding flash:

<p>

http://www.chem.helsinki.fi/~toomas/photo/flash-faq.html

<p>

Good luck!

Roy

Thanks for the responses.

<p>

If I've got this right, and please correct me if I don't:

<p>

1. If I want to trigger my 380EX at full power, then it's safe to tape

over the four outside contacts, leaving just the center one exposed

(to trigger the flash), or use an old adapter that has only the center

contact. True?

<p>

2. If I want to disable the 380EX'x preflash and maintain TTL, then

ONLY (?) the Canon adapter can be used? (In this case I would be using

the 380EX as a slave flash trigger and/or trigger and fill light--

instead of using the Elan's built-in flash as I've been doing.)

PS My goal in using an adapter was to disable the ETTL preflash and

use the 380EX in TTL as a fill light and optical slave trigger. Since

the Canon adapter would provide this, but is expensive, I was looking

for a third party substitute. Does anyone know if there is such an

adapter on the market?

Thanks, Jim, for the above answer. I use the Elan's built-in flash,

instead of the 380EX, to trigger optical slaves. I'm also currently

testing it as fill light, as per your suggestion in an earlier

posting, using flash compensation.

<p>

Are there ANY types of adapters or procedures that can short out the

camera's circuits? Regarding procedures,I've read, on the forum, that

you can tape over the four contacts on the hot shoe, leaving just one

exposed, to trigger the 380EX at full power, but the advice said

"carefully" tape... What is the inherent danger in doing this?

Thank you.

Elsewhere on this forum I've read that to disable E-TTL on my ElanIIe in order to use slaved flashes (that are otherwise set off by E-TTL's preflash) a hot-shoe adapter can be used.

<p>

Having been quoted $120.00 Canadian (add 40% for US funds!) for the Canon TTL Hot Shoe Adapter 3, I'm considering a third party adapter.

<p>

Though I have read on the forum that this can be done, I have two questions:

<p>

1) Is there any danger to my Elan's or 380EX's circuitry in using a non-Canon hot shoe adapter? and

<p>

2) Can an old adapter be used? For example, I priced a used one--the information on the box said it was suitable for the (venerable)

Canon AE-1 among other models. Will an adapter of this vintage work safely?

<p>

Being principal working tools, I don't want to put the Elan or Speedlite at risk.

<p>

Thank you!

Whoops! In the first line I'm referring to the answer to my first

question. See: Light Ratios Using Two TTL Flashes.

<p>

Sorry.

Thanks for the above answer. I hate to say it but though I understand how zoom settings on the flash head or distance would determine aperture (and flash ratios) with flashes on Manual mode, I still don't grasp WHY DISTANCE WOULD EFFECT TTL FLASH.

<p>

Considering that flash output is measured OTF (off the flim) in TTL, why wouldn't, say, two 380EX flashes, both in contact with the camera via off-shoe cords or Ikelite Litelinks, both output according to the camera aperture AND METER READING OTF?

<p>

Any further explanation would be greatly appreciated.

<p>

Thank you

I have the same camera, the N.A. version, the ElanIIe.I think I know

what's happening,

why the depth of field function seems not to work.

<p>

Try this: Set your camera in Av Aperture Priority or M Manual

mode. Dial in your lens'

maximum aperture, the smallest number being the largest. For

example, on my Tamron

lens, the maximum aperture at 28mm is F4, at telephoto it's F5.6.

Now, try the function.

Nothing will happen because YOU ARE ALREADY LOOKING THROUGH THE

LENS AT ITS WIDEST APERTURE, being F4 at 28mm in my case. Now

change the

aperture to F8, f11, F16, or ANY (higher number) SMALLER

aperture. Now the view

darkens when you use the depth of field function BECAUSE THE LENS

HAS

CLOSED DOWN (called stopping down) TO YOUR SHOOTING APERTURE, the

one you set, and you're now looking through THAT aperture. You

see? Just let your eye

become adapted to the darker view and you will be able to see

what's in focus and

what's not.

<p>

Initially, before using the depth of feild feature, your camera

is enabling "wide open

fucussing and metering" by maintaining the widest aperture until

you release the shutter

when the lens will close down to the aperture you set.

<p>

I do a lot of low light and night photography and often check my

depth of feild to be sure

that the region I want to be in focus will indeed come out in my

photo in focus. Keep in

mind that depth of feild ("depth of what's in focus in the

picture", say from in front of a

person to behind that person) varies with focal length, distance

from the subject AND

aperture.

<p>

It's also useful for checking your range of focus when shooting

groups of people.

Regarding the eyepiece cover on your strap. Supposedly this

prevents light from entering

through the viewfinder and affecting the picture. Perhaps someone

else can explain that

one.

<p>

Feel free to email me if you need anything clarified.

<p>

-- Roy Kekewich (roykekewich@yahoo.com), September 30, 2000.

I have the same camera, the N.A. version, the ElanIIe.I think I know

what's happening, why the depth of field function seems not to work.

<p>

Try this: Set your camera in Av Aperture Priority or M Manual mode.

Dial in your lens' maximum aperture, the smallest number being the

largest. For example, on my Tamron lens, the maximum aperture at 28mm

is F4, at telephoto it's F5.6. Now, try the function. Nothing will

happen because YOU ARE ALREADY LOOKING THROUGH THE LENS AT ITS WIDEST

APERTURE, being F4 at 28mm in my case. Now change the aperture to F8,

f11, F16, or ANY (higher number) SMALLER aperture. Now the view

darkens when you use the depth of field function BECAUSE THE LENS HAS

CLOSED DOWN (called stopping down) TO YOUR SHOOTING APERTURE, the one

you set, and you're now looking through THAT aperture. You see? Just

let your eye become adapted to the darker view and you will be able to

see what's in focus and what's not.

<p>

Initially, before using the depth of feild feature, your camera is

enabling "wide open fucussing and metering" by maintaining the widest

aperture until you release the shutter when the lens will close down

to the aperture you set.

<p>

I do a lot of low light and night photography and often check my depth

of feild to be sure that the region I want to be in focus will indeed

come out in my photo in focus. Keep in mind that depth of feild

("depth of what's in focus in the picture", say from in front of a

person to behind that person) varies with focal length, distance from

the subject AND aperture.

<p>

It's also useful for checking your range of focus when shooting groups

of people.

Regarding the eyepiece cover on your strap. Supposedly this prevents

light from entering through the viewfinder and affecting the picture.

Perhaps someone else can explain that one.

<p>

Feel free to email me if you need anything clarified.

Thanks for the above answer. I hate to say it but though I understand

how zoom settings on the flash heads or distance would determine

aperture (and flash ratios) with flashes on Manual mode, I still dont'

grasp WHY DISTANCE WOULD EFFECT TTL FLASH.

<p>

Considering that flash output is measured OTF (off the flim) in TTL,

why wouldn't, say, two 380EX flashes, both in contact with the camera

via off-shoe cords or Ikelite Litelinks, both output according to the

camera aperture AND METER READING OTF?

<p>

Any further explanation would be greatly appreciated.

<p>

Thank you

The 2 setting provides a two-second delay before firing the camera.

L does stand for lock--it's the "off" position. And by the way, if

you use it with the camera set to "bulb", you don't have to hold the

button down to keep the shutter open. Press once to open the shutter

and a second time to end the exposure.

I've read, on this forum, that you can control the light ratio between two off-camera flashes that are in TTL or E-TTL mode by CHANGING THEIR RELATIVE DISTANCE FROM THE SUBJECT.

<p>

I've carefully re-read the posting but I'm not clear on why this works. Specifically: Why wouldn't each flash simply provide higher output, at a greater distance, according to your aperture?

<p>

I understand how this works using the Guide Number system with flashes set in Manual mode, but not in ttl / e-ttl.

<p>

Could someone kindly explain this?

<p>

Thanks

I do a lot of night photography. I carry a Maglite, wearing it on my

belt via the holster that's attached with a Velro-secured strap. I

made a simple addition to it for exactly the type of purpose you

mention.

<p>

Maglite's have a hole for a strap. I bought a short piece of waxed

cord from a street jeweller (the kind of thin black cord used for

necklaces etc.) and simply hang the Maglite, switched on, around my

neck. If the cord is the right length you can hold your camera

beneath the flashlight and see what you're doing. No need to turn it

off; the lamp is too weak to affect your exposures. The Maglite I use

takes two AA 1.5 batteries. There's an even smaller one for a

keychain.

<p>

It's also great for "drawing in the air" during long "bulb" exposures!

<p>

Roy

What are the equivalent model names of EOS bodies outside of North America. For example, I have the EOS ElanIIe-- is this the EOS50, 100 or what?

<p>

I would like to be able to correlate information on the forum to the 1N, 1V, Elan, A2 etc.

<p>

Thanks,

<p>

Roy Kekewich

Re. #$%^$&**& SPOT METERING LACKING

<p>

I have the Elan IIe on which I use a Tamron 28-200mm lens. Here's my

answer to the need for a true spot meter:

<p>

Considering Canon's AIM system, you are metering around the focusing

point of your choice. In partial mode, that's 9.5% of the area around

that focusing point. Now, at 200mm focal length, the Elan is "seeing"

an angle of view of 12 degrees.

<p>

Does it not follow then, that I am metering an area that is 9.5% of a

twelve degree angle of view, which would equate to a spot meter's

angle of acceptance of about one degree? (12 degrees times 9.5% = 1.14

degree).

<p>

Would love to know if I've got this one right or not!

<p>

Thanks,

<p>

Roy Kekewich