syed

<p>Just wondering how many other pictures he could have taken if he hadn't waited 40 years for that.</p>

<p>I am sure a lot of thin models would be envious of a well toned body, as well as the ability to pose while flying through the air.</p>

<p>If you don't need the latest and greatest, there is always the 28-70mm F2.8 (an anvil weight-wise) or even the 35-70 F2.8 (lighter, screwdriver push-pull zoom lens), which can be had for a bargain. I still use the latter, and got it back recently after a C&L. Still works like new after over a decade of use.</p>

<p>Post resizing, I use Unsharp Masking between 200-300% for Amount, 0.3-0.5 for Radius, and 0 for Threshold.</p>

<p>Agree. Compared to the mirror slap of a Nikon the 5D is actually pretty polite.</p>

<p>I don't think you've dumbed it down too much. You know what your needs are and you customize your camera to meet those needs. I do the same, although every once in a while I would discover something new in the manual (or a forum board such as this) and decide that I actually like a particular feature, such as shoot JPEG only (gasp!).</p>

<p>Thanks for the heads up. Fortunately for me it was just a case of copying whatever images I wanted to transfer in my gallery to a separate iTunes folder for synchronization. (On my C: drive as opposed to a separate USB drive where the originals reside.)</p>

<p>For casual digital prints I get good results from <a href="http://www.kodakgallery.co.uk">www.kodakgallery.co.uk</a>.</p>

<p>It also depends on how "light" the skin is. You may have to open up from anything between a stop to two stops. Bear in mind not all in camera spot meters have the same spot size, so make sure you are certain what the size is before taking a full reading. Good luck.</p>

<p>Get the 50mm 1.4. You wouldn't regret it. I think it's a great lens to have for shooting babies and kids indoors. Very, very sharp!</p>

<p>I use the Crumpler 7 Million Dollar bag. They look discrete, have great straps, and are very comfortable to carry (apart from the fact that Crumpler makes some of the best looking camera bags in the market today.) Sounds like the Crumpler Sheep Scarer might suit your needs.</p>

<p>I think your portfolio should focus on your strengths as a photographer. I don't think there are any hard and fast rules about what one should include in their portfolios, particularly at this stage. Limit your portfolio to your very best shots, the ones that are not only aesthetically pleasing, but technically accomplished as well. This means images with a good composition, interesting subject matter, great light, perfect exposure, and so forth. If you do have a lot of good images to choose from, it would be good to limit the portfolio to one or two themes of your choosing. These themes would reflect the kind of images that you enjoy taking and are comfortable showing to someone interested in your work. It could be "Street", or "Macro", or "Portraits", or any other genre. I don't know what the requirements are for your school but I would limit the number of images from 10-15 of your best work. All the best to you.</p>

<p>Shun's right regarding the CCD sensor in the D3000, which is essentially that from the D200. It gives you great, great results from ISO 100 to 400, but at ISO 800 you will have to start worrying about nailing the right exposure to minimize noise. That same CCD was never great at ISO 1600 to begin with, compared to, say the 12 megapixel CMOS used in the D300 or D90. That said the 3" LCD should be a step improvement from the D40.</p>

<p>For used equipment, I think ebay.co.uk would still be the best source, as long as you get one from a reputable seller. I scanned "EOS 40D body" and they are a couple selling for about GBP400-480ish. As previously mentioned a 50mm 1.8 would be a great addition to the kit given your budget of GBP550. You can also try your luck at the London Camera Exchange, situated at 98 The Strand, London WC2R 0AG.</p>

<p>For the shooting I do (outdoors street/nature), I find the "right" white balance incredibly boring. If you're shooting RAW the "as shot" white balance can be modified during post-processing. Using a white balance card will probably be more hassle than it's worth, and the D700 custom setting does not often work the way I want it to (sometimes results can be too cool even after calibrating with a white or grey surface). I prefer a somewhat warmer tone to my images and the D700 is almost permanently on Cloudy rather than Daylight.</p>

<p>Try using Preview Extractor<br>

<a rel="nofollow" href="http://drchung.new21.net/previewextractor/" target="_blank">http://drchung.new21.net/previewextractor/</a><br>

which has an option to check number of shutter activations.</p>

<p>I don't have the Tamron but can vote for the 35-70 which I use on a full frame body. Mine is the old non-D version, and has been a workhorse lens for me for that focal length range. Great sharpness, contrast, bokeh, and saturation. You can't fault the build quality; it's an all metal design with a convenient close focus "macro" mode at the 35mm end.<br>

Image quality-wise you will probably get good results with either the Tamron or the 35-70, but for sheer build quality the older Nikkors are simply great to have. I do still shoot with the old holy grail of 20-35, 35-70, and 80-200 (push pull version), no doubt some of the very best lenses Nikon has ever manufactured. Yes, sharpness-wise the new pro lenses put these to shame, but they get the job done day after day, year after year, without any issues.</p>

<p>Someone needs to give a camera to famous avantgarde artist Pierre Brassau.</p>

<p><a href="http://ecclesiastes911.net/story/pierre_brassau.html">http://ecclesiastes911.net/story/pierre_brassau.html</a></p>

<p>Same product for both. You can also download a trial copy from the Nikon website.</p>

<p>That would really depend on the store. I'm really referring to large outlets such as Best Buy. Their coverage would typically include accidental damage, such as spills on laptops and dropped items as in your case. If they can't fix it they would replace it. I am not sure if you can get one of those "after the fact" though.</p>

<p>Powershot SD1200IS, new for less than USD200. Shoot in full auto mode, set to ISO 400 and below, and teach them how to sharpen their compositional skills using the LCD. I wouldn't go into aspects such as aperture settings or shutter speeds just yet. I'm sure they'll have a lot of fun with it.</p>

<p>Most stores will exchange defective equipment but I doubt any would replace one which has been dropped accidentally. (Unless you've purchased one of those expensive "extended" warranties).</p>

<p>Try mpix.com.</p>

<p>Apart from the over and under exposure, no single tone dominates the picture. Imagine photographing a sliding gray scale from light to dark where each brightness level is equally probable.</p>

<p>I have no idea why you would want to use an ND filter in a theatre that is probably starved of light anyway. Did you shoot wide open with the 1.4? As for the blurry pictures it's most likely subject movement combined with a low shutter speed, even at ISO 1600. That theatre must have been quiet dimly lit!</p>