joe_austin1

<p>It seems there has been an opening of one lane at the Rocky Creek closure with alternating traffic.<br>

How about Nacimiento-Ferguson road through Fort Hunter Liggett as a means of exiting the coast road and continuing on Hwy101 on to Cambria? I understand that Nacimiento-Ferguson is paved and maintained, but the road net throught the fort looks confusing on google maps. Will I be able to navigate by road signs through the fort?</p>

<p>Arghhhh. I had heard of the closure back in March, but assumed it would be repaired promptly. What are the plans for opening rhe road? Does CA DoT put that info on the web?</p>

<p>I am heading for the Monterey, CA area in a couple of weeks for wildlife photography. So far I am planning to visit Moss Landing, Elkhorn slough, Monterey Wharf and aquarium as well as the coast highway down to San Simeon for Elephant Seals.<br /> <br /> I posted an inquiry a couple of years ago (a trip that never happened) and got some great advice that I am hoping to update. Any advice on current wildlife conditions/hotspots, or specific places to search out at Moss Landing or Elkhorn Slough would be appreciated.<br>

Thanks,<br>

Joe</p>

How would someone who is not familiar with the area, and has just pickup up their rental car and is ready to head south from Monterey, find out whether the coast road is open or closed ?

Thanks for all these great responses. I must admit the threat of road closures has me re-thinking the trip as a drive down the coast road was going to be a highlight.

 

Any recommendations on whale watching tours or floating tours of Elkhorn Slough? Are there any that are big lens friendly?

I have heard that there is a fence around the elephant seal colony at Piedras Blancas. Can one still get close enough to fill a 600mm frame, and low enough for a good angle?

Thanks for the responses. Are there other times of the year when the marine wildlife populations are strong, but the weather is better? Maybe November?

I am considering a trip to the California coast (San Simeon to Elkhorn Slough) for marine wildlife and birds. I

had originally selected January as the month to visit as that seems to be the peak time for elephant seals. It

also seems to be the peak time for rain.

 

I would appreciate any suggestions, comments, from folks familiar with this area about the wildlife photo

opportunities and the weather at that time of year. I am traveling from Maryland and am wondering if a typical

January week in Big Sure would yield enough good weather to make it worthwhile.

 

Thanks,

Joe.

Well, a diffuser screen always works. You can hand hold it if the camera is on a tripod.

 

My quick and dirty method for diffusing a flash is to use a rubber band to put a white tissue over the head of the flash.

I am interested in a winter visit to Yellowstone and have a couple questions...

 

Can anyone recommend a few outfits that will take small private parties into the park via snowcoach (not pro-guided photo tours, just outfitters that will rent you a coach and driver) ?

 

How much wildlife photography can you do if you remain only on the Gardiner-Cooke City road?

 

What is the best route from Gardiner to Jackson that is open to autos year round?

What are the wildlife opportunities at these locations?

I'll be in Los Angeles in Feb on business and would like to take a

week or so for photography in the region.

 

Are there any good wildlife spots in the area?

 

I am aware of the San Diego zoo and wildlife parks, but would be more

interested in public parks, wildlife reserves, or such areas.

I read the article and couldn't help noting an element of bitterness. Particularly in his characterization of the amateurs who are competing in the pro market not as talented amateurs but as 'monied amateurs'.

 

It sounds as though Mr. Benvie does not agree with the old adage that it's the photographer and not the gear. Either that or the 'monied amateurs' are submitting financial statmements along with their images.

I took a tour with Freds a couple of years ago. I met him in the parking lot and he did seem quite knowledgable (when I asked his price he asked me the brand of my gear ...;-) )

 

Buuuuut, when time came to go I found out Fred was going with another group and I wound up with a young fellow who was obviously new to the business. Nice kid , but he didn't say much. If you want to go with Fred make sure you make that clear.

I was confused by this a few months ago when I bought my 600IS. Canon confirmed what Chris has told you... the manual is in error. On the big tele's IS has automatic tripod detection to prevent drift.

Keeping in mind that these extenders are designed for use with 300mm lenses or longer (because of limited coverage), I always leave my flash on auto zoom. Of course that means it will settle at 105mm with telephoto lenses. I seem to remember reading somewhere that 50-85mm is the optimal zoom setting for a flash with an extender , but I have never worried about it. There is no lens length limit, anything longer than a 300mm will fit within the coverage if the flash is aimed properly.

I have been using the EOS3 with the BP-E2 and NIMH batteries

(1550mah) and they have been working fine. I don't get anything like

the published number of rolls from a set , but I don't get them with

lithium batts either.

I ordered an EOS3 and three 'L' lenses back in March. Out of the

order I had to return the EOS3 for a defective flash exposure

compensation level indicator and a 300f4 lens due to a spasmatic

condition that prevented it from autofocusing properly. I was rather

surprised.

I'll second the motion for Joe McDonalds book "The Complete Guide to Wildlife Photography". It is an excellent resource for exposure, particularly regarding the use of flash in wildlife photography.

The critical issue here is exactly what the meter is taking a reading on. If your meter is reading the bears coat it will try to turn it 18% grey and you will need to dial in - compensation to turn the coat dark again. If the meter is on a medium tone to evaluate the ambient light, then the bear may come out too dark and + compensation will be needed to bring up detail in the coat.

I have been pursuing the same goal with the same equipment you have. If you are in open field 400mm will seem short but in woodlands it should be plenty. The best thing I have done is to go out immediately after a fresh snow ( if possible ) and look for sign. The tracks are all over and show you the most travelled paths.

 

Smell is important, if I can keep the little guys from smelling me they will come very close ( I don't use a blind but I do use camo). Make sure you sit against a bush or tree to keep your silhouette broken up. For you, staying downwind is an advantage but keep in mind an experienced fox likes to travel into the wind.

 

Also, if you are set up on a pathway rather than a den, keep your act ready to go. A fox is not a browser, he travels with determination and won't linger long in lens range.

 

If you find a den, don't press to hard or too often or she might abandon it (females usually dig more than one den for pups anyway).

As far as camo I would say none is necessary , but it all helps. I have had two successfull strategies when going after whitetail in an area where they are wary of humans. With the first I find a spot that I know has, or looks likely for, deer traffic. Then in full camo with a thin camo netting (Walmart) draped over me and the camera, I find a spot that overlooks the area and backs up to a tree or bush. The camo clothing helps break up your form within the thin netting and the netting helps to hide the small movements you need to make when shooting.

 

The second strategy involves stalking (move slowly, keep the tripod in front of you, move only when the deer drop their head to feed, etc.) but it only works when you are moving through the trees in dim light and the deer are in a field. It also helps if there is a slight breeze blowing so the leaves rustling will hide the sound of an errant step. You can advance to the wood edge with a reasonable chance of not being detected. I have used this technique to advance within 30 yards of deer with no camo.

 

Once in position behind your tripod amongst a stand of small trees the deer may see you or hear your camera but will have a difficult time determining what you are as long as you remain still. While shooting from this position I have had deer advance to within 15-20 yards or so while trying to investigate me, but after 5-10 minutes of looking me over and trying to elicit a reaction from me (they dip their heads as if pretending to eat and then look up quickly to see if they can catch you moving) they returned to browsing.

 

This is what has worked for me , of course whitetails who are wary of people are not an easy subject and I've also come back empty handed from a whitetail session on more than one occasion too.

One trail that I would avoid in the dark is the primitive loop trail that extends out of Devils Garden. It is 4 miles and requires negotiating the spine of a sandstone fin as well as some sloping rock faces while following cairns. Otherwise, I think you could find plenty to photograph in Arches after just a short, safe hike with a flashlight.

I haven't used Astia so I can't compare your films but as far as metering I would probably want to spot meter on the baby and then close down one stop (maybe 1-1/2).

 

Your flash will be fine at 80mm zoom you will just have some wasted flash coverage. A teleflash extender will concentrate your flash even more , doubling your range.

I have been using a blend of sunny 16, spot metering middle tones or spot metering a solid area and then over or under exposing the value according to the tone I want it to be. For the most part I have been pleased with my exposure.

 

Joe